speaking of fakes...

WARNING TO ALL...

http://gilmore.chem....du/dsc_2288.jpg

The one on the left is real, the one on the right is fake, and breaks down at 200 volts.

birgir and i got nailed on this, about half of the ones i bought were fake, and most of

birgir's (if not all of them) are fake.

I cry... : I basically have a stockpile of all these fakes sitting around already...

I purchased my 2SA1486 from BDent, fingers crossed they are genuine.

Me too. They have a good rep for not burning their customers.

I'm guessing that they sample test incoming product batches.

EDIT: Bummer! Looks like B&D is sold out on these.

Edited September 6, 201114 yr by livewire

speaking of fakes...

WARNING TO ALL...

http://gilmore.chem....du/dsc_2288.jpg

The one on the left is real, the one on the right is fake, and breaks down at 200 volts.

birgir and i got nailed on this, about half of the ones i bought were fake, and most of

birgir's (if not all of them) are fake.

Sorry to hear this guys.

To clarify, the 2SA1968 sand is used in the early Blue Hawaii, and the KGSSHV, but not in the DIY T2.

Also the 2SA1968 sand in the KGSSHV amp can be supplanted

by using ixtp01n100d sand as the current source instead.

speaking of fakes...

WARNING TO ALL...

http://gilmore.chem....du/dsc_2288.jpg

The one on the left is real, the one on the right is fake, and breaks down at 200 volts.

birgir and i got nailed on this, about half of the ones i bought were fake, and most of

birgir's (if not all of them) are fake.

Evidently there are also 2sa1486 fakes out there, i don't have any pictures of the

fakes.

Get yourself one of these

http://www.ebay.com/...=item1c1d98666e

and test all the high voltage transistors before you put them in.

i will have to get one of these to test but based on HFe and appearance, i would say all of my 2SA1968 are real unless there are some fakes mixed inside the other bags i havent opened. there were 2 shipments of 2SA1968 -- 1100 pcs and then 900 pcs that followed. i am going to guess that there was a real shipment and a fake shipment. which one came first i have no idea. if KG/Birgir have pictures of the bags the parts came in i might be able to remember

the 2SA1486 appear to be real they just look like they've been kicked around for 20 years while the ones from bdent were always pristine

Double post...

Edited September 6, 201114 yr by spritzer

Here is a picture of my lot, 600 pieces all fake.

Hfe is a real lousy test. Even lousier if you are testing MOSFETs.

Edited September 6, 201114 yr by luvdunhill

Double post...

can you post an up close photo of some of the parts that test bad?

here you go

http://gilmore.chem....du/dsc_2289.jpg

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/dsc_2290.jpg

by the way, the lead free is a fucking lie too.

Edited September 6, 201114 yr by kevin gilmore

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/dsc_2290.jpg

thats the exact same kind of label thats on the bags of 2SC3675 that i got from the same source.

bar codes appear to be different. if the whole thing was faked i'd guess they would just be copying and pasting the same bar codes.

I just received 2sk216 from Pacific-semi today. They look so real. They look exactly like (Original#2) in the picture. The code is 7 H3, though. What do you think? I'll try to take a good picture and post it here later.

Is Lenesas a knock off brand of Renesas?

I just received 2sk216 from Pacific-semi today. They look so real. They look exactly like (Original#2) in the picture. The code is 7 H3, though. What do you think? I'll try to take a good picture and post it here later.

pretty sure all the ones ive ever had look like #3

I just received 2sk216 from Pacific-semi today. They look so real. They look exactly like (Original#2) in the picture. The code is 7 H3, though. What do you think? I'll try to take a good picture and post it here later.

The 2SK216 I have from pacific semi is marked 6 H6, so they seem to have two different batches of these devices. Does your devices have the circular dimple in the center? Mine was clearly rubbed out.

Here is the picture of the 2sk216 I got from Pacificsemi today. They sure look real. What do you think?

You should throw them in a tester, and see how they measure.

You should throw them in the mail and send them my way.

I purchased my 2SA1486 from BDent, fingers crossed they are genuine.

Just tested 42 parts from 2 different purchases from B&D. They all look good. Same for the C3840 parts, also from B&D.

Pretty nice torque screwdriver for not much money on eBay -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160635907482?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2315wt_911

Torque setting range: 0.5 to 15.0 Kg-cm ( ~7 to 208 oz-in )

Keep from breaking your PEEK screws or stripping threads in aluminum heatsinks.

Seems pretty nicely made. Nice small size.

FYI the max torque for the PEEK screws is about 21 oz-in or about 1.5 kg-cm.

isnt 8lb supposed to be the ideal torque for mounting a TO-220? or do i have the units wrong

for $20 with shipping i had to buy it.

The thing i had been using got flakey, its 50+ years old.

Ideal would be 8 inch-pounds (NOT foot-pounds!), assuming a nutted 6-32 steel screw. (12 in-lbs max)

If the #6 screw is going into a threaded aluminum heatsink, 6 inch pounds is safe.

PEEK (plastic ) screws have a much lower torque rating. ~1.33 in-lbs for the M3 or #6 screw sizes.

for $20 with shipping i had to buy it.

The thing i had been using got flakey, its 50+ years old.

too bad it's metric. the hex heads are going to be pretty useless. i haven't touched my set of metric hex keys in years.

i have a solution for that