luvdunhill

some people grind down the f-holes a bit to do the same thing... oh, stop the violence !!

probably due to the comparatively poor channel separation of vinyl...

what's his Ebay username?

Steve: I believe he will sell the tape separately, or at least provides a link to where it can be bought...

Dan: go buy a cheap long distance pre-paid calling card and use that

or just say a 50v offset with 400v rails is "acceptable" .. that's only like 10%, right?

I was misquoting Nate slightly, I think he would agree matched tubes are desirable, but hard to match unless you have the exact circuit to match the tubes in...

what, you listened to Nate? I keed, I keeed..... ok, better hide.

Colin: I have more of those itsy-bitsy black heat sinks available, just let me know how many you'd like.

A bottle of Springbank will do. The older the better. Just place on plinth and adjust the plinth until the liquid is level. Then enjoy.

underhung I'd assume?

that rack looks like IKEA Billy The other reminds me of the "Rack of Silence" (ROS, not to be confused with ROUSes)

[url=http://www.bmm-electronics.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=4514]BITUMEX/FG2

well, I can tell you what I'm planning on using next... First, I'm using double weight mass-loaded vinyl as a first layer after doubled birch ply. Then using 1" thick graded wool felt. Ive tried most of the stuff that is marketed for this application, so I figured it's time to try something else, and see what's out there for use in industrial applications, and this is what I decided to try out. Unless you're willing to build the same design over and over, it's very hard to compare building techniques. I have a acquatance who is doing this with the above technique and should have some accelerometer data in a month or so to compare. Another idea is to look at the E.A.R. products and put them between the layers of birch ply in a constrained damping type configuration. In general, I'd say the North Creek building guides have some very unique and effective techniques that you could look at. Also, I think there's a book by Bollock (sp?) on the subject as well, but I've never bothered to track it down.

there are a million different theories on stuffing and lining enclosures, so I won't go there, since it looks like you're trying to go the budget route there (for now). One recommendation I'd have for the next build if there is one is to try remove, and ultimately damp via felt, the rear of where the driver is mounted. You may have to cut out small islands to ensure that the mounting hardware has enough material to be effective. Here's an example: If you want to go crazy, you can damp the basket itself, but I've found that removing material here and damping this location to be very important, especially on midrange and full range drivers. Have fun!

I was at his site for a good chunk of time yesterday in fact, looking over this project: 829B Amplifier http://www.pmillett.com/glowing_hybrid.htm

nope, but I have a few parts I will pick up for you for something else. I need this due to the relay hell that is my preamp, that and the Newhaven Display VFD sucking 440mA max current, which is pretty insane. I didn't really calculate things up front, just guessed... and guessed wrong.

just did the same length flight with a 1 year and 3 year old (and about to return on Thursday. After the 18.5 hour flight, then another leg from NYC to Texas). Pretty exciting. One thing I'd recommend it trying to get seats with power, either AC or the EmPower 15V stuff. You may have to call the airline, but this was a life saver on our flight. Also, Benedryl doesn't always knock kids out, if you are considering that route. My 3 year old just gets more excitable.. kinda strange. Better go with whiskey.

I need to place an order to Farnell through Newark for some parts I cannot get here in the US (an Euro footprint PCB mount transformer). They have a $20 surcharge for this service. Would anyone else like some parts? I'm going to be ordering in the next day or so, so this will be quick. Some particularly worthwhile gems at Farnell are: LCR Components EXFS/HR box polystyrene caps, Newark part number 73K0558 ROE MKP1837 caps, Newark part number 26M1608 Just let me know here in this thread and we can work payment details out later...

Of late, I really like slot ports, if you want to do something slightly more advanced.

Note the fixed holes in the headshell. SME has their own way of doing things, that's for sure.

yeah, insane prices. I *was* half interested in some the OEM custom versions, as he will do FRD/ZMA measurements of the drivers.. but I cannot really afford to be interested... so... My next move speaker wise will probably be a long time coming... I was thinking something like the new Lowther TP1 plans for a mono rig, but that's just too insane, even rationalizing that I'd only need one. Those are way cool speakers though, just don't look at the cost of the drivers!

ah. must have been another n_maher http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=135522 You'd be be surprised what you can do with a small speaker. I have a few builds in the works, one is a 3-way first-order design that's 13.5" high by 7" wide and 12"-14" deep. f3 is in the high 30's with a shallow roll-off...

with some luck I'll be in San Francisco for a conference on Apr.20 - Apr.24. Why not have a meet around then?

that's funny... I actually like low output sources.. I'll try and drive the T50v1 directly with it tonite. I'm guessing it won't be a pretty sight.