luvdunhill

Complication. Why involve a relay when you don't really need to? If we want to talk about a power amp with a 1kV toroid and mF of capacitance, sure lets talk. That's not what we have here.

This depends on the inrush current which is a function of the VA of the transformer and the amount of capacitance in the PSU. My speculation, is that Spritzer oversizes his fuses a bit to not need a thermistor. I use VA/line * 1.33 to size the fuse. Then choose slo-blo. If this works, leave it without a thermistor. If it doesn't, use something like a CL60 for a 300VA or so transformer and adjust up or down from here depending on what sort of capacitance you have. It's a rule of thumb. I like fuse ratings as absolutely small as possible. Some people just keep increasing the size until it works. YMMV.

With 230V I would put it "between" the two primaries, if you have dual primaries and in series otherwise.

If this is the case and your ears aren't lying, you need to find a better source.

The drain and source are interchangeable. Seems odd, but most jfets have this property.

Either a good meter directly (use AC scale on finest setting) or a way to accurately amplify the AC component of the signal (and block DC)

http://www.cordellaudio.com/JFETs/LSK489appnote.pdf

Maybe new ears?

I assume neither is network unlocked? If so, prepaid SIM would be a good option.

The negative of Delrin is torsional strength.

You mean if you don't click on the multicore benchmarks?

But you have more than double the CPU power with the mini, correct?

Cool they offer two point matching at customer defined operating points. I would try them. Unfortunately I wouldn't call those prices "not cheap", as if they can deliver the value add service they claim, $150/ea seems reasonable to me.

I don't know, do they? Does Mouser?

I think that depends on volume discounts.

I wonder if someone can help me. I have a NC1 AT&T S4 rooted with safestrap installed. I cannot instal AOSP or >4.4.2 from what I understand and chose graviton. Issue is I cannot get wifi working as likely the module was too large to include into the base image. I have a working backup. How can I extract the working NC1 modules (/lib?) and create a modules.zip for use? Alternatively, any safestrap builds that will work out of the box for me?

I have the very first version.

Wow good job. You are nearly identical to the design: 19.96mA assuming your 510 resistor is exact. If everything measures good (offset and balance) I would say you are perfect. If not, adjust the 6.2k (up to remove positive offset) resistor and I bet you can get within mV or so.

JoaMat/Inu: when using LSK389 what are the voltages at all 6 pins with respect to ground? I might be able to suggest a better way to do this.

Yay! Adjustment of this amp is like dancing on a blade's edge. What about the measurements in #3524 as recompense? :)

Now I am listening totally selfish request but is the 1K trimmer in the exact same location in reference to a mounting hole? I have a hole directly over trimmer locations (also TPs, and LEDs on the bottom, but that doesn't matter as much) as to adjust the amp with the lid on..

Slightly change the pot in one of the batteries and monitor the output. Find the point it jumps back down.

The 10V version has a max voltage noise of 6uV. LEDs should be an order of magnitude less. The things I am not sure of are current noise and tempco. Since LEDs share similar geometry to transistors, this might actually be a case to use LEDs. I just don't know enough to definitely declare the change a winner, other than the goals that JoaMat set out to achieve.

Yes, if you make the other changes to the batteries.