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The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!

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Yeah, I found that out myself on a Dynahi. Avoid ST Micro regulators, particularly the negative ones. Fairchild or On Semi both worked in my application (dynahi) where the ST failed miserably.

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Don't you love regulators which don't actually regulate?

I used national semiconductor parts for the regulators. They work fine.

They are 20+ years old. I have enough for many more years to come.

I found a JRC 79M12A (500mA) in my old parts box.

All sections on the power supply board are working. :D

I am going to Dayton OH next week to get tubes and Teflon wires.

  • 2 weeks later...

sanyo has announced that the 2sc3675 will be end of life'd in december of 2010. So if you want the exact same sound

buy your parts now. Although there should still be tens of thousands of parts in stock from what i'm told.

KSC5042 is also a replacement, but has been end of life'd too.

A Replacement is a 2sc4686A part from toshiba which is still in active production and is a higher voltage part i'm

using in the new KGSSHV. (+/-500 volt power supplies, same as T2)

  • 2 weeks later...

So i just got the email that the first chassis is done, and i should have it tomorrow.

So the first person that wants it, gets it, but due to CJ i won't be able to ship till

tuesday. Don't have the invoice yet, but they said something like $300 for finishing.

So its $987 plus about $300 plus shipping plus 3% paypal... (plus $160 for the board set if you don't have it yet)

8 more sets of tops and bottoms done, need to finish up the fronts and backs.

So i just got the email that the first chassis is done, and i should have it tomorrow.

So the first person that wants it, gets it, but due to CJ i won't be able to ship till

tuesday. Don't have the invoice yet, but they said something like $300 for finishing.

So its $987 plus about $300 plus shipping plus 3% paypal... (plus $160 for the board set if you don't have it yet)

8 more sets of tops and bottoms done, need to finish up the fronts and backs.

I'll hang on a while for my casework in the possibly forlorn hope that the exchange rate will improve a bit. $1.47 at the moment - up a cent on the bottom. Even though we aren't in the troubled Euro, we're still tainted by association. Wish I'd taken the plunge on a pair of omegas a couple of years ago when the dollar was at $2 to the UK pound.

That price doesn't factor in the Ti knob though does it?

For a full case finished that price is pretty good! Polished then black anodize?

No knobs yet, titanium or otherwise (except my unit)

other than that, a complete chassis.

Was thinking of also doing a knob with 3 machine rings

to put o-rings onto.

polished then black anodized.

i may do some custom machined spikes, but that is also for later.

Got the chassis. Its pretty damm good. Not quite justin good, because i went for a less shinny

finish, but i'm VERY happy with it. I'm pretty sure spritzer is getting the first one :D

Got the chassis. Its pretty damm good. Not quite justin good, because i went for a less shinny

finish, but i'm VERY happy with it. I'm pretty sure spritzer is getting the first one :D

Any chance of some pics, Kevin? Pretty please?

Its still at work. Trunk full of various CJ stuff...

If i go in to work on monday (depends on amount of booze on fri,sat,sun)

i'll take it home. Otherwise tuesday. Each piece is wrapped so nice.

The heatsinks polished up the best. Actually the front and back polished up the

best. NO wait...

And besides, taking pictures of black stuff is a pain.

its definitely BLACK.

And besides, taking pictures of black stuff is a pain.

its definitely BLACK.

A bit like the black spaceship in Hitchhiker's Guide:

"It's the weird colour scheme that freaks me. Every time you try to operate one of these weird black controls, which are labeled in black on a black background, a small black light lights up black to let you know you've done it. Hey, what is this, some kind of galactic hyper-hearse?"

Would it be possible to get the length and height of the heatsinks you guys used? Length is most important, and C/W for the length used would be handy.

The heatsinks are 16.2 inches long and 2.95 high. Don't remember the width.

Would have loved vertical fin cast heatsinks, but the prices were just stupidly high.

I think I found a couple options. I'll have to cut them down myself most likely, and they ship from Europe, but might be a possibility. I'm assuming no one needs heat sinks? Probably not that many people stupid enough to not get in on the case deal...

Oh nice. The black anodized heat sinks look great. After hearing the amp, even with cans I don't have but really liked, I sure was happy to be in on this little piece of history. By the way, were they SR-X Mk.3 Pro?

If there is a second run of boards, we can certainly change things at that time.

No way am i doing another 700 lbs of aluminum.

My recommendation would be to use a multiple of 100mm. Then at least you can slap a pair of heat sinks per side. I think shaving 12mm off the board size would be possible.

Here's the profile I'm getting a quote on now, I'd cut it to length myself

post-484-12951157444774_thumb.jpg

I'd be willing to handle the second run on heat sinks, but I cannot really commit to complete cases.

Its the flame thrower burned volcanic ash icelandic edition :D

Yes those were srx3 pro's. Probably close to 30 years old. Owned by mypasswordis

For those of you that have seen the sony 5400, the finish is absolutely identical to that.

And its a very deep anodize. Which means that the screws fit kind of tight the first time.

(waiting for a swt61 comment...)

Edited by kevin gilmore

I'd be willing to handle the second run on heat sinks, but I cannot really commit to complete cases.

I'm assuming you mean the profile you are showing. You gonna drill and tap all the holes?

Your arm is going to get tired.

Probably not that many people stupid enough to not get in on the case deal...

Raises hand. That's one of the many reasons I'm not going through with it :)

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