n_maher

Soundproofing, in my experience, is pretty much impossible to accomplish after something has already been built. And if you're over amplifying the 650s to combat ambient noise then the solution is closed headphones. It doesn't matter how good something sounds if it ultimately ends up destroying your hearing.

Anyone seriously looking for a source might think about having a go at this.

About once every 6 weeks or so a group of anywhere from 5 to 8 of us gets together for a night of COD2 LAN gaming. It is fun to a degree that is not possible to convey through text. I'm seriously bummed that all the new COD releases have been console only.

COD?

Damn you guys and all your gaming system talk. I was already teetering on the brink of picking up a PS-2 and this thread pushed me over the edge. Found a killer deal on craigslist locally that includes not only the game that wanted (GT4) but this:

The hotglue isn't the problem with the RS-1s, it's the epoxy that they use to put the driver into the solid, one piece wooden housing.

If I remember correctly the biggest problem with the RS-1s is that the driver housing is a single piece unlike other Graods with have a driver housing and then the "cup" portion that are simple fastened together with hot glue. In order to recable an RS-1 you have to separate the driver from the wood which is, as your friend so correctly put, a very delicate operation. The glue they use to affix the driver into the housing is not nearly as forgiving as the hot glue they use on the cups. The only person I've ever heard of that successfully did this was doobooloo and in his case it was only because his RS-1s were so old that the drivers were falling out of the enclosures already.

Someone is going to have to explain to me the logic in purchasing his pair at all considering that you can get them NOS for less (assuming this site is real)...

Well the same guy who has the stock pair listed for $250 (he's dropped the price again) also has a modded pair that are sale pending for $400. Jebus, recabled with starquad and a mini plug doesn't add value to a headphone in my book.

Hammond 370HX. Best price I found online was through Angela Instruments, took about a week and a half to get it which isn't bad in my book. You've got email.

While this used to be true it certainly doesn't seem like it lately. I can't believe that there's currently someone asking $280 for a stock pair on Head-Fi, and that's after a couple price drops.

You're not alone. I'd put them up there as one of the few purchases I've made that left me wondering why the hell I'd bothered and what the heck the hype was all about. My list would only echo others: HD600 - occasionally can be found for under $200 and are worth every penny HD580 - modded they sound nearly as good as the 600s did PIMETA - I can't believe how trashed this amp gets considering it's the equal or better of any portable I've heard when properly built and can make a heck of a small office rig. Easily had for under $200.

Thanks man, Netflix it is!

All right, I give up, I'm going to start watching this show. I've got Season 1 ready to go and Season 2 should be, uh, arriving in a few hours so I've got a question - do I need to watch anything in preparation for the first episode? Was there a movie, pilot or otherwise? The reason I ask is that I watched just the first minute or two of '33', which is Season 1 Episode 1 and it very much has a "previously seen on..." vibe to it. Cripes, like I needed another show to watch.

Another Wheatfield update and this seemed like the place to post it. On Pete's advice I decided to mod the amp further, what the hell it's only money. So I ordered up a high-spec Hammond trafo (not cheap, $100+) and prepped for surgery. Replacing the trafo required not only drilling two new holes in the chassis since the new piece is even larger than the original but also enlarging two other existing holes to allow for the wires to be more easily fed down into the belly of the beast. The operation was a complete success and the new trafo is not only silent while it's running and runs much cooler but it looks like the tits with its matte black paint job. I also replaced the stock POS rca connectors with some bling Cardas rhodium bits from the parts box. Time to get back to some quality listening time!

x2

Amen to that, my older brother went to Cornell and my dad and I used to do one day hell runs there and back (from central NH) to pick him up.

I like this Roam.

Why would you want to change it? Dr. Shill says it has "the strongest bass of any HP amp."

It's in the head-fi thread, $250 for the mods, $125 for the cheapest cable. You can go up from there to evidently some piece of virgin baby seal unicorn hair for $225. Good god, as someone said a while back all of this is connecting to a 30ga pin at the dock.

$375 for the mod package (base ALO cable config)! Holy sweet Jesus.

Good to have you hear, Young. And don't worry, for the most part we're a gentle and loving bunch.

Don't know about the jitter specs but it shouldn't matter all that much since my DAC uses an asynchronous sample rate converter that is supposed to greatly reduce (if not eliminate) jitter.

Nah, all their DAC's are NOS-type stuff. The DAC is code named Voldemort, the DAC that shall not be named. Seriously, when I can post details about the DAC I will.

Thanks for all the kind compliments. It was a pretty brutal build as the instructions that came with the kit were pretty lacking. I would like to take a moment to thank Legos for teaching me to learn visually, without that ability this thing would just be a pile of parts and some pcbs. I hope to work with DIY Hifi to create a better set of instructions as right now I'd be hard pressed to recommend the kit to anyone. The technical aspect is simple as can be (well, mostly) just plug parts in where they go, but taking that stack of stuff and getting it all to fit together as intended was a doozy. She's small, but don't let it fool you, I'd be the thing weighs in the neighborhood of 20lbs. And yeah, it's redbook only as far as I know. You can find more information on the kit here. The chassis alone is probably worth half the cost of the kit, the remote is milled from a solid chunk of aluminum (no joke) and all of the buttons used are turned aluminum bits. It's roughly 91/2" wide, 3-1/2" tall and 14" deep. I really like the fact that it, plus my DAC should be able to share shelf. And Haj, given what your current source is you can hardly expect me to feel for you, right?