Scgorg

Reading has slowly been taking less and less of my time but I've forced myself to do some because I always enjoy it once I actually pick up a book. Decided to reread what is one of my favorite books of all time; I am pilgrim by Terry Hayes. It is a spy-thriller with a lot of tense moments and a very straightforward but engaging story. I've always been told I have an odd taste in entertainment but this book just really does it for me. Other than that I just finished reading Busemannen (the boogeyman) by Knut Nærum. I have no idea if that one was ever translated to English, but for anyone here who is Norwegian/Swedish/Danish I highly recommend it. It's best described as a parody of the thriller genre.

You know, even if it ends up being an "epic fail" as you describe it, you still seem to have made a product where you account for everything (within reasonability). The product does not appear rushed, you are not price gouging etc. You've used a lot of time and knowledge in making the product a reality, so I feel confident that EVEN IF the product is bad you will still use it as a stepping stone for making even greater products in the future. Making a bad product isn't an issue, never making a better one is Just some encouraging words from someone who is very much looking forward to the headphone, and who will most likely buy one regardless of what consensus ends up being.

MSI recently branched into general consumer laptops I believe. I think it's hard to go wrong with Lenovo these days. They make rather durable machines and have had excellent support every time I've dealt with them. This is of course purely anecdotal, but I handle my fair share of Lenovo machines through work (mostly x2X0 series laptops). The only Yogas I've dealt with is the L380 which appears to be an excellent machine.

So, I've been sitting here for a while with the SR-009S on my head and my thoughts are somewhat mixed... I borrowed a friends SR-507 the past few weeks, so my ears have been "tuned" to that sound. Needless to say 009S is monumentally better than whatever the fuck they did there. Pads are a little uneven, the seam matches but the oval inside of the pad is tilted maybe 10-15 degrees different between the pads, odd. It sounds pretty nice and even all the way down to 100-ish hz, at which point the bass just drops like 5dB??? It extends well but no matter how bass heavy the music it just sounds like elevator music behind what is actually playing. When spritzer said bass suckout I expected this to be relative to the 007, but no, this is just plain bass light. Clearly a notch below even DF neutral... So, I noticed the baker said he wanted to try different pads. Did it bear any fruits or is the bass unsalvagable? Worst case I'll just EQ it... I'm sure a better amp will help at least a little but my KGSSHV is out of comission for the time being And I don't think even a carbon would make up for the suckout, although I'm not one that hears very large difference between amps.

From joy to despair real quick. After about 30 hours of use the 450V KGSSHV right channel blew up. 3 resistors (25 ohm, 2x 180 ohm, don't have the schematic currently) blew the first time, with the 25 ohm sustaining the most damage. I tried swapping the resistors at which point only the 25 ohm and one of the 180 ohm resistors blew. This time I actually caught it with my own eyes. Sparks flew and the two resistors literally caught fire in the 2 seconds it was on. The board burnt so badly that the metal that the solder fuses with is gone on one of the holes of the 25 ohm resistor. I also noted a slight burnt resistor smell while the amp was in use while working, but wasn't alarmed because A. it worked and B. I had no idea how burnt resistors smell before now. Guess it''s a learning experience :l. My first thought was a short, but I can't see how the amplifier would work for 30 hours before blowing up the first time in that case. At this point I might just have to abandon ship on the board because it's impossible to solder the 25 ohm resistor due to how burnt the board is. But I am open to suggestions on things that you believe it could be. Thanks to anyone reading.

What is the bias tolerance like in pro bias Stax? 580 is of course optimal, but how about 560? 600? I know it will only change the volume level of the headphone, but in terms of arcing/damage to the diaphragm, where are the limits? 1KV? Edit: realized I had a brain fart and that this question is ridiculous...

I think spritzer is referring to the fact that the XLR connector is female to male to avoid people plugging it into normal amplifiers, in which case they would short.

Excuse the crap picture, but I finally finished my KGSSHV after way too much procrastination. It is running just fine and I managed to avoid any and all magic smoke to the surprise of myself. The wiring and general layout is still a little rough but I'll fix it up some other time. Big thanks to Kevin for the great design and to Birgir for boards/transfomer/some other parts as well as being very helpful along the way. Also a huge thanks to @gepardcv who helped me out with a lot of resources to get started and was just an great guy all in all. I would write something about how great it sounds, but alas I do not have any pro bias stax here at the moment, so that will have to wait. Cheers.

