luvdunhill

Well, I'm still sticking to my "open once" mantra, but I spy some sort of glue inside that hole that could prove to be annoying.

To me bass impact isn't really about decay. However, that aside, bass impact is a slippery slope in my opinion. It usually hides other problems and makes a pair of headphones "impressive" sounding initially, but you never really know what you're missing in a sense, as it's a difficult tradeoff. I found that this sort of trade off is more appropriate when you're dealing with midrange source and amplification, but is more and more unacceptable as you move up the food chain. Not really a criticism, but just something I've found to be true in my experiences (ok, mostly reading on Head-Fi)

definitely doesn't need more bass and all the complications that would go along with that trade off.

no need to remind me. What worries me more is when you peek through hole where the cable goes, as there doesn't seem to be much if any strain relief, as the housing itself doesn't clamp down on the cable. I haven't opened them up to confirm, but I'm only going to open them up once if you know what I mean.

There are a number of these for sale at Mouser (for example, there are ones for the sealed trimmers, that require a different tool), here's one: H-90 Bourns Potentiometer Tools & Hardware

Bourns still makes one: Beezar.com

no, it works fine. I'd just like to try some 12V tubes. It looks like I need to add a jumper from pin 9 of the noval tube that allows the pin to be floated (in the case a 12V tube is used, where pin 9 is a CT) or connected to earth (in the case a 6V tube is used, where pin 9 is a shield), since I cannot connect the CT to ground / earth due to floating the heaters up 60V. Sound reasonable?

These days, many people hold personal offense in higher regard than just about any sort of corporate offense.

x2. I wouldn't do it. If you want to try, then do so, nothing is stopping you.

Thanks Doug! Currently, I'm using a pair of 100R 0.5W resistors to create an artificial center tap and then this feeds into a voltage divider, where the bottom resistor is bypassed with a 100uF cap and the top resistor is connected to B+. The values are configured to raise the potential around 60V. Then at the tube pins I'm using a pair of 100nF ceramic caps to filter out common mode garbage and RF that can couple to the cathodes. The center of the two ceramic caps is connected to earth. For reference, earth is connected to ground via a pair of diodes and a capacitor. Now, the above arrangement works well and is dead quiet. I'm using the two 0-6.3VAC windings, one for each tube. I've left the shield unconnected, because I didn't know if there would be an issue tying the shield to ground (or earth) if the heater is floated above ground (by ~ 60V). So, I suppose this is my first question, is this okay? Now, lets say I want to use a ECC99 or 12AT7, in which pin 9 is a center tap, not a shield. To do this, I swap out my 0-6.3V heater winding with a 0-12.6V windings as well. Can I really connect this to ground (or, is earth more appropriate) since the heater is raised? Reason says that this needs to be tied to the voltage divider instead. Finally, does any of this change (100R false center tap, raising said center tap up 60V, pair of ceramic caps at socket pins, and whatever arragement you propose for the shield/CT) if this 0-6.3VAC and 0-12.6VAC winding becomes a DC heater? I agree that a +-3.15VDC and +-6.3VDC bipolar DC supply would be better since it takes care of common-mode noise, not just differential mode... but assuming I don't have that luxury, does the above arrangement still work well?

erm, here's what I've used in the past: [url=http://www.soundproofing.org/]SOUNDPROOFING & More Soundproofing!, Super Soundproofing: Practical Noise Control & SoundProofing

perhaps you were hearing your phono cartridge?

I'd recommend asking for the tuple of (headphone, tubes, music track)

Here's hoping the Icelandic custom is similar to the Eastern tradition, where the gifts are given instead of received on one's birthday A round of bread anyone?

damn, I want the pixies back! Anyways, I think they sound pretty sweet stock. I prefer them over the usual dynamic crowd. I'm looking for the extra 5% or so, nothing drastic.

pretty expensive day on the DIY front. Bought a bunch of Neutrik parts at Mouser (mostly various PCB mount XLR jacks and parts for Team 4-pin XLR) and bunch of semiconductors. Upgraded my Diptrace License to the 1000-pin 4-layer version.

excellent then. Perfect for sabotaging other peoples 'stats at meets!

heh, nothing like a T50v1 to draw people out from the woodwork.... er draw the community together. Heck, dBel84 didn't even understand the question and he volunteered So, let me rephrase the question: who has modded the T50v1, or heck even opened one up, or am I going to have to think of something real good to bribe wualta with?

When should we tell her that she got the placebo BHSE? It's really 10 Amphora's fed into each other with 10 separate wall wart supplies.

yes, yes there was. But, I fixed it. So, there.

what's he going to run them off of, his new plasma TV output?

no I haven't in fact. What would you change (besides comfort, obviously)? Like you said, I'm not sure what can be changed ...

More clarity and more forward highs spring to mind, plus a general health check

ooh, fancy: diyAudio.com

Spritzer was trying to clarify the fact that at that time this cable was made, Stax had already introduced the 5-pin jack. I think we both intrepreted your comment "And the reason for the 6-pin jack is that it was what they had" as meaning that Stax only had 6-pin jacks and the 5-pin jack didn't exist yet.