Kerry

Really Nice Geoff! Congrats

Sounds like a fun project. Looking forward to seeing the final results

The Blue Hawaii PS will work fine with the grounded grid. The requirements for the +/-15V supply are identical.

I've only built the prior version of the smaller board (before the relays were flipped). Everything works well on that version. I've got the latest board ready to build. Just need some time. Let us know if you get it working.

Not sure if you come onto this site, but Happy Birthday Aaron

That's a possibility for the next round. The ones from ebay have solder mask on the back. We're going to be dissipating under 1W for each sink and I think it will be ok, but it is a question that will be answered shortly I took a look at the ones that AMB is doing sig78xx/79xx. I'm unclear whether he has mask on the back side. Lots of good data on the forum regarding temperature rise for various power levels / heat sinks.

One week turn around... Not bad Here's the board with 2oz copper. I still need to finalize the BOM and get an order in.

Beautiful! That is a nice present you've bought yourself

Thanks I'm using Fusion 360 for all of my modeling. It's nice because it has CAM capabilities as well so I can build all of the tool paths right from the same program. I've gotten good at it now. I made all the part models including the tubes myself. Still need to fill in the insides of the tubes. Another benefit, is that by assembling all of the parts I can see if anything is misaligned or bumps into something else.

So here's some renders of the amp and PS. I've got to mill out the amp plate now

Congrats! You have so many beautiful headphones to use with this amp

Completely true

Thanks. The design was done in DipTrace v3. I've been using it for a while and like it.

Not going to be easy. I started thinking about it. A couple of daughter boards might do the trick. It would be nice to have a modular solution.

We'll have to look into options. I've sent the board out to manufacturing so we can prototype it

I had some comments back so I've made the following changes: I reversed the SE and balanced outputs I fixed a mistake in the schematic for the negative off-board voltage regulator Thanks to Kevin (of course), Birgir, Marshall and Joachim for your feedback Here's what might be the final...

Pretty close to final layout...

Very interesting. It took me a bit to figure out what I was looking at. Nice! I want to build that into my smart phone

We'll make sure to release a few into the wild

Not looking to go into business. Just having fun

I'd love the help I'll PM you. Edit: It will have a chassis ground. I've got a couple of ideas. Here's some renderings I did of the chassis. Pretty cool...

Ok. I need to add labels, but otherwise I think I've got this where I want it to be. I changed out the power switch for a thinner one and change the power led to a through hole. Also, I went back to a 4 pin XLR jack for the output. Since I also have a 1/4" phono jack, this should not be an issue. I've also added additional patterns for the +/- regulators from ebay as well as standup heatsinks for them. I don't have a specific chassis identified, but the FPE custom enclosures will work. I'll likely mill mine myself. Any other thoughts?

The switchers are Mean Well IRM-10-24. I'm going to add pins for the regulator Joachim is showing above. They have the negative regulator as well. I just happened to go onto AMB's website and he is also working on a set of small TO-220 boards for the +/- regulators using the same TI chips. Seems like this is going to be a popular option

I've been meaning to get to this for the last year or so. I was motivated to see if I could get this down in size The current board is 4.8" x 6.8" and is an all in one. Everything from power inlet to outputs. I still have a few things I'd like to get to, including having an option for the regulators to be off-board as well. I'm using some Mean Well switchers at 24V for the +/- rails then using the TPS7A4700 / TPS7A33 for a second stage regulation down to +/- 20V. These regulators have 4uV / 16uV noise respectively (not bad). There's a switch in front that allows you to change between SE and Balanced inputs via some relays. Here are some pics of where it stands so far...

Happy belated birthday!