luvdunhill

Looks like I only have clearance issues with some interference from the rectifier heat sinks. Not bad for no fancy CAD time wasting

The moment of truth - got in a rear panel for a super dense amplifier project, which houses two front ends that wires up to different output stages. Hopefully I will have time tomorrow to get the output stage bolted onto the heat sink to see if everything fits. It will be very close! Missing a few M3 screws and the switches, but those will be ordered next part run, but more or less everything is installed! Edit: not quite - there are pluggable buffers in front of the transformers that would block view of the relay - I need to add those in. Hopefully an update tomorrow when all fits!

Thankfully I have never been on this FOTM train.

What do the Omega NATOs go for on the used market?

I love the infrared burner and actually do use the rotisserie attachment. I am stuck in work hell but can give you my model info and more details later tonite.

Maybe plant them at Stretch’s House?

Food

More re-working the schematic, mostly around the USB input. The wrinkle is the 4DSystems OLED displays want 5V and I need 3.3V for USB compliance, while still supporting higher voltage relays. It should be a pretty flexible board when I am done. Now the main issue is dealing with the oh so large 0805 caps in high density trace regions. I see why Kerry used small caps (0603?) right around the uC in his photo above!

I am a big fan of Napoleon. Agree on getting as much stainless steel as you can - holds up so much better.

Thanks Kerry! If anyone is following along at home, here's the Atmel version of this part - CSTCE8M00G52-R0. It is NRND though

Well, I have some space left on the board! I am seriously considering adding one of these to the bottom: https://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/MAX11301.pdf I think I can keep it all 2-layer as well

Getting this on a two layer board the same size as the PS will be fun. Any suggestions on a crystal that is smaller and perhaps doesn’t need external components? Smaller opto isolator recommendation? Don’t need anything fancy will just accept DC voltage for the trigger input.

Ok, here's the schematic for the control board. A few questions: 1.) I've never used a MOSFET pull-up in the manner described on the 1-Wire circuit. Does this look correct? I figured I might want a dozen or so external temperature sensors, so I wanted to beef this up 2.) In general, am I using the "right" uC pins? I tended to randomly assign them, but I know that there are specific pins suited for different things (ADC, D, UART, etc.). A pair of eyes on this would be great. 3.) I'd like to use this bootloader, https://github.com/micronucleus/micronucleus. Any reason to think this wouldn't be compatible? It looks like it might need an external crystal, I have that. 4.) Eyes on the MOSFET relay driver? I wanted to be able to drive high current things like SSRs, etc. 5.) Other features? Better name?

Power supply boards showed up! I haven’t placed the order for the AC/DC modules, but had these EI transformers around and they fit just fine.

Pfff... needs Dr. Wood logo somewhere

https://sme.co.uk/2018/05/01/sme-limited-acquires-the-garrard-audio-brand/

For the feedback cap? The original schematic has this as 10uF?

Ok, three on the way. Next up is the control board!

Since when did people care about speaker building here? Heh. I want to get back and measure the speakers and can post info here - I did a similar speaker with Jordan JX92S a while back and these are similar idea but larger box. I can post both designs if folks care. I have a third design with Raidho ribbon but screwed up the boxes and haven’t gotten around to fashioning some nice pieces of wood to hide the mistake (I mixed up the top and bottom of the speaker when working on some stand attachment mechanism) I should do that sometime!

Exactly. I worked carefully with the do not allow traces regions on the switchers and they will work just fine and it turns out to be a useful little board. I think I need to mirror V1 (MOV suggested for 220V operation), add an mains input label, and change the 5V output label to Vr (in case a 3.3V regulator or other fixed output regulator that works with low ESR caps, such as the LP2992, is used). A little bit more copper for the regulator would be nice as heat is dissipates through its pins. Also need to add polarity makers to the caps - I didn’t have this size in my library, oddly enough. I will make the changes this afternoon and order 3 and make them up. I need to double check that the 20A relay I am eyeing will fit on the same dimensioned board. The other parts are all SMD, including the micro controller so they will fit in a square inch top and bottom.

ok, here's a generic auxiliary power supply. what does anyone think? any additional features you would like?

It’s a ported box, a bit smaller than 0.75 cu ft. Dayton Audio with BG ribbon. I can post more info in a bit, heading out of the house.

Also, both those drivers are magneticly shielded - so no fear putting sensitive things nearby [emoji4] First time really pushing the boundary of a woofer up to the higher end, had to control cone breakup in the crossover, but curious how it ends up. One huge benefit is a wide sweet spot and great imaging. It does simulate well, that’s all that counts, right?