luvdunhill

Ah, well thanks to whomever ordered the hit then

Looks like the parcel locker where we fetch our mail was broken into, and I had a key in my mail slot Not really sure what was in the parcel locker, so I'm not sure how pissed I should be. Anyone know who to go to about such a thing? Getting the USPS on the phone is a fail, so I'm hoping that isn't the answer. I sure hope there wasn't a secret plot to buy me a HD800 that was scheduled to arrive today

those look like LSK389 in de're

Nice Nate. I really like the adjustable nickless squeeze type strippers. The "depth" gauge is an added bonus, which allows to to strip exactly the same amount of each wire. They aren't cheap, but here's the one I have:

I'm interested as well. My question would be, when people say the JH don't need an amp, and sound great out of an iPhone, would they say the same about the TF10? Because, honestly, I think the TF10 sound 100% better amped and sound rather blah without decent amplification. That to say, it's still a issue of quality amplification. Out of the Pico, I was pretty unimpressed with the TF10 for example.

it's not really a question of which 5-pin connector, IMHO, but yeah, they are rather nice.

yeah, that was pretty much my suggestion. As long as they don't think those 5-pin XLR jacks near the baseboards in the fancy hotel conference rooms aren't headphone outs, you're probably good.

Dan C. is the go to guy for the inside scoop, if there is any... I'm interested as well

Thanks Ari. If the amp has outputs at ground potential there is one snag, if I'd like to avoid some sort of of "balanced" / "single-ended" input selector switch. Thus, all four outputs would be active. With regard to adapters, there was almost fail at the DFW meet due to one of these, I believe the LD mk6 has one of these custom adapters. I still cannot figure out how it worked...

Dusty: Yeah, that's right. So far. So, you're asking the same question on the amp side. The L/R- is unterminated. I definitely don't want a switch there. So, in summary the problem is with a 4-pin jack, or even two 3-pin jacks, that are used on the output of a four channel design, you cannot "convert" this using any combination of adapters, custom or otherwise, for use by a single ended terminated headphone. You need a ground reference.

does downloading all PMs to a text file and using grep/notepad/whatever count as a feature?

wait, I thought about this... even if you can do this (which by the way, I thought of a case where you could do this, a concertina output 'cause I did this in my preamp, but not much good at driving much of anything), how would this work with a single 4-pin jack? just because you can short the minus to ground, doesn't mean you can short them to each other and get a usable reference and, Dusty I just mean use a single jack. You need a ground reference for the single ended headphone option. Adapters are fair game. All this to say, I think finding an isolated four pin jack with a separate shell connection is the way to go...

no room. Top is completely covered too

I only have room for one jack

I'd be worried about noise in that case. If the shell cannot be isolated from the outer connector, it could be a source of ground loops and other nasties. Why not go through the trouble of supporting single ended headphones?

right. otherwise, there isn't a way to connect a single ended headphone to a 4-pin jack.

heh, you're quick. I cannot see why that wouldn't work, but then again, I could imagine designing for that condition..

meh. I'd like a way to convert to single ended and only have a single jack...

heh, but seriously. If you only have room for a single jack, and want to support balanced (4-channel bridged) and single ended cans, what do you do? Two options as I see it. Use 4-pin jack and tie ground to the shell and/or case or use a 5-pin jack and have a dedicated pin for ground. If the first case, I'm not sure if there are 4-pin female jacks where the where the "shell connection" can be isolated from the case. If this isn't possible, then is 5-pin the only real option? I cannot believe this hasn't come up before. Thoughts?

I have PSU boards if you're interested.

yeah, in theory... however, recapping a piece of gear can go horribly wrong. I've seen people try to remove 'ltyics without the access of the bottom of the PCB (well, people other than Mikhail, believe it or not) and scorched solder mask, the whole nine yards

jitter perfect?

if he has to have a remote, that sorta limits things... The Bent Audio Tap-X that meets the requirements including remote, is $2250 new I believe. I don't think a MicroTAP would, due to the loop out requirement, but I admit to never really knowing how those work (toslink controller? wtf?).

Mike, how is the amount of gain in your system? Is an active preamp the correct piece to the puzzle?

my guess is you're fine. I'm not sure if I can think of a case where a bad cap would be fatal in a speaker crossover. In a piece of gear like the Adcom, I'd expect the fuse to protect against a bad cap. You could bring the Adcom up on a variac if you're really concerned.