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KG Balanced Dynahi build discussion thread

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hello

I've got some MJE15034/5
can i use MJE15034/5 to replace MJE15030/1?

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  • Almost done casing the Dynahi. The input XLR sockets are temporary, waiting for the Neutrik ones to arrive. Also, cased the dual GRLV PSU which I will be using for both the SUSY Dynahi and balanc

  • Applewood
    Applewood

    Finally completed the dynahi. I really enjoyed this DIY processing. Based on previous experience, this time I spent more time on selecting parts and adjustment, also increased heat sink size, quiescen

  • Finished my Dynahi this week, a big thanks to Kevin Gilmore making this project possible. Was a more or less ;-) troublefree build, thanks to this forum i get the needed information, thanks to all. I

Posted Images

Yes.

 

//UFN

  • 6 months later...

Ok so I have 2 built two identical pzta board on my dynahi and I got them both biased and one I got the DC offset dialed in.  It seems like a drifts a bit though but from 0+ to 0- I get around 0.7-0.3mv.  I think this is fine, but on the other board it seems like I have no dc offset.  Would anyone have any idea why this is?  Also when I plug in the opa445 chip the right side LED dims.  

Checked all the joints and resoldered all of the pzta ones.  Still have the same issue.  Every once in a while a big number will pop up...like its supposed to.  Is it possible I have a bad transistor or that I burned one up?

  • 1 month later...

Hi guys

i will be building a dynahi and i have one or two doubts in the internal wiring.i made a scheme with the internal wiring.Anyone can help me saying that this is how is done properly?

or should i connect the xlr input ground to amplifier chassis ground?

Thanks for the help

Edited by ti5002000
remove image

most of us use the circuit board for the alps quad, so 6 wires including grounds to the pot board, then the pot boards to the amplifier boards, the pot board keeps the left and right grounds seperated

5 minutes ago, kevin gilmore said:

most of us use the circuit board for the alps quad, so 6 wires including grounds to the pot board, then the pot boards to the amplifier boards, the pot board keeps the left and right grounds seperated

i saw that board in a build but i googled for it,searched the forum for it and nothing..maybe i am searching for the wrong words...do you have an ideia where to find it?

i only found the board for 2 channel rk27

gerber file alpsquad3 in my boards directory. birgir may have extra boards to sell.

there were similar things on ebay a while ago.

The current source/sink LED (859-LTL-4213) has Vf=2.1V. So, with R1/R4 of 500R, the minimun possible current is 3.15mA.
I'm using 1K to regulate the current from 1.65mA and up.

For the gain, I'll try 20K for R52/R56 and 10pF for C1/C3.

Do you think that these changes are appropriate?

Edited by Remolon
decimal point

On 27/08/2016 at 5:46 PM, kevin gilmore said:

gerber file alpsquad3 in my boards directory. birgir may have extra boards to sell.

there were similar things on ebay a while ago.

I asked Birgir but it haven´t anymore.I found the board files and i will ask someone to make it for me.

Thanks for the help Kevin and everything

1 hour ago, Remolon said:

The current source/sink LED (859-LTL-4213) has Vf=2.1V. So, with R1/R4 of 500R, the minimun possible current is 315mA.
I'm using 1K to regulate the current from 165mA and up.

...

Do you think that these changes are appropiate?

You'll need to measure the forward voltage in place for the led.  Since it is running at a low current the voltage will be much less.  I forget exactly, but those less are running somewhere around 1.8v which really changes the calculation.

1 hour ago, ti5002000 said:

I asked Birgir but it haven´t anymore.I found the board files and i will ask someone to make it for me.

Thanks for the help Kevin and everything

Cannot help you if you already have or decided to use quad RK27 for volume pot. but there is a GB going for TKD pots that also include PCB board for mounting the pot. 

Edited by mwl168

1 hour ago, mwl168 said:

Cannot help you if you already have or decided to use quad RK27 for volume pot. but there is a GB going for TKD pots that also include PCB board for mounting the pot. 

 

Thanks for the tip mwl168.I already saw that ,but when i saw that at first it will be shipped from us but now it seems that also from sweden.i will see

Thanks

 

TKD no longer sells to US directly without going through their US distributor which quoted a much higher unit price. That's why we decided for MLA to order directly from TKD in Sweden, he'll then send the North America orders to me and I'll handle the shipping to individual GB participants in North America.  

Edited by mwl168

1 hour ago, mwl168 said:

TKD no longer sells to US directly without going through their US distributor which quoted a much higher unit price. That's why we decided for MLA to order directly from TKD in Sweden, he'll then send the North America orders to me and I'll handle the shipping to individual GB participants in North America.  

Oh all right.

I will buy one.

I am from Portugal so it is better for me that way.

Thanks for GB

Just permuting 500R and 1K the maximum Iccs does not change and the minimum is lower.

For a LED with Vf=1.8V:

Imax= 3.6mA and the minimum of 2.52mA change to 1.31mA

  • 3 weeks later...

Finished a build for my friend,still crappy at wiring job.....

This one's gain is set at 16X under balanced mode,powered with 2xsimga 22 PSU,will post more photos after tuning knob arrived

Sound amazing like any other KG design ,EPIC !

my own onboard heatsink /w KG Goldrefrence PSUs version also coming

M1uAYUp.jpg

 

eNi2sNj.jpg

update with feet installed

mywmAWd.jpg

cCL2BbW.jpg

Edited by ang728

Very nicely done! Who/where is the case from? Agree that the wiring could probably be cleaned up a bit, maybe a pcb for the pot wiring would help? Routing down the center like you did is good though.

15 minutes ago, Pars said:

Very nicely done! Who/where is the case from? Agree that the wiring could probably be cleaned up a bit, maybe a pcb for the pot wiring would help? Routing down the center like you did is good though.

I ordered from a Taobao seller ,but I'm not sure whether they have any ebay business or reseller

Thanks ! Was trying to use mounting PCB but I forgot to restock (faceplam).Will going to tie them to look more tidy :)

Edited by ang728

  • 2 weeks later...

what is the name of the latest board?

As far as I Know...

current versions:
ssdynahibalsmt.zip           : SMD PZTA transistors,offboard heatsinks
ssdynahibalsmth.zip        : SMD PZTA transistors,onboard heatsinks
ssdynahibalsmthm.zip    : SMD PZTA transistors,onboard heatsinks, mitred trace corners 
ssdynahibalsmtm.zip      : SMD PZTA transistors,offboard heatsink, mitred trace corners

 

older Ver.

dynahibal8f.zip : MPSW transistors,onboard heatsinks
dynahibal9.zip  : MPSW transistors,offboard heatsinks

 

 

My previous build is dynahibal9 and I also have a v8 build working :)

Edited by ang728

cool thanks...  I have a set from like 2011 or 12 and wanted to compare

 

is there an advantage over mitred vs not?

10 hours ago, sbelyo said:

cool thanks...  I have a set from like 2011 or 12 and wanted to compare

 

is there an advantage over mitred vs not?

mind to post pics of your own boards?

no difference at audio frequencies,just for mental healthiness ,lol

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