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High Rollers
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Everything posted by JoaMat

  1. Thanks guys. Yes, external PSU (T2 PSU with some addons). Maybe one can’t call it a Carbon since output stage is formed by NPN BJT - but else it’s similar. I think current is like 10mA. 300R emitter resistor and two LEDs in series. With +/-400V the heatsinks are “hand warm” and you can probably double the current.
  2. Has been in service for a few months now. Sounds alright.
  3. https://www.svtplay.se/video/31776463/jazzsommar-karl-olandersson-kvartett?id=KyE3oPV Should be available worldwide for the next 24 hours. From Sweden but Jazz is universal.
  4. Nice, Kerry! Now I get it - and the three pins (-, +, o) and all vias visible on the other side make sense even to me.
  5. Thanks Kerry, for internal picture of and info about your T2. It’s always very inspiring see your work. I assume the four small boards, one at each big tube, are CCS for the two LEDs on main board at respective output CCS. They must differ (schematically) from the original design, mustn’t they? Do you mind tell us what the small boards look like?
  6. Nice build indeed. I like the minimalistic – just a single Stax connector in the front and power switch in the back.
  7. Happy Birthday, José!
  8. Thanks James. It certainly looks like dn2540 has been flipped. After consulted the schematics and checked the board I do believe the silkscreen is correct.
  9. Take look at the schematic. The offset servo can’t be disabled!
  10. Nice work, Sebtdi! Here is a schematic for the amplifier boards Sebtdi and sweetleaf are using. Main difference to above schematic (kgsscarbonproduction.pdf) is the offset servo. The adjusting procedure for this is like any other Carbon. Balance is set by the trimmer close to the LED and offset balance is set by the trimmer close to output connector. For setting the output current use the two most outward trimmers. It might be bit tricky to measure the voltage cross the resistor (R21 and R22 in your case) on a live amplifier. Myself, I always check the current with help of a low voltage supply and a multimeter in mA DC mode cross the constant current source. Below sorenb tells how to do. I guess a 9V battery for low voltage will work just fine.
  11. Nice progress, starcat. Some builders put LEDs on the other (tube) side... Also, putting battery 22K resistors on the tube side elevated half an inch makes it perfect for using clip leads when setting the voltage to 6.55V.
  12. Great! Looking at your measurements of ref102 I suspect you might have the problem there. You should have a potential at Out (pin 6) of 10 volts above -562V - that will be -552V and not -532V. You have a spare ref102?
  13. May I suggest a diode test comparison Q20 against Q15 to exclude the 2SC3675? If not already done.
  14. Familiar with the diode test method? See this post. Seems the regulator isn’t doing anything but passing all unregulated voltage through. My bet is on a faulty mosfet... or something else.
  15. Happy Birthday, Kerry!
  16. Isn’t 2SA1413 a smd TO-252 something? Looking at picture below it seems Stax used something like that in the output current sources in SRM-T2. You might consider KSA1156 for 2SA1486 on heat sink and in batteries. Reduce high voltages to +/-400V and you can use KSA1156 in the output current sources as well. As I see it reducing the voltage is beneficial without drawbacks. I’ve used STN9360 in batteries and even in output current sources. Bend outer pads slightly outwards to fit holes and solder them in standing. In current sources they will idle at 1/4W.
  17. One thing that differs is that Qobus for some albums have a link to PDF album booklet, which I like. Else I haven’t thought much of differences between them.
  18. Here is the simple adapter I made. Black wire connected to left and middle pins of the green holder and red wire to right pin. Black banana to E on the meter and red to C. At some point I must have changed C and E connectors on the meter to bananas but I can’t remember having done that… P.S. Found this in cyber space: https://jestineyong.com/duoyi-dy294-meter-repair/ https://www.pa4tim.nl/?p=6022
  19. That’s similar to what I do. But I have left and middle pins connected to one wire going to E on the meter while the third pin goes to C. When I measure j79/k216 I just put the transistor into the socket (be aware of orientation). For c3675 and a1486 I put their C and E pins into socket accordingly. When measuring breakdown voltages C and E are involved. If you want to measure Collector Emitter breakdown voltage than Collector to C and Emitter to E while Base is floating. In case you are measuring a Mosfet you should connect Drain to C and Source and Gate to E. Duoyi DY294 Operating Instructions.pdf
  20. Aren’t there other similar .1uF/50V in stock at Mouser? For instance 80-C320C104J5R7301, but there are cheaper.
  21. I’m out of town for a couple of days, but I see if I can post a picture of it when back home. Basically it just a piece of pcb, some three pin socket (green I think) and two wires.
  22. Nice post with YouTube video clips above, James. One tool I’ve found very useful is desoldering gun. I use DEN-ON SC7000Z. The first one I bought nine years ago and it still working. Last year I bought a second one. DEN-ON isn’t cheap but it’s very reliable and it’s said to be possible to get spare parts if needed. There are different tips available and with the 1.5 mm I’ve desoldered the small 9 pin Teflon tube holder with ease. Another good thing with the DEN-ON is hot air blowing. With hot air blowing I remove smd parts. A few days ago when doing 0402 parts soldering exercise I tested to remove a few 0402 parts and that worked great. Then I put the parts back – good exercise...
  23. Done some soldering exercise today. This small board contains 100 x 0402 10K resistors. Hand soldered with a Weller station, XNT-H tip and 0.3 mm solder wire. A few of the resistors are not flat to the board but I think they are acceptable soldered. Looking at your board, Kerry, there seems to be some really nasty things. Any chance for part numbers? I have to convince myself that the best way is to pay for a prepopulated board…
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