luvdunhill

doesn't seem like it be an issue to me. Ceramic sockets should be fine.

I think this would make a snazzy preamp myself, perhaps using the 2sk389/2sj109 as input jfets instead, er and remove the 500 ohm resistors.... [img width=121 height=150 alt=GRFE]http://www.head-case.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=2349&g2_serialNumber=2&g2_GALLERYSID=07294709821172ddd05f5fcbe96431fa

sorry, I meant to quote deepak's question

try and find a local engraver that has a plasma cutter. People who do ceramic tile etching for custom installations usually have one, for example.

Benz has a very nice trade-in program, that you can benefit from.

perhaps the iron isn't heating up enough? Bad heating element? Bad solder is unlikely, but go buy some of the $1 stuff from Rat Shack and see how that works.

usually this is due to a dirty tip. Is this tip "wet" i.e. nice and shiny, or dull? If the latter, than scrub it hard on the wet sponge, tin, repeat 10 times or so. If this doesn't help, then you may need to sand down the tip a bit (perferably using a approved device by your iron maker), or get a new tip all together.

a couple cool projects have popped up recently, one by Papa himself and one by John Curl's number one fan, Grey: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=120673 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1484933#post1484933 Just figured someone around here might be interested!

nice little amp. I've heard one powering some Totems and it sounded good!

I thought about it some more... I think whatever the anode voltage is plus max swing should be sufficient... they are after all coupling caps.

I've had both orange drops and jensens, which are around 600v. Why would 600v be needed for a coupling cap?

oh, another option would be going from 0.33uF to .47uF, in which case 600V caps are available.

hey, I was wonder if a 400 VDC rated cap would be suitable for replacing the interstage coupling caps in my MPX3 SE? There are 2 caps. I got a tip from Mr. Hansen about a line of capacitors I'd like to try, just don't know how to go about verifying they will work.

What about stainless steel perforated sheets: http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=1002&step=2&top_cat=1

maybe that should have been "pink noise >:D"

5AR4 seems much more sane now. If you're using psud2, then checking for current saturation in the choke should be easy. High current is why dual core chokes are often used, like LL1673. I personally think a dual core choke would be more appropriate for the current you're talking about. Concerning the first capacitor, be wary of heavy AC charge current if you're using something larger than 33uF or so. If you push this, both the lifetime of the tube and the cap can suffer. The circuit I was experimenting had problems with hum when the input capacitor go too large. I found that using a series limiting resistor to control peak in-rush current helped. This is usually calculated from the coil resistance of the transformer and then adding a small resistance inline to reach some target value for the rectifier used. Check the datasheet to determine this. Also, the sound was heavily influence by the grounding arrangement. Most important seemed to be the diode connections. Remember, anything connected to them will radiate magnetic field, so keep the wires short and close to the chassis. This really helped the sound, IMHO. This is about the extent of my experience on the matter I'm definitely not an expert, just a tinkerer.

cool. I just went down an almost identical path 6 months ago and wussed out buying the parts for something, when in my mind there were red flags. I didn't really know anyone who was willing to help me with it, so I ditched it.

pink noise?

hey, where are you guys buying those Cardas Sennheiser connectors? I'd like to buy a set from someone/somewhere.

here I thought you were interested in helping me learn ... oh well, you're still a decent guy in my book.

$200 worth of Fairchild IRFP240 and Fairchild IRFP9240 >

thanks for being so understanding Nate

edit: seems to me you're going to have arcing issues with the 5AR4 from exceeding it's PIV and in order to get that choke to work, you'll probably exceed the recommended input cap for the 5AR4 as well. If at all possible, I'd like to learn why this will work

"OTOH, if a pseudo choke I/P filter, with its "fudge factor" cap. is employed, you can safely draw a bit more current" there were more posts I found.. anyways, if there is an open Q&A at some point, I'd be interested to learn more.

yes. I looked at the 193Q and found some people saying that 220mA or so was more reasonable to expect. Here's one such post: http://www.audioasylum.com/cgi/t.mpl?f=tubediy&m=139326 I suppose I lack the experience in this area to weed through random crap on the web and pretty much believe everything I read