August 18, 201411 yr Thanks! I think I'm going to attempt a 20V (21V) build and try to use the same PS from the KSA5. The boards are small enough I think it will package well. Which resistors get changed out?on +-15V power supplies it will do about 30vpp balanced on +/-20v power supplies it will do about 40vpp balanced on +/-15v power supplies its 200ma per channel. would need to adjust the bias resistors to reduce the current for 20v. works out to at least 2.5 watts rms pure class A into 50 ohms
August 18, 201411 yr http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgdynalobalssproduction.pdf r38 and r39 on my version its 255 ohms i think 200 ohms should be about right for 20V
August 18, 201411 yr Thanks!http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgdynalobalssproduction.pdf r38 and r39 on my version its 255 ohms i think 200 ohms should be about right for 20V
August 19, 201411 yr I was thinking three output jacks, one balanced and two SE. The board will always output balanced regardless of the input. Not really intended for SE but you could just leave the - leg not connected for SE.
August 20, 201411 yr On my Rotel RCD991, in implementing the discrete I/V stage, I had thought about the SE to BAL conversion, since it is single-ended to the output, where it is converted to balanced via an opamp. Per Filburt's recommendation, I had switched this out to a heavily bypassed AD8599 or something like that. I read with interest the input stage on this amp, doing SE->BAL conversion using the THAT340. Do you think that doing a small PCB to implement this would be an improvement over the opamp? I wanted to preserve a) the output muting relays, and 'b) the balanced output. Even though I don't currently use them, I would like to keep them implemented for resale value and more importantly to preserve the output quality in SE mode. The cetoole I/V stage I have built up has dc servos. Would the THAT340 implementation be pretty much 0V DC offset, or does that depend upon it being inside the servo loop? Edited August 20, 201411 yr by Pars
August 20, 201411 yr The way the servo's is currently done results in +/-1.5mv of dc output. If what you want to do is the se to bal conversion you want the specifically designed thing i did instead of this. And build it with fets to keep a high impedance.
August 21, 201411 yr What I want to do is do the SE->BAL conversion with the minimum sonic impact on the SE signal (and the BAL obviously, but I don't use balanced currently). What is this specifically designed thing BTW? I've probably seen it at some point, but I'm getting older...
August 21, 201411 yr There are a number of parts to the complete preamp/everything solution. One is this http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/baseboardbal3.jpg (low res for now) Which is the balanced input switch board. For unbalanced you use the neutrik rca to xlr converters. Next is the unbalanced/balanced to balanced converter http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/ubaltobal2.jpg although there is a new rev of this board. you build it with the jfets because the that340 has significant bias currents. Now here is the thing about this part, its completely NO feedback ultra low distortion (<.001%) extremely fast, and gain is controllable by one resistor. (very similar to ayre kx-r only lower distortion and otherwise better) Next is the smt step attenuator http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/attenuator5.jpg 256 steps, .5 db per step, two for balanced which includes a balance control http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/ssdynalobal.jpg Finally is the multiamp as the output board, and also unbal/bal headphone board All the pieces put together comprise a seriously kickass preamp/headphone thing. Verified recently with amb/linuxworks lcduino and standard code. i made a change in the input board to get this to happen. But i really want a production version with touchscreen, and wifi so if anyone wants to step up and help... use any or all of the pieces seperately as needed its sweet i tell ya Edited August 21, 201411 yr by kevin gilmore
August 21, 201411 yr Seems like a great project! Do the input board and the attenuator work with the TI PCF8574 or only the NXP will do like the AMB version? NXP discontinued the PDIP-16 version some time ago...
August 21, 201411 yr edit: all of my chips are ti made A versions work fine Edited August 21, 201411 yr by kevin gilmore
August 21, 201411 yr If no one else wants to do it (someone please do!), I could start looking into the microcontroller stuff in a couple weeks. Anyone want to sell me a pair of KG attenuator boards for testing, either populated or unpopulated? Also is 3.2" touchscreen big enough?
August 22, 201411 yr I have a bunch too that I could probably dig out when I get home if that doesn't work. Edited August 22, 201411 yr by cetoole
August 22, 201411 yr Next is the unbalanced/balanced to balanced converterhttp://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/ubaltobal2.jpg although there is a new rev of this board. you build it with the jfets because the that340 has significant bias currents. Now here is the thing about this part, its completely NO feedback ultra low distortion (<.001%) extremely fast, and gain is controllable by one resistor. (very similar to ayre kx-r only lower distortion and otherwise better) So you build it up with the 2 P-ch and 2 N-ch around the 14-pin chip (which I assume is where the THAT340 would go)? Also, this appears to be a mono board? I'll look thru this thread as I assume there are schematics somewhere. About what is the physical size of the PCB? Thanks. Edited August 22, 201411 yr by Pars
August 22, 201411 yr there is a picture of the ubaltobal board with the jfets. will post board size later
August 22, 201411 yr For headamp operation, is it recommended to put a relay delay on the output or is it stable enough during startup to not need that?
August 22, 201411 yr here is the ubaltobal board with the fets http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/dsc_0597.jpg you can do the same thing with the fets to the multiamp and then you can have a higher input impedance and you can do the same thing to the ss dynahi. Now that the fets are available thru diyaudio in small quantities, this is an option again. the boards are 5.47 x 3.02 inches to get it much smaller everything would (and could be) surface mount but the multiamp does do about 3 watts pure class A and the output transistors dissipate a total of 4 watts, so if smt they would have to be heatsinked I tested turnon/turnoff thump and there just is not any Edited August 22, 201411 yr by kevin gilmore
August 23, 201411 yr I'm almost done with my Mouser BOM and have a couple questions. I notice in the schematic and the silkscreen file C2 and C5 are 5pf but in the photo you've used 10. I'm assuming the board was an earlier build and the latest is 5pf in the posted files. I plan to use Cornell Dubilier micas there: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=CD17CD050DO3virtualkey59850000virtualkey598-CD17CD050DO3 I'm also looking for what type of caps to use for the .1uf and 1uf units surrounding the servo.....looks like MLCC or maybe a tantalum for the 1uf? Thanks in advance. this is the production versionhttp://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/ssdynalobal.jpg Edited August 23, 201411 yr by GrindingThud
August 24, 201411 yr For the dynahi build I'm doing I'm basing BOM off the silkscreen as I think that detail takes precedent. Also in re to the 0.1 uf caps I went with ceramic disc type based on other BOMs I've seen for KG amps. MLCC type is probably fine though as I've seen that specd before too. Can't remember what I specd for the 1uf...
August 25, 201411 yr sometimes mouser is out of stock on some caps, so I switch to in stock items. very little real difference between ceramic and mlcc
August 25, 201411 yr I have a bunch too that I could probably dig out when I get home if that doesn't work. Thanks anyway, Colin! Kerry just hand delivered a pair of boards to me, what a super nice guy. Now I have attenuator boards and Multi Amp boards, and can breadboard the SE to bal converter. I have an idea of what microprocessor kit to use, and will probably stick to the 4D systems touchscreen that Max had some success with. The funny thing about all this is, I have no need for a preamp since I don't have any speakers.
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