any new info on your super kgst birgir?

Edited January 8, 201511 yr by nopants

Nope, busy building these... 

 

 

Finishing up the last of my old BH stuff.  The black one is running in now. 

Looks great, I'm getting started on mine How are you attaching those rings? Adhesive?

Adhesive would be very much in the vein of Single Power so I use screws. 

singlepower would have used super glue.

 

just like he did on all of those blackgate caps

Let's try to  be positive- custom, proprietary dampening compound

The Russian Blue Hawaii (FluxLab) uses a lot of adhesive which tends to get not so adhesive when it warms up.  Top tip, glue and a 200W space heater doesn't mix. 

 

Funny enough that BH and it's sister amp run pretty cool for the breed.  Much cooler than the BHSE for instance. 

this reminds me, do you add any decoupling to the bh hv rails? I noticed there are no spots on the amplifier board. I have some Russian caps lying around that I can duct tape and paper clip into the mix

That reminds me too much Single Power so don't do that...     No caps on these but then again the PSU is 10mm from the amp boards. 

Rookie here.  Have been lurking and read through this thread and a few others.  

 

This amp is waaaaaay sexy.  I dont personally have the skill to build one...I'm an oaf with electronics as can be judged on the work I do on my race car...far more mechanically inclined.  

 

I want one bad and have a kind and skilled gent building one so I don't kill myself or my e-stats.  Tail wagging...

 

HS 

That reminds me too much Single Power so don't do that...     No caps on these but then again the PSU is 10mm from the amp boards. 

I'm thinking about making mine a 2 box affair with the kgsshv supply. Maybe I'll use those terminal block spots for caps instead and mount said caps/terminal blocks on a some perfboard

I wouldn't use the KGSSHV psu as it just doesn't like that load.  No mods possible with that PSU board which is why we are slowly working on a new one. 

Posting a FYI to those new to tubes.

It helps SQ to clean the oxidation off of the pins. I use a stainless steel Dremel wheel and automotive Mass Air Flow cleaner (or 99% IPA) with Q tips to finish. Do not follow up with any audio fool stuff like Pro Gold, etc. Most cannot stand the heat and self destruct to a messy gooey crap that is near impossible to clean out of the socket later.

Edit: this is for unplated pins like all 6S4As used with the KGST.

Edited January 11, 201511 yr by Laowei

I use Mr. Clean Magic eraser - just shove the pins into it a few times.  Also works well for cleaning off cartridge tips for those retrogrades among us who still listen to LPS.

^ Great tip. Works well.

Anyone have boards for this they want to sell me?

Hey Andy, I have two but likely will only ever need one. Drop me a line.

I have one channel that I can donate, an extra from bay area circuits

The input of the kgst is very sensitive. I can only use 25% of the volumepot to get deafening sound. Is it possible to attenuate before the volumepot? The pot is a 10k alps (4 gang)

The gain on the KGST is the same as on all the other 'stat amps we've done.  Volume pot impedance doesn't matter so how much voltage are you feeding it? 

The DAC is a Schiit Gungnir.According the specs it is maximum output XLR 4.0V RMS

Which is insanely high, but lots of dac's are doing that these days.

You need a 10db balanced pad on the input.

Thanks, but how can this be done with an XLR input?

buy the neutrik xlr-male to xlr-female adapters and pick your attenuation

and use either 3 or 4 resistors depending on whether the dac is really balanced or not.

 

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Neutrik/NA3FM/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV9y0EyfHsAgRI%2fcUCPoRaKI%3d

Thank you for the reply. I did not see how this adapter works.The DAC is fully balanced. Would it not be easier to solder some resistors at the input connector of the amp? The only problem is I am not sure about the values of these resistors.