luvdunhill

Nice tuner, especially if you paid $25 for it

joy? more like a curse.... heh.. well-said though.

those remind me of old TRW caps... Someone with a few more grey hairs / soldering iron burns should comment.

lol, even Stax is running out of the dual parts

I'd be interested in knowing how this can be done (safely)

my boss would like a good headphone recommendation. He's looking for a good closed 'phone with velour pads. He has a pair of Beyers that he doesn't like as they are too bass heavy. He also has a HD650, but feels they're bass light and needs something that is closed. He also has a pair of AKG that he likes, but they have pleather pads. He'd be open to retrofitting pads to the AKG, as he likes them. I'm a bit out of my element here, so I figured I'd ask around... He didn't go into much detail, but he did say that he uses them with a mixer. I suppose I'm not sure what even fits the bill, so I'd be more interested in a list of options than recommendations, though the latter would be appreciated as well.

congrats on the new kit Steve

pretty much...

Burn-in for speaker drivers is well-documented. Changes in Thiel-Small parameters can easily be measured. Interesting thing is, while there are changes, they are somewhat proportional. I always burn-in drivers with 24 hours of low-frequency signal and then stick them back in my measuring jig and recalculate TS parameters. After this, there really isn't any measurable difference, and the TS parameters don't change significantly, or at least they change below my measuring capabilities. As for amplifiers and what not, I always "burn-in" new gear, but for me this is more a matter of adjusting operating points. I try and simulate the final operating environment of the amplifier as much as possible (i.e. cased up and on my rack). I feel this is worthwhile, but YMMV. For turntable cartridges, the suspension definitely settles in over time. This is pretty obvious, as you have to fight with tracking weight, and other parameters during this time. Again, pretty measurable changes. But then again, these parameters also change with temperature and humidity. I have to readjust my cartridge every 3 months or so, I've found. Other than that, who knows. I hear things but usually I'm changing more than one thing so it's hard to pin down. I tend to say, why not do it...

I think this is debatable whether this is from abuse, or just lots of use.

looks like the output stage on the B-52 to me... know we know where Ray got that idea...

I suppose "Die K

what type of caps have you tried? polystyrene, silver mica, ceramic, etc.?

nope, I've seen them for $2 each at some point.

after you get used to it, I'd recommend try to track down a NOS Russian 6H6P to sub with the 6H30. I don't know if people use it in this particular amp, but I've subbed it into BAT gear and I vastly preferred it.

comparisons or I press this little red button ...

of course it's mil-spec ... I just offered the E-bay guy $10 and he accepted. I'll send some to Boo in case she wants to start up a different kind of recabling service

oooh... NOS surgical silk

when you say non-absorbable silk, would something like this qualify: http://www.recycledgoods.com/item/9266.aspx It's $10 shipping though... oops, it's only 18" ... aah, here's some

hey guys, I'm having problem getting a M-Audio Firewire Audiophile working with foobar.. I'm getting wierd crackling when typing, moving mouse, scroll wheel, etc. I'm not sure really what to try. I just installed the Vista drivers from M-Audio and installed the newest version of foobar... that's about it I see ASIO, KS, and other options for output device, and randomly trying stuff didn't seem to help. Any pointers?

that's crazy high compared to my Muse. Steve listened to it and was like .. It's 1.99v XLR. Crazy when your analog frontend has more gain than your digital player...

could anyone grab a few meters of surgical silk for me? I'd like to use it as a turntable belt... I know there are doctors in the audience

yes... for the zapfilter psu, I used Mills resistors, and Nichicon Fine Gold capacitors. Identical values as stock. I believe I used 11DQ10 diodes as well (a fav of mine). Bypassed the 4 x 2 output caps in the Opus, and bypassed the caps after the 1:1 transformer on the CS receiver board (and a bunch of resistors). I left an (optional) single cap there, per the datasheet recommendation before the transformer on the positive input. Wire was indeed the vhaudio wire for signal and then 18ga Auric hook-up for power. I also used some of the newer (somehow cheaper) silver XLR jacks from Neutrik. Part number NC3FD-LX. Finally, I changed the umbilical cable to "non circular hole cutter tech approved" Neotech NES-3004. Added an Otto and another input on the amp.... Then the usual pixie dust and incantations, and a drop of Ray's blood mixed with a fertile chinchilla (this is key). I find it ironic that all of Steve's gear "broke" while we were testing..... fierce_freak: I just had the luxury to listen to gear and play with it. Nobody does this the first time around anyways. Maybe I'll get the Menace and be able to ditch those big resistors one thing I did, probably just because of my OC-nature is re-bias the amp with the lid on using a bunch of clip on probes. There was a good bit of change in the pots, believe it or not. spritzer: isn't the vhaudio wire and the jupiter wire the same thing? I was under the impression it was...

yup, yup, you stole my thunder Also, multidriver systems don't have more complex crossovers, that's sorta the point. Anyways, with regards to wanting an electrostatic sounding speaker, try Vandersteen, Thiel, Green Mountain Audio, Dunlavy, etc. in addition to the usual 'stat suspects.