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goldenreference low voltage power supply

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Considering that you're only .067% off, I'd say you're close enough:D

  • Replies 813
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  • jamesmking
    jamesmking

    Golden Reference LV Build Guide Schematic for the golden reference LV: parts in green are new additions compared to the published schematic pdf in joamats post above. Parts in purple set the

  • So I think this is pretty cool (sorry to toot my own horn, but I can't help it sometimes ).  I've been meaning to miniaturize the GRLV supplies.  I've got them down to boards that are 1.16" (H) x

  • I got the HV sections and bias up and they work perfectly   Here's the board... I've already tested the GRLV boards and they work.  I just have to build another set for this supply. 

Posted Images

If you can find a Fluke 187 or 189 or equivalent.

They range from $200 up to $400.  (yikes)

 

If you want a 6.5 digit benchtop model, an Agilent 34401A is about the best you can get for the princely sum of about $400 up.. (tee hee).

Don't look for the Agilent 3458A 8.5 digit multimeter.

  • 3 months later...

I am trying to make a power supply for my Auralic Aries mini. .

The original one is labelled "switching PS  16v 1A"

 Any idea if the goldenreference can be used for such high current?

Edited by samsie

  • 2 weeks later...

I had mentioned using Schottky rectifiers for this. I think I am going to have a few of these made:

archive_top_small.png

These are setup to take either a D201 axial diode (31DQ10 or equivalent), or also accept a TO220 package like an MUR820. I know the TO220s should probably be oriented 90 degrees from how I have them for airflow, but my intent was the axial Schottky diodes on these.

I home-etched a pair of these and used them in my original Dynalo (headamp board). I used some Mill-Max right angle pins on those (3301-2-14-21-00-00-08-0), and plugged them right into the RS402 bridge holes on the PCB. If anyone with appropriate facilities wanted to compare these noise-wise to the packaged rectifiers, I could send them a pair to test.


3301-2-14-21-00-00-08-0.JPG

EDIT: Added John Swenson snubber across AC primary

Edited by Pars

I think I might plagiarise that idea...

Just a thought, how big is the footprint for R1 and would it make sense to choose a bigger one? (I could be wrong, but it looks like 10mm to me and it also looks like there's space for 12.5mm :D )

 

//UFN

I really like the idea of including the 330R + .022uf snubber on the board. 

Edited by mwl168

I don't think you really need a high power resistor for this.

http://www.diyhifi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1957#p41696

 

Quote

I used Jim's paper as a guide and tested every transformer I had, I came up with the values of 330ohms and .022uf, they worked well for everyone of them. So now I just use those values for everything. I use a carbon comp for the resistor and a polypropylene for the cap. Put them in series and put that network across each secondary. It can make a big difference.

 

I have a bunch of MKP1837 caps laying around. I'll have to measure them but used a 7.5 x 5.5 mm Wima outline, 5.08mm LS for it.

I usually just solder these on the bottom of the board, but figured since I was laying the board out anyway...

Edited by Pars

  • 3 weeks later...
On 2016/1/18 at 7:57 PM, kevin gilmore said:

It does about 1.5 amps

there will be a higher voltage one soon that does 6 amps

Does  the goldenreference  low voltage provide enough juice for Dynahi? Use two for the Dynahi?  I plan to make the Dynahi for the use of HiFiman HE-6.

  • Author

use 2 and make sure the pass transistors have enough heatsink, as in bolted to the main heatsinks

41 minutes ago, FallenAngel said:

Somebody have boards? I'm building the Dynalo MK2 and wanted one :)

There's a group buy going on now: 

 

5 hours ago, chiguy said:

There's a group buy going on now: 

 

 

Cool, signed up, thanks. :)

Folks, if we need a high power golden reference, like, a 350w golden reference (AC tranny), what should we do?

Made up 4 split 15V units, all within .001V, from unmatched resistors, I’m impressed.

:D

 

 

I'll be impressed when I hear your finished Carbons.....    :D

I'm impressed with your post count today ?

If I want more impressed I'll visit your profile ?

My profile..?  

Bald head, stub nose and receding chin......   impressive..?   :o

Is possible add smd type soldering pad at GR LV's backside? smd tantalum capacitor looks are cheaper and easy to source.

maybe just my stupid idea. :(

On 2016/1/30 at 2:25 AM, Pars said:

I had mentioned using Schottky rectifiers for this. I think I am going to have a few of these made:

archive_top_small.png

These are setup to take either a D201 axial diode (31DQ10 or equivalent), or also accept a TO220 package like an MUR820. I know the TO220s should probably be oriented 90 degrees from how I have them for airflow, but my intent was the axial Schottky diodes on these.

I home-etched a pair of these and used them in my original Dynalo (headamp board). I used some Mill-Max right angle pins on those (3301-2-14-21-00-00-08-0), and plugged them right into the RS402 bridge holes on the PCB. If anyone with appropriate facilities wanted to compare these noise-wise to the packaged rectifiers, I could send them a pair to test.


3301-2-14-21-00-00-08-0.JPG

EDIT: Added John Swenson snubber across AC primary

Love this board!

Edited by palchiu

Of course it is possible. I won't be doing it because I already ordered some, and couldn't get this version run because I had already submitted the version quoted. I could put it in and send you either the eagle files or the gerbers if you want.

 

Ooops, Seeeds gerber viewer doesn't appear to be working tonight so can't post a pic. Vertical mounted version, like the ones I home-etched for my Dynalo.

 

 

21 hours ago, palchiu said:

Is possible add smd type soldering pad at GR LV's backside? smd tantalum capacitor looks are cheaper and easy to source.

maybe just my stupid idea. :(

Love this board!

Did you have a particular SMD cap package in mind? Let me know and I will add it.

 

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