January 12, 201016 yr That looks very, very nice =D How are you planing on mounting them to the front panels? Blind holes on the mounting side?
January 13, 201016 yr is this g code? or is there a special way to do step and repeat? I was trying to get cute. (meaning lazy...) I got it right on the 3rd try. Anyway http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxjack4.jpg I could make it bigger, and keep the rest of it the same size, but i'm not sure why i would want to. Then if someone really did want to put in a he90 jack, they would have to make a sleeve. As far as mounting them, i really was planning on thru holes. But i'll try some blind holes on test aluminum first to see if i like how much bite there is going to be. It would definitely look cooler to have blind holes. So far i have managed not to have any blind holes. The price is still going to be ugly unless luvdunhill comes thru with the pins on the cheap. Its really only about $5 in teflon per jack, plus machining time. Plus $19 for the octal socket to steal the pins from. It does not matter, i want it perfect.
January 13, 201016 yr Yeah blind holes would look significantly better (not to sound shallow at all). Four holes 1mm or slightly less from the front surface would probably give enough length. The new one looks very nice =)
January 13, 201016 yr replication is a thing of beauty... http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxjack5.jpg 12 minutes of machine time per jack. Extra holes added specifically for luvdunhill
January 13, 201016 yr Ooh, very nice! I presume that since the tension on the pins seems to be inherent to their design, there is no need to worry about cold flow in the teflon?
January 13, 201016 yr Right now machines like the hurco and fadal can be had used with full warranty for something like 20% of retail. So many companies going out of business due to the economy, that there is a huge glut of these things. You can actually get stuff like this that will fit in a standard garage, and run on single phase for about $7k with a full set of tool holders for the tool bank and a number of different hold down bars and a massive vise or two. Then just add software, and any trained monkey can do this. I wonder if my friend in skokie is trainable?
January 14, 201016 yr Yikes that's cheaper than I thought... Now I need to find a bigger garage. I don't think software comes in milspec red
January 14, 201016 yr featurecam, solidworks, or captiva is what you are looking for. There are certainly lots of others. Some software is CAD only, like autocad, some software is CAM only. Featurecam is both. And made especially easy because it sucks in many 3D formats, for the ultimate in quick and brain dead. Make sure that you pick software that already has a post-processor for the machine you are going to acquire. Even a shitty post-processor can make a big difference in how long it takes to actually make something.
January 14, 201016 yr As far as mounting them, i really was planning on thru holes. But i'll try some blind holes on test aluminum first to see if i like how much bite there is going to be. It would definitely look cooler to have blind holes. So far i have managed not to have any blind holes. Kevin, Marc designed some faceplates for my Beta22/Sigma22 that have blind holes in 4mm aluminum, and they have plenty of bite. They look so clean that I'm really glad he did them that way.
January 14, 201016 yr Kevin, Marc designed some faceplates for my Beta22/Sigma22 that have blind holes in 4mm aluminum, and they have plenty of bite. They look so clean that I'm really glad he did them that way. Working on it! Really... Wanted the front panel by tomorrow, but i'm just too tired. (burning the candle at both ends on a newly funded 5.6M$ NIH grant) (5 years of programming all in about 3 weeks ) (there seem to be a few minor bugs)
January 15, 201016 yr ultra high quality mil-spec shaft coupler available from RSA for $35. Same as in the stealth. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/rk50shaft.jpg Also available from mouser for $1.92 plus about 30 seconds in my lathe in my basement. Non-magnetic oxygen free brass, chrome plated. Now the lunatic master machinist suggested i precision machine the holes for the stax jack mounting screws, then insert machined and threaded pins with a drop of super glue. So i will be blind hole tapping for 4-40, as i believe that will be sufficient. Also shown the tulip pins from marc.
January 15, 201016 yr The pins I sent Kevin are slightly different shape from the ones I previously had. From head on, they look slightly less substantial and you'd think they would have less force on the pins. However, I have a feeling this is aesthetic only, as I cannot tell the difference in a controlled double-blind test I told Kevin I'd be glad to source these for everyone. I have a family member that can pick them up and mail them to me at a pretty reasonable cost, if I'm not able to supply them from my current stash. I can also get a quote on the 9-pin sockets, and 8-pin sockets.
January 15, 201016 yr Author Please get a quote on the sockets for us. The socket you sent me requires next to no force while plugging in the cable so nothing to complain about there. Ohh and I do have one of those items you were asking me about earlier.