Wait, you own an SR-1, are you the guy with the "MrTechAgent" youtube channel? I've quite enjoyed some of your videos on vintage cans if that is the case.

This guy also uploaded a manifesto saying he was inspired by Anders Behring Breivik and his terror attack in 2011, planned for years apparently. Absolute piece of shit.

Add me up for mini T2 as well please

So, I just received a Stax SR-X MK3 normal bias today which is in absolutely immaculate condition. It's at least 40 years old at this point but for all I know it could have been opened a week ago. It also sounds really, really good to my ears considering the very low price I paid for them, easily beating out anything I've heard at sub 600-700 dollars. I've seen that the pro bias version of these is apparently all the rage, how do they differ, sound wise?

Interested depending on cost Edit: If there will be runs for GRHV and GRLV as well then I am definitely in for a set.

I want to convert a 580v DC bias to a 230v DC bias for so I can use both modern and older stax phones off my amp. Would a simple voltage divider do the trick or would I need to be careful about something else? The plan is to just tap of the pro bias outputs L/R and then use a voltage divider to get correct bias.

Out of curiosity, where is the dust cover of the 007 located? In the modern lambdas I can see it from the outside (the thin plastic outside of the stator, right?) but I don't see it on 007 even when zooming in on the pictures @spritzer took of port modding 007. Does it just not have dust covers?

Basically yes, the front volume is the part of the driver enclosure that is sealed to your head.

Porting the front volume of a headphone shifts the bass response upwards, more midbass less subbass. The extent to which it is affected depends on port size. As for what is being vented you have the front volume (facing your ear) and the back volume (facing outwards). For the sake of bass extension only the front volume needs to be closed, which is why open headphones can have good bass extension, in other words the back of the drivers are completely "open" as you state it but the front of the driver is sealed to your head with the pads. I can't answer your question about the 507 pads, but I'm sure someone else can chime in/have experience. Personally I would not vent the front volume, 507 pads seem like a much better bet.

Looking for PCB terminals (soldered on and with screws for wire) for my KGSSHV. Pin spacing is 5mm. Can't find anything rated for high voltages, everything seems to be 150/250V.

Looking at Danish trustpilot they seem to be legitimate. I believe I know people who have ordered from their Norwegian branch and got their products as advertised. If we assume their feedback on trustpilot is legitimate then the only thing a few people have been complaining about is somewhat slow delivery. Take it all with a grain of salt of course, I have no first hand experience with them, but they do have a physical store it seems. Edit: Veterans on a Norwegian Hifi-forum attest to the store's credibility, I'm inclined to believe it is real.

Calling it a review is probably a stretch, advertisement is probably closer to the truth.

Currently sourcing parts for a KGSSHV, using a BOM I got from spritzer (don't know who made it). Have been able to find most stuff, my main problem is the 130V zener (625-Z4KE130-E3 on mouser), the 3N254-E4/51 (currently EOL and minimum order of 120, which is more than I'll need in a lifetime probably), and the 1000pf/1000V cap. I found the 562R10TSD10 as a possible replacement for the cap, would that one be fine? For the 2 others I can't find anything that looks like a good replacement. Any help is appreciated.

Today I found out that my watermelon head does not fit in the l300 headband, the headband is simply not wide enough. I know the l700 headband is generally larger but how much wider is it? I really like how the headphone sounds but good grief is the headband a pain.

Thank you very much, both of you! Looks like I'll end up as the owner of some L300L's

I've been able to find a pair of L300L's for a good price and I am very tempted to buy it, but looking at measurements of the most recent lambda series it seems that they all roll off to some extent in the bass. Another comment I found said that this was due to the new pads mounting mechanism which makes the headphone ported/unsealed by default, I can't attest to this comment's legitimacy, but it left me with some questions. 1: Do the L300/500/700/300L roll off in the bass with stock pads? 2: If they do, and if this is indeed due to the new pads, would using the adhesive attached 507 pads work for creating the proper seal? 3: Others say that the lambda series only rolls off with improper seal. If so, is there any trick to creating a good seal on your head? It's crazy hard to find any information about stax headphones that is actually consistent, but you stax aficionados are probably the best bet.

Do you have a target price for it yet?