luvdunhill

Cheers Antonio!

After adding some isolation to my speakers: .. and new power isolation unit which can run all three amps of mine! Sadly, the door hinge is in the way, which means I have to take the back door of the rack off and slide it back a few extra inches

Thank you! I'm trying to push the boundaries around spacing a pair of EL34 output tubes pretty close to each other. It seems standard minimum recommendation is spacing of 1.5 times the envelope diameter. The EL34 is 33.3mm and I'd like to space them 1" apart (2" center-to-center). What about rotating one 90 degrees of the other, or another specific orientation, as the heat dissipation patterns are directional, I'd think. Do you have any guidance on positioning, assuming I'd like to get them pretty close together - like you see on Atma-Sphere, etc?

Can anyone give me the guidelines for drawing the CMC octal socket? The diameter of the circle and pin diameter should suffice.

Just basic service.

Any recommendations on a specific US Omega Service Center (there are a number listed on their website) and sending direct versus hitting up my closest boutique and going through them?

Not a great picture, but Also, any info on how to remove bracelet marks common to getting during typing on my MacBook? It’s a brushed bracelet on a Grand Seiko. I figured a video and a product link would work. The bracelet was recently serviced (Seiko USA Service Center did a great job, in fact they have a second Grand Seiko of mine now) and just a few light marks. (The strap is from the Moonwatch big box set - all-Black with Stainless hardware, no fabric keepers)

So, this Omega NATO is insanely nice. That is all.

The brackets need to be better secured to the heatsinks. Is there a screw head on the fin side of the heat sink, or a blind hole with a threaded post attached?

2015 Cohiba Siglo VI

I have been looking at Alpina lately. I like their designs quite a bit.

Blasphemy! 2/3rds of the trilogy and not the best option?

I just paid $1.55 for one RN60D resistor at Digikey. Heh.

Now folks can tell you why this method is inferior. To me it just tastes better. The one trick I need to get better is doing this times 6 at different final temperatures. I seem to lack coordination to do this.

Looks like I only have clearance issues with some interference from the rectifier heat sinks. Not bad for no fancy CAD time wasting

The moment of truth - got in a rear panel for a super dense amplifier project, which houses two front ends that wires up to different output stages. Hopefully I will have time tomorrow to get the output stage bolted onto the heat sink to see if everything fits. It will be very close! Missing a few M3 screws and the switches, but those will be ordered next part run, but more or less everything is installed! Edit: not quite - there are pluggable buffers in front of the transformers that would block view of the relay - I need to add those in. Hopefully an update tomorrow when all fits!

Thankfully I have never been on this FOTM train.

What do the Omega NATOs go for on the used market?

I love the infrared burner and actually do use the rotisserie attachment. I am stuck in work hell but can give you my model info and more details later tonite.

Maybe plant them at Stretch’s House?

Food

More re-working the schematic, mostly around the USB input. The wrinkle is the 4DSystems OLED displays want 5V and I need 3.3V for USB compliance, while still supporting higher voltage relays. It should be a pretty flexible board when I am done. Now the main issue is dealing with the oh so large 0805 caps in high density trace regions. I see why Kerry used small caps (0603?) right around the uC in his photo above!

I am a big fan of Napoleon. Agree on getting as much stainless steel as you can - holds up so much better.

Thanks Kerry! If anyone is following along at home, here's the Atmel version of this part - CSTCE8M00G52-R0. It is NRND though