January 17, 201016 yr So some people are picking on me for what they seem to believe is my lack of ability to use a camera. Yes there really are differences between quickpics done at night handheld with a flash, and waiting for the sun to show up. ok, so here is the original http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxjack3.jpg and here is the same thing with daylight, f32 6 seconds exposure due to the lens, everything is out of focus. I tried, but this was the best picture i could get. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxjack3f32.jpg and here is the same thing f16 3 seconds this is probably the best this lens can do. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxjack3f16.jpg and here is the same thing f8 about 1.5 seconds http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxjack3f8.jpg Mounted on a 50 lb tripod, camera completely secured, RF remote trigger focus set once. Notice the picture shift with f-stop. That is NOT the camera moving. Of course none of these could be done handheld. So in the future you will continue to see quickpics due to me being a lazy fart until the thing is done, then the pictures will be perfect. Its the sound... stupid
January 17, 201016 yr So some people are picking on me for what they seem to believe is my lack of ability to use a camera. Yes there really are differences between quickpics done at night handheld with a flash, and waiting for the sun to show up. ok, so here is the original http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxjack3.jpg and here is the same thing with daylight, f32 6 seconds exposure due to the lens, everything is out of focus. I tried, but this was the best picture i could get. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxjack3f32.jpg and here is the same thing f16 3 seconds this is probably the best this lens can do. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxjack3f16.jpg and here is the same thing f8 about 1.5 seconds http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxjack3f8.jpg Mounted on a 50 lb tripod, camera completely secured, RF remote trigger focus set once. Notice the picture shift with f-stop. That is NOT the camera moving. Of course none of these could be done handheld. So in the future you will continue to see quickpics due to me being a lazy fart until the thing is done, then the pictures will be perfect. Its the sound... stupid Kinda sensitive aint'cha...
January 17, 201016 yr Kinda sensitive aint'cha... Nope But if the camera had a 64000 iso with the same noise levels things would be easier.
January 17, 201016 yr I can also get a quote on the 9-pin sockets, and 8-pin sockets. Please get a quote on the sockets for us. I'm with Birgir, for at least enough to build this. So some people are picking on me for what they seem to believe is my lack of ability to use a camera. Yes there really are differences between quickpics done at night handheld with a flash, and waiting for the sun to show up. ok, so here is the original http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxjack3.jpg and here is the same thing with daylight, f32 6 seconds exposure due to the lens, everything is out of focus. I tried, but this was the best picture i could get. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxjack3f32.jpg and here is the same thing f16 3 seconds this is probably the best this lens can do. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxjack3f16.jpg and here is the same thing f8 about 1.5 seconds http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxjack3f8.jpg Mounted on a 50 lb tripod, camera completely secured, RF remote trigger focus set once. Notice the picture shift with f-stop. That is NOT the camera moving. Of course none of these could be done handheld. So in the future you will continue to see quickpics due to me being a lazy fart until the thing is done, then the pictures will be perfect. Its the sound... stupid Who on earth could possibly find fault with your large detailed pics? I like the first one(the original) best.
January 17, 201016 yr everyone is a critic. OK, now on to what will probably be pages and pages of discussion on the most important aspect of the amplifier. The KNOB. (pronounced 'KaNOBB") So i've been playing with the delrin shaft on the panel bearing, and it acts just like the real T2. Which is to say, it binds and generally sucks. So its blind hole time again. Since i don't want any visible setscrew holes, i think its best to machine the knob as one piece with a .875 shaft, and then the panel bearing will work perfect. Now on to the discussion of the diameter and thickness of the knob. If i exactly center it, which i now think i'm going to do, the diameter can be as big as 2.9525 inches. But i think that is a bit big. So something like 1.5 x 1 inch??
January 17, 201016 yr Kevin, do you have a drawing or picture of the face plate? I'm generally in favor of big KaNOBBs but I agree that nearly 3" seems too large. Seeing the plate layout and dimensions could help though.
January 17, 201016 yr Author I never measured the stock T2 knob but its size was pretty absurd. 1x1.5 would be cool though.
January 17, 201016 yr Kevin, do you have a drawing or picture of the face plate? I'm generally in favor of big KaNOBBs but I agree that nearly 3" seems too large. Seeing the plate layout and dimensions could help though. Should have the real thing in a couple of days. Panel is 2.957 high and i don't remember how wide, look at the pictures. All that is on it is the volume knob in the middle and 2 of my stax jacks mounted via blind holes from the back. Vertically in line with the output tubes. (i.e. 2.575 + and - from exact center)
January 17, 201016 yr Author Wait, what!!!!! I thought we'd talked about some gold screws to make it moar awesome??
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