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luvdunhill

High Rollers
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Everything posted by luvdunhill

  1. Well, now I know what PPP and PSE means
  2. I wish I could find the post here... anyways, I was shocked to see the cases myself. To ward of the inevitable question of cost, I don't remember, but contact the seller on that page. The Woo cases are pretty much top notch in my book, very well built.
  3. hum.. ok.. BTW, interesting looking amp here: [url=http://6moons.com/audioreviews/westernreserve/westernreserve.html]6moons audioreviews: Western Reserve Audio Design WRAD
  4. I feel that I should report these posts as spam.. I mean, look at this guys past posts...
  5. I'm not sure who questioned this, but look at this for sale ad: diyAudio Forums - Tube amp case - Page 1 Also, I saw the same chassis for sale in China, but didn't take any pics ...
  6. do you have the Amphenol part number?
  7. does anyone happen to know where one can get an official drawing of the Stax plug and socket? Or, if the Amphenol stuff is indeed an exact fit, is there a technical drawing of these part numbers?
  8. yeah, but it's the covert styrofoam cups that masquerade as cable elevators that are the tough ones to spot.
  9. usually an experienced tech can move the tone to a quarter-pitch, but I agree, why bother, who needs to play Tzigane or Vieuxtemps anyways...
  10. stocked up on some tweaks for my turntable: Elemental Voice Hi-Fi Products
  11. some people grind down the f-holes a bit to do the same thing... oh, stop the violence !!
  12. probably due to the comparatively poor channel separation of vinyl...
  13. what's his Ebay username?
  14. Steve: I believe he will sell the tape separately, or at least provides a link to where it can be bought...
  15. Dan: go buy a cheap long distance pre-paid calling card and use that
  16. or just say a 50v offset with 400v rails is "acceptable" .. that's only like 10%, right?
  17. I was misquoting Nate slightly, I think he would agree matched tubes are desirable, but hard to match unless you have the exact circuit to match the tubes in...
  18. what, you listened to Nate? I keed, I keeed..... ok, better hide.
  19. Colin: I have more of those itsy-bitsy black heat sinks available, just let me know how many you'd like.
  20. A bottle of Springbank will do. The older the better. Just place on plinth and adjust the plinth until the liquid is level. Then enjoy.
  21. underhung I'd assume?
  22. that rack looks like IKEA Billy The other reminds me of the "Rack of Silence" (ROS, not to be confused with ROUSes)
  23. [url=http://www.bmm-electronics.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=4514]BITUMEX/FG2
  24. well, I can tell you what I'm planning on using next... First, I'm using double weight mass-loaded vinyl as a first layer after doubled birch ply. Then using 1" thick graded wool felt. Ive tried most of the stuff that is marketed for this application, so I figured it's time to try something else, and see what's out there for use in industrial applications, and this is what I decided to try out. Unless you're willing to build the same design over and over, it's very hard to compare building techniques. I have a acquatance who is doing this with the above technique and should have some accelerometer data in a month or so to compare. Another idea is to look at the E.A.R. products and put them between the layers of birch ply in a constrained damping type configuration. In general, I'd say the North Creek building guides have some very unique and effective techniques that you could look at. Also, I think there's a book by Bollock (sp?) on the subject as well, but I've never bothered to track it down.
  25. there are a million different theories on stuffing and lining enclosures, so I won't go there, since it looks like you're trying to go the budget route there (for now). One recommendation I'd have for the next build if there is one is to try remove, and ultimately damp via felt, the rear of where the driver is mounted. You may have to cut out small islands to ensure that the mounting hardware has enough material to be effective. Here's an example: If you want to go crazy, you can damp the basket itself, but I've found that removing material here and damping this location to be very important, especially on midrange and full range drivers. Have fun!
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