luvdunhill

sure that's fair. It was just a funny juxtaposition I bet the F3 will be more or less superseded by the new amp though.

mailed. Included another item you forgot about most likely as well that I ran across. Gratis, unless of course I'm short a thermistor in the next day or so when I'm finishing up a pair of monoblocks

ha! It's rather crowded amongst all the power JFET amps out there. That would be a grand total of one design, and one the way.

Good price to even harvest those nice XLR connectors for other cables.

usually (I don't know about these boards), there is one in series between primaries (in 230V) and one used as a ground loop breaker that's connected from ground to the chassis. I don't mind sending an extra, but $3 parts are rather coveted in the DIY cave

I'm assuming you only need two, right (220VAC)?

:palm::palm::palm: edit: ok, I had to reply.

Cool. I'm planning on dropping the transistors in the mail after work today, let me know if you need anything else

Sorry Pete, I'm so slammed this week I haven't had a chance to look at your BOM. Here are a few quick comments, but shouldn't be considered exhaustive. A lot of part choices in the previous BOM was due to using a more restrictive E-series of resistor, to allow all the 1/4W resistors to be PRP. I am planning on using a Wima for C2 so all the film caps are red (yes, seriously). The 0.47uF value is correct. All the electrolytic caps are 18mm diameter now. The OPA445 is recommended. C11-C14,C31 are correct on your BOM. The only important value is the 220pF. The others are just bypasses. Use something nice here. I'm planning on not using TR1 and TR2, per Kevin's original schematic. Some people may use them, but I didn't see a reason to do so in the Dynahi and not really here either. I can see most people wanting to use them, so YMMV. My recommendation was R17, R18 = 10K and a 20K pot with a 3.3K series resistor. The two 5K resistors at the feedback point are also changed to 2K. I plan on trying this and going from there. I think digger945 should be the authority on this recommendation, especially since I'm going to be running mine at considerably more current than anyone else, AFAIK. Jacob asked about how to bond the TO-92 devices together. I'm planning a tutorial at some point, just haven't gotten around to it, as there are a few tricks I've learned having done this so many times. You want to use a small particulate metal epoxy. There are several out there, but the easiest to get in small quantities is Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive. Note the adhesive part.

Gary: I'd try and find one of the "assembled" Cinemag setups, on Ebay/Audiogon/etc. At that point, all you need is cables.

he's an unofficial reseller, dontcha-know?

Reks doesn't like posts that aren't in English

Mundorf RXF Capacitors. Never tried them before. Using them in a CLC supply with a custom Electra-Print choke. I'm not really sure how I'll secure them to the case, as they are an odd shape. My previous plan using motor-run caps failed miserably, as I'm now constrained to 48mm high case and don't want to stick them on top...

dude, forget the Blak Gatez, this has Bybees!

I do.

looks like a key ingredient is opamps made for video applications.

Ya test the gcode on the wax, not the heat

Logical? Maybe. I prefer the term eisegesis, if that's okay with Reks.

reading comprehension fail. try again.

Skylab's Reviews

I'd recommend using the FQA19N20C / FQA12P20 devices over IRFP240 / IRFP9240 if we're talking about the easily available choices. You're also missing the thermistors. If possible, mount the bridges on the heat sinks themselves, they'll get warm.

I prefer a "plot", not some sort of episodic jumbled mess

Nice, but a bit steep on the price... Plus, I'd have to admit to owning "400 Blows", just not ready for that.