I'd like to be in too please

Board and kit

Should find out if I'm going to have lucrative employment next year or be a poor uni student, which determines whether or not I'll seek to be included in this project.

Just want to indicate my interest now though.

Thanks.

I'm still up for this. IMO, what would be practical would be to have the main board built to be able handle whichever power supply is chosen, which if I understand you guys correctly, is basically what is happening. Then down the track, if one chooses, one could build the balls-to-the-wall PSU. Right now, the middle-of-the-road option would be for me. It has to be good enough I wont feel the need to upgrade with O2s. Maybe once I've moved out of my stupid apartment with its 30A main fuse that I blow once a week, to a place with a decent power supply, then I'll consider getting a drill press and going crazy.

Now I probably should build the bog-standard KGSS with the boards I have here as a warm-up.

As it stands now, we will offer one PSU only for the foreseeable future.

There is also no need to keep posting your interest in this project, we only need that once the preorder thread goes up. There will be enough boards for everyone.

I suppose we could use both SE and balanced source, right?

It's a fully balanced amp but you only have to ground the - input if using it single ended.

I just had a strange idea. What if you used the PCB itself as a drilling template that had the same diameter as the bit needed to drill out a #4-40. Drill one on each end of the board, tap those, screw them in, and then go down the board and drill the rest. Then you'd have to go back and enlarge the holes so a #4-40 could fit through them. If you didn't need to tap anything, it's even easier, just make them all #4-40 through hole and buy a bit the same diameter. Seems easy enough and you'd be able to generate a perfect angle bracket... The PCB I think would be thick enough to provide a nice template.

I just had a strange idea. What if you used the PCB itself as a drilling template that had the same diameter as the bit needed to drill out a #4-40. Drill one on each end of the board, tap those, screw them in, and then go down the board and drill the rest. Then you'd have to go back and enlarge the holes so a #4-40 could fit through them. If you didn't need to tap anything, it's even easier, just make them all #4-40 through hole and buy a bit the same diameter. Seems easy enough and you'd be able to generate a perfect angle bracket... The PCB I think would be thick enough to provide a nice template.

for those of us who arent as technically savvy as others, are you suggesting that one tape down the pcb to the bottom of the chassis and drill a hole through the pcb and the bottom of the case OR that the pcb already has a hole and after taping the pcb down the to the bottom of the case, one drills through the case where ever a mounting hole is present on the pcb? my apologies if you meant something entirely different. obviously i misunderstood.

in both events i would be rather scared of damaging the pcb. what are the chances that something like that would happen?

for those of us who arent as technically savvy as others, are you suggesting that one tape down the pcb to the bottom of the chassis and drill a hole through the pcb and the bottom of the case OR that the pcb already has a hole and after taping the pcb down the to the bottom of the case, one drills through the case where ever a mounting hole is present on the pcb? my apologies if you meant something entirely different. obviously i misunderstood.

in both events i would be rather scared of damaging the pcb. what are the chances that something like that would happen?

I was suggesting a way that external heatsinks might work, as Kevin mentioned the bracket construction might be a show stopper for some. Plenty of dynahis have been built with external devices..

looks like about $350 in parts with the transformer. plus the circuit boards

much better version of the bom, still missing the other parts of the thermal washers and part numbers for those

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvbomas.xlsx

you would need to add input connectors and a pot.

If someone wants to do a group buy on all the transistors, and someplace else other than the usual place,

i'm sure we can get the price down somewhat.

Edited September 6, 201015 yr by kevin gilmore

The chassis mounted sinks are simply out of the question and that's that. This is an amp meant to bring close to TOTL performance at a budget price and designed so that anybody can build it.

delete.

Edited September 22, 201114 yr by johnwmclean

updated bom.

also this which is real sweet, but needs a slight bit more work and then some testing.

The only shuntregulator i know of that won't blow up without a load.

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/shuntregulator.pdf

There is one problem for those outside tie US with Mouser.

They do not supply ixys sand.

So, unless a group buy by someone in the US happens, we outsiders will have to source the components from elsewhere.

IMaybe once I've moved out of my stupid apartment with its 30A main fuse that I blow once a week, to a place with a decent power supply, then I'll consider getting a drill press and going crazy.

I feel your pain, I have a single 20A breaker for my apartment. I have a drill press, I just have to make sure I turn everything else off to use it. The heatgun makes my lights flicker, and I can't heat anything in the microwave while the TV and AC are on.

You guys could also switch to 230V...

You guys could also switch to 230V...

Regarding the IXIS parts, I'm sure a EU group buy can be arranged! Oh boy, I don't even own a STAX headphone! Yet...

Oh boy, I don't even own a STAX headphone! Yet...

Me neither....

There is one problem for those outside tie US with Mouser.

They do not supply ixys sand.

So, unless a group buy by someone in the US happens, we outsiders will have to source the components from elsewhere.

There is a reasonable distributor, i think in england that ships worldwide and has reasonable prices. Don't remember which one, its

buried in the T2 thread somewhere.

There is one problem for those outside tie US with Mouser.

They do not supply ixys sand.

So, unless a group buy by someone in the US happens, we outsiders will have to source the components from elsewhere.

I got mine from Future Electronics.

Yep, that's them - Future Electronics..

IXCP10M90S @ US2.20c each back in June.

And now i get from another distributor that the 2sa1968LS has been discontinued and i have to

order from them NOW...

This is getting real old real fast. Glad the board is designed for both.

Was going to modify the power supply board for the 2sa1968ls because justin likes the led's...

But...

And now i get from another distributor that the 2sa1968LS has been discontinued and i have to

order from them NOW...

This is getting real old real fast. Glad the board is designed for both.

Was going to modify the power supply board for the 2sa1968ls because justin likes the led's...

But...

just be careful, as I've run across some of these that didn't meet spec. and were most likely relabeled. I believe Spritzer did as well way back when. I'd insist on factory packaging and check the markings against the datasheet.

And now i get from another distributor that the 2sa1968LS has been discontinued and i have to

order from them NOW...

This is getting real old real fast. Glad the board is designed for both.

Was going to modify the power supply board for the 2sa1968ls because justin likes the led's...

But...

OMG - I've just been trawling Sanyo's various sites, and eventually found the discontinuation notice Discontinued products property

Dead for good at end December 2010, with final order submissions by end September.

Good job I had enough stock for the BH; and thirty odd lurking in a bag recovered from an aborted project (don't ask).

Welcome to the wonderful world of transistors, here one day and gone tomorrow...