mwl168

This "Normal" behavior has been my experience as well but I also found the magnitude of offset drift is closely related to the case temperature of the output device too. Does the heatsinks of your Carbon get significantly warmer when the amp warms up? I am theorizing that if the amp has oversized heatsink that barely gets warm the offset may drift much less. But this is just a guess.

Allow me to help solidify your point...

That looks like a Grounded Grid?

Happy Birthday Nate!

Happy Birthday Craig!

If it matters, I built the that340 version because I believe it's the latest version of the balanced Dynahi with the SUSY input IIRC. I did not use the THAT340 BJT though - I use the jfets and plugged them into the DIP sockets. No other changes needed. Going by memory here but happy to dig out more details if you like me to.

Congratulations Kerry!

I may have the boards. PM me if interested. I don't remember if schematic was ever posted.

Gives a new meaning to “rolling shutter”.

There seems to be no trim pots nor servo circuits. How is the offset and balanced adjusted?

Those are good lenses and cover most applications other than wild life, sport photography, etc. which need much more reach. But then we are talking really big dollars. And, yes, these are heavy bulky gears. The 24-70 f2.8 is a great walk-around lens with great optical quality but it's a brick not to mention the 70-200 f2.8. It's a plus that the body was not used for video. I read that some Canon bodies tend to overheat in video mode but not sure if 5D II has this issue. Edit: Forgot to mention, Fred Miranda is a good place to check on the going price for camera gears.

My biggest complaints about the 5D II: 1. Does not support auto ISO in the manual mode (default to ISO 400). 2. Slow frame rate - less than 4 frame per second 3. High ISO noise - I try and keep it under 1600 But my expectation may not be fair for a full-frame DSLR that was first released in 2008.

I still use my 5D II I bought new about 10 years ago. I consider it still a very good body that's capable of making high quality pictures with good quality lenses. It is also very well built and supports different focus screen options (not so the 5D MK III, IV and 5DS R). 21 M pixel is more than enough for most applications - this coming from someone that also owns a 5DS R. I have not used 5D III and IV but I will guess the 5D II will miss out on high ISO performance, dynamic range and frame rate. For the price I've seen advertised for used, good condition 5D II I consider it a bargain. The emphasize is on condition; things like shutter actuation count, is there dust on the image sensor, are any of the memory card slot pins bent, etc.. I am curious - which lenses are included?

Finally got the time to mount the FLM ball head on my Bogen tripod which I bought back in the 80's. Started playing with and setting up the controls on the FLM ball head and I am impressed. FLM is a small German company and seems fairly unknown in the US. I also have a RRS BH-40 ball head. IMO, the relatively equivalent FLM ball head is of equal or better quality at a lower cost to the RRS ball head. I like them both. The FLM head does have some unique and innovative features which I find rather handy.

Went on a bit of shopping spree the last couple of weeks. Taking advantage of Holiday discounts on the FLM ball head. Nice design and very high quality product. The Canon 1D MK4 body is a prompt purchase - one in great shape came up at a good price. Only less than 34K shutter actuation. Shoot me a PM if you are interested in the mint condition 300MM F4 L lens. I bought a 300mm F2.8 last year so this one becomes somewhat redundant. I'll cut a good deal for longterm headcasers. Also has a Canon 1.4X ii available.

Happy Birthday Joachim!

^ as is my Marantz SA1.

Is the GRLV intended to output +20VDC or +/-20VDC?

I bought some 2SC4686a from utsource many years ago. They tested same as the ones I got from BDENT. But I am fairly positive they also sell some fake parts.

Looks like time to start a dedicated thread for the Stax X9000.

Happy birthday!

Happy Birthday John.

I have found using smaller diameter of solder helps very much with this problem. I now use .025/.6mm ones almost exclusively now for this kind of work.