luvdunhill

Not in the objective sense. It really depends on the user's preferences and overall system matching. Which DAC are you trying to open and gaze at the chipses again?

From the manual: "This is a very unusual amplifier that will not sound good with about 98% of the loudspeakers on the market. It requires careful attention to loudspeaker loading to get the best performance." This "loading" parameter is the key here and the one forgotten by those who pair it with the K1000. Remember, the the F1 is a transconductance amplifier. If you can imagine, the amp was pretty much designed to handle Lowther and Fostex drivers. If you look carefully at their offerings, you see nothing that resembles the impedance and sensitivity of the K1000 drivers. I suppose my logic isn't all that direct, but this is the basis of why I think it wouldn't work so well...

No surprise to me the F1 isn't a great match, given its designed use. I do still think the F5 will absolutely blow the beta22 out of the water though

I don't think that word means what you think it does

yes, I figured the recommendation was rather apropos

In my opinion, there is only one choice: Bondhus - Timesaving GorillaProof Tools

1.5A max. no, it's really small, 16AWG is much, much to big. That's the strange thing, why isn't it on the datasheet? Anyways, I'll check tonite and see if 22 awg will fit and go from there. Nice connectors by the way.

I love that cat The is the same stuff that Handmade Audio sells as well, if anyone has bought that before.

Happened to run across this and bought 4 rolls. Probably the best hook-up wire that I've used, much better than most of the fanboy stuff that people recommend on HF (ahem, cough, Navships). It is Teflon SPC and rated to 600V/200C, so good up to 1.2kV or so differential between a pair. Compare to prices at Allied: Allied Electronics - Catalog Anyways, here are the listings for 22 awg and 18 awg, which are the two common sizes I use: Belden Hookup Wire Teflon, Silver Coated 22 AWG, 83006 - eBay (item 220381966211 end time Sep-17-09 10:46:44 PDT) Belden Hookup Wire, Teflon, Silver Coated, 18AWG, 83009 - eBay (item 220388181979 end time Aug-28-09 20:03:46 PDT) They will combine shipping and ship overseas as well.

I think that is the gauge of the pins themselves. Anyways, why publish ratings of the 8 pin version with 14 awg wire if it cannot even fit the connectors? http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Products/Datasheets/BM/SWITCHCRAFT/SWITCHCRAFT_INTERCONNECT-WIRE-AND-CABLE_9320142.PDF

Unfortunately, I'd rather not use a new connector, as I need a PCB mount version of relatively low cost... well, that and the PCB is nearly done and I don't want to have to mess with changing it Remember, I need the total diameter to be < 0.265" to fit the cable gland. Looks like I'll just make my own then. I'm wondering if 22 awg might even be too big... stupid "datasheet". I guess I'll track some 22 awg down and just see how that fits and go from there. Just found a really good deal on the Teflon Belden wire I use for hook-up though, so that's a plus.

Well, Pars once said that finding connectors it the (one of the) most boring part of DIY. Well, I can only say that finding a suitable multi-conductor cable might be a very close second. Here's what I'm looking for: total diameter 0.195" - 0.265" 6 conductor 400V will be the maximum potential carried, so I suppose 200V jacket is fine. I'm not sure the maximum conductor diameter, as I cannot find this stated specifically for the Switchcraft EN3 series Here's the "datasheet", perhaps someone else can find it. Switchcraft The funny thing is that they give 14awg ratings here: http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Products/Datasheets/BM/SWITCHCRAFT/SWITCHCRAFT_INTERCONNECT-WIRE-AND-CABLE_9320142.PDF but, there is no way that will fit, so I'm a bit confused...

I absolutely love them:horsey:

Is this going to be an day-by-day update kind of thread? You know how much I love those

I think soapstone would be a better choice than granite and marble. The Indian varieties are denser than granite and marble, as should be cheaper. swt61 would be glad to carve it up for you.

I'll will start shipping the completed kits early next week, as I just received the FedEx tracking number for the boards. If there are any special instructions, address changes, etc. please let me know as soon as possible. Honestly, I'm not exactly sure how everything is grouped for the multiple personality builds, so sending a PM anyways my way won't hurt. Vlad, I'm assuming a single shipment is okay now? Thanks!

Jacob: How hard would it be to implement the attenuator as a stand-alone device? Would you be willing to post the schematic, so I could do the board layout?

Well, I'm still sticking to my "open once" mantra, but I spy some sort of glue inside that hole that could prove to be annoying.

To me bass impact isn't really about decay. However, that aside, bass impact is a slippery slope in my opinion. It usually hides other problems and makes a pair of headphones "impressive" sounding initially, but you never really know what you're missing in a sense, as it's a difficult tradeoff. I found that this sort of trade off is more appropriate when you're dealing with midrange source and amplification, but is more and more unacceptable as you move up the food chain. Not really a criticism, but just something I've found to be true in my experiences (ok, mostly reading on Head-Fi)

definitely doesn't need more bass and all the complications that would go along with that trade off.

no need to remind me. What worries me more is when you peek through hole where the cable goes, as there doesn't seem to be much if any strain relief, as the housing itself doesn't clamp down on the cable. I haven't opened them up to confirm, but I'm only going to open them up once if you know what I mean.

There are a number of these for sale at Mouser (for example, there are ones for the sealed trimmers, that require a different tool), here's one: H-90 Bourns Potentiometer Tools & Hardware

Bourns still makes one: Beezar.com

no, it works fine. I'd just like to try some 12V tubes. It looks like I need to add a jumper from pin 9 of the noval tube that allows the pin to be floated (in the case a 12V tube is used, where pin 9 is a CT) or connected to earth (in the case a 6V tube is used, where pin 9 is a shield), since I cannot connect the CT to ground / earth due to floating the heaters up 60V. Sound reasonable?

These days, many people hold personal offense in higher regard than just about any sort of corporate offense.