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Happy Birthday Vicki!!

Just wondering to myself if this would be a significant upgrade to my Dynalo (single-ended, built on a Headamp Dynamic V2 circuit board from when Justin also sold boards). Would a single sigma22 be an appropriate PSU for this? Does anyone still have boards for this? It would appear I would need a pair of amp pcbs? I think I still have enough Toshiba sand around to do one, but could also go with the currently available stuff from Mouser if need be (and the right boards) I do have a dynahi (also SE) built up, but have never finished the casing for it.

Happy Birthday!!

Happy Birthday, Wayne! :prettyprincess:

Happy Birthday Jim!! Sounds like you had a good one!

Nice Ian! Congrats!

^ Agreed. And heh Mikey! Nice job! Me: actually did fix my panasonic plasma today. 2 ICs and 2 caps. Was suffering the 10 blinks of death syndrome, did some research online and decided it was worth a shot. There are a lot of screws in these things; 40 just to take the back off Working great now though.

Happy Birthday Deepak!

Should be OK, as long as the computer supports it. We haven't had any trouble with my son's 2009 MBP for what that is worth.

Happy Birthday!

Didn't read the whole thread on the Apple discussion board from that point (tl;dr) but it sounded like either a BGA ball process problem or the graphics chip itself (or both). Apple has had BGA manufacturing/design problems for years; my G5 Powermac had problems with the memory controller chip related to this issue. Good luck Shelly!

Good stuff Nate!

What tin ear said, and the above. A tutorial on how not. And why does it still say newbie above the OP instead of cunticulas bannes or whatever. Those more knowledgeable please correct my inept attempt.

Yep, very sad. I didn't think of it immediately, thinking that her moving out of ICU was a good sign. Tragic in that a simple visit for an outpatient procedure could result in this. RIP to one fucking funny lady!

Ouch Dan! Glad it wasn't worse!

Happy Birthday Jack!

So you build it up with the 2 P-ch and 2 N-ch around the 14-pin chip (which I assume is where the THAT340 would go)? Also, this appears to be a mono board? I'll look thru this thread as I assume there are schematics somewhere. About what is the physical size of the PCB? Thanks.

This. And everything else. Miss you!

What I want to do is do the SE->BAL conversion with the minimum sonic impact on the SE signal (and the BAL obviously, but I don't use balanced currently). What is this specifically designed thing BTW? I've probably seen it at some point, but I'm getting older...

Kinda expensive but supposed to be good. http://www.excelsports.com/main.asp?page=8&description=Eolo+III+CO2+Inflator+with+2+16g+Cartridges&vendorCode=SILCA&major=12&minor=1 SIlca was bought by an American and moved from Italy to Indiana. Always used to be the pump to have back in the day (still have 2). They can be a workout to get a tire up to 100+ psi with though.

On my Rotel RCD991, in implementing the discrete I/V stage, I had thought about the SE to BAL conversion, since it is single-ended to the output, where it is converted to balanced via an opamp. Per Filburt's recommendation, I had switched this out to a heavily bypassed AD8599 or something like that. I read with interest the input stage on this amp, doing SE->BAL conversion using the THAT340. Do you think that doing a small PCB to implement this would be an improvement over the opamp? I wanted to preserve a) the output muting relays, and 'b) the balanced output. Even though I don't currently use them, I would like to keep them implemented for resale value and more importantly to preserve the output quality in SE mode. The cetoole I/V stage I have built up has dc servos. Would the THAT340 implementation be pretty much 0V DC offset, or does that depend upon it being inside the servo loop?

Yep, such a loss. Brilliant, but as other have noted, had his issues. RIP Robin

Cool Colin! SO that freeze off shit actually works? This was an aluminum cup in an aluminum frame (Cannondale)? Might have to try this on my friend's bike that I so far can't get the drive side crank arm off of.

Sheldon's bolt thing supposedly works very well. Remember that that cup is LH thread, so CW to loosen. If it were std. threads, you would need a LH bolt and nut to do Sheldon's thing. Get a grade 8 bolt and nut (or whatever he recommends in the link I had attached.

Yeah, had to shitcan that Maytag washer of ours after paying to replace the same tub bearing for the 2nd (or was it 3rd) time. Thought it was a Whirlpool, but they were Maytags. Much happier with the Speed Queen top loader, SS tub.