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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/04/2023 in all areas

  1. Some new contemporary female vocals: Janita Greentea Peng
    2 points
  2. Again, the hum goes away if I touch the ground pole in the rear of the energizer with my hand. That's why I still think a poor connection in the output jack is the most likely culprit at this point, especially after excluding the output tubes as a possible cause. However, I don't like that bulging in the dust cover, so I'll deal with that anyway. The 007A has no channel imbalance issues and its sound output is as strong as ever (including the bass), so I don't see any need for recoating the diaphragms for now. Also, when I opened both drivers for cleaning, there were no arcing spots and no other visual signs of coating damage. Just a bit of overall dust specks - a fine, dry paintbrush did the trick. The dust covers, the Mylar and rubber rings and the stators were cleaned with isopropyl alcohol (before that, the latter also went through a metal polishing session and some serious washing with neutral detergent, a fine toothbrush and water to get rid of any oxidation), then I blew some air through the stators' grids and sealed them with carpenter masking tape to remove invisible dust until right before reassembly, just like you taught me 😁 The 007 Mk1 you're helping me with through PM'ing is another can of worms... Haven't got the time yet to complete the CAD drawings of the diaphragm spacers yet, too busy at work 😕
    1 point
  3. Thai Small plates. Outstanding Crispy Pork Belly! https://www.facebook.com/tahtienyork
    1 point
  4. A British bacon bap in a barn! Did I mention there were cakes? https://www.bawdonlodgefarm.co.uk/
    1 point
  5. Hi Wachara, Does this mean that there could indeed be a problem with the energizer's left channel, but the SR-407 is unable to show it due e.g. to a possibly higher coating resistivity? If that's the case, could rebiasing the output tubes (particularly in the left channel) be a way to solve the problem? I haven't used these Tung-Sol 6SN7GTB tubes for that long and they are driven rather conservatively by the SRM-T1S circuit with the CCS mod at 6 mA / tube section, but since they are NOS I cannot rule out one of them reaching EOL. Before I start looking for another pair of tubes, rebiasing the tubes doesn't cost me anything (besides time) and brings benefits nonetheless, so I'll give it a try anyway and see what happens.
    1 point
  6. I don't like to get too political either, but it's too late for that. Everyone here knows I'm a liberal Democrat. I do however believe in crossing the isle to work with Republicans to get things done. That is just becoming increasingly impossible with what has become of the Republican party. Dianne was an amazing politician. Her accomplishments are too vast to mention here. Not only a role model for women, but a role model for anyone that believes our Government has a role to play in helping it's citizens. I'm sorry she didn't live long enough to see the ultra MAGA contingent ousted.
    1 point
  7. And now for the Deluxe edition. It adds dual mono Golden Reference regulators and a motor w/ remote for the 47-step attenuator
    1 point
  8. Inspired by Satyrnine's project and an attempt to recover from my Tube input CFA3smd failure some time ago I’ve been busy with this today. I call it Cascode Tube Input Something - intended for my CFA3smd something. +220/+15/-15V and filament needed. Based on ubaltoblatubeschem2, thank you Kevin.
    1 point
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