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I need to build a new set of steps from the attached garage to the house. I always like the ones a friend of mine has, and went out and bought the materials for them. These are what I would call box steps, but I haven't had any luck on finding plans for something like this online. I was planning on doing these with 2x8 framing on 12" centers and 3/4" plywood. Bottom section would be 5' x 31" and top 36" x 18".I attached a pic of the ones at my friend's house. I'm not sure how the overhang is done on these. Is it just the plywood, or something else? Any suggestions welcome.

I listened to the HF-2 last weekend at Absorbine's as well. I have not really listened to a lot of high-end Grados, but would consider myself a flats guy as well. Bowls were to be equated with drilling holes in my ears from my experience, but I figured all of you who waxed on about bowls couldn't have that bad of ears. I was pleasantly surprised that I liked the HF-2s. With bowls.

Happy Birthday!

I seem to recall using the Maas before, but my favorite is Simichrome. I've used that for years on my Campy bike parts, etc. Kind of hard to find in the US these days though (German product, Happich IIRC is the company that makes it).

The normal pad/hole size is not big enough for the flush sockets, so I had to drill them out slightly (on the Dynalo board). I have a pretty full set of carbide PCB drills

I have some of those (28 pin) and yes they work. The flush pin sockets are much slicker, however They do require drilling (a slight bit) and are dependent on the pads/holes being of sufficient size that you don't go through the thru plating. Not a biggie, but if they will work, I would use them, even for singles. I used these for my work dynalo for all transistors, and it worked out really nice.

Preemptive bitching... what a fun concept! Yes, too small of resistor and pad footprint = a no go for me. I'm only in for two boards, so certainly don't do anything solely on my behalf however. Good idea. I need to look at the Eagle files to see what these are, but documenting the jumpers right on the board is pure win. Good as well if you do a custom part in Eagle. I may use duals, and will almost certainly socket whatever I use. I would like to use these, which require a decent sized pad (the Dynalo boards will take these; the Dynahi boards will not). Absolutely.

I don't know any absolutes, but I would think the higher level the signal is the better before running thru a long IC. The signal straight from the cartridge is such a low level; usually mV IIRC. So yes, phono pre with the TT, then to the preamp would be my guess. This is also what balanced is for... long cable runs.

The beta22 is fully discrete and has a much higher power output, much better PSU, etc. Although for a pro unit this doesn't look like a bad little amp, architecturally it isn't in the same ballpark with a beta22. Good specs are pretty easy to achieve with opamps running with negative feedback. I agree with the balanced in/SE out comment as well. I can't tell, but is this really fully balanced or does it just convert bal->SE?

Heh. That was my (actually ours, my two brothers and I) table back in a previous decade. My brother still had it up until a few years ago but sold it (rewired arm and other mods).

Sorry, I know you didn't do the mods, and I'm sure it sounds fine. I don't think having the caps hurts anything. To SO: does the Thorens table with the SME support modern cartridges like the Zyx well? I know Thorens such as my TD320 require highly compliant cartridges, but that is with a Thorens arm. I still have an unhealthy fixation on Thorens stuff and always wanted a TD125

Why in the hell would you snubber Schottkys? They don't have the turn off noise of normal/HexFRED-type diodes, so no caps needed...

First time I've seen it. Nice improvement, as emailing your order to them was a massive PITA IMO.

x2

Nah, this is one of thos '80s slim designs made to appeal to the SS peeps looking at Levinson, etc., so it is very space challenged. I don't want to destroy the resale value, so if I want better I'll just get rid of it and buy something else (or build it). I do have an Aleph P1.7 partially done (and languishing)

Ahh, gotcha. When you said that about the ccs, I either missed why or whatnot. There is another ss piece in here: SA-5/5.1 Level I Power Supply Upgrade. As in the audio stage, I install far better resistors and film capacitors, and upgrade the aluminum electrolytic capacitors, using Black Gate Powdered Graphite capacitors. The solid-state constant-current source for the error amplifier tube is eliminated, removing the final source of "transistory" colorations. Price for SA-5/5.1 Level I Power Supply Upgrade: $1150 Add $110 setup fee to this price if not done with an "LSP" upgrade.) A Siliconix CR160 CRD is used here, protected by a 91V zener from getting over-voltaged. I was thinking about replacing this with an IXYS DNR2450 (PN off the top of my head, bought one but haven't tried it yet) so I could get rid of the zener, etc.

Actually I had been talking to Doug in a thread over on hf regarding that. I think it was nikongod in chat a couple of weeks ago here who said he thought it would be a bad idea after looking at the schematic.

Someone seems a bit obsessed...

I would agree that if it could be properly implemented, a linear arm should have it over a conventional arm from a geometric perspective. I had to laugh as this reminded me of the Sony POS table I had in the '80s in between Thorens' with a mechanically driven linear arm. Which would mechanically drive itself into the groove wall and skip occasionally. Trying to deal with Sony service and finally giving up (after realizing they weren't able to do anything about an engineering defect) was the beginning of the end for me and Sony.

I would agree that wheelchairs suck. I think the issue isn't his use of a Segway for normal activities, but its use in the context of being around fragile, easily damageable things. Add to that either his lack of fine control of the Segway, or his lack of caring (from what it sounds like). I would also think that for someone in his position (founder/CEO of a successful company and the possible accompanying ego), that he may view the things he was around at Canjam as only a matter of a bit of money to replace.

Window motor and regulator for my son's Accord. Dealer wanted $850 to fix it...

I hope Lily had a happy birthday, and congrats to you (any your wife) on making it for the year! My oldest son's first year seemed like an eternity to me; second child it flew by, go figure.

I hate to tell you this Mark, but the 6th case up has an out of sequence value on it If only my shit was as organized, however

Looks like a thermocouple at 59.5 deg, so you are temp testing something. Something at 30V 150mA; perhaps one of the output devices?

Yeah, I figured there had to be more to it than just being pretentious as I would think carting that thing around and maneuvering it would get old real quick. Ditto on cable and other product bashing, however