Considering that you're only .067% off, I'd say you're close enough

If you can find a Fluke 187 or 189 or equivalent.

They range from $200 up to $400.  (yikes)

 

If you want a 6.5 digit benchtop model, an Agilent 34401A is about the best you can get for the princely sum of about $400 up.. (tee hee).

Don't look for the Agilent 3458A 8.5 digit multimeter.

have a 34401A

want a 3458a or keithely equivalent anyway!

 

Ebay is your friend.......     although what state they are in is debatable.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Agilent-Keysight-8-1-2-digit-3458A-Multimeter-w-certs-data-/252116768354?hash=item3ab3549662

I am trying to make a power supply for my Auralic Aries mini. .

The original one is labelled "switching PS  16v 1A"

 Any idea if the goldenreference can be used for such high current?

Edited January 18, 201610 yr by samsie

It does about 1.5 amps

there will be a higher voltage one soon that does 6 amps

I had mentioned using Schottky rectifiers for this. I think I am going to have a few of these made:

These are setup to take either a D201 axial diode (31DQ10 or equivalent), or also accept a TO220 package like an MUR820. I know the TO220s should probably be oriented 90 degrees from how I have them for airflow, but my intent was the axial Schottky diodes on these.

I home-etched a pair of these and used them in my original Dynalo (headamp board). I used some Mill-Max right angle pins on those (3301-2-14-21-00-00-08-0), and plugged them right into the RS402 bridge holes on the PCB. If anyone with appropriate facilities wanted to compare these noise-wise to the packaged rectifiers, I could send them a pair to test.

EDIT: Added John Swenson snubber across AC primary

Edited January 30, 201610 yr by Pars

I think I might plagiarise that idea...

Just a thought, how big is the footprint for R1 and would it make sense to choose a bigger one? (I could be wrong, but it looks like 10mm to me and it also looks like there's space for 12.5mm )

 

//UFN

I really like the idea of including the 330R + .022uf snubber on the board. 

Edited January 30, 201610 yr by mwl168

I don't think you really need a high power resistor for this.

http://www.diyhifi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1957#p41696

 

Quote

I used Jim's paper as a guide and tested every transformer I had, I came up with the values of 330ohms and .022uf, they worked well for everyone of them. So now I just use those values for everything. I use a carbon comp for the resistor and a polypropylene for the cap. Put them in series and put that network across each secondary. It can make a big difference.

 

I have a bunch of MKP1837 caps laying around. I'll have to measure them but used a 7.5 x 5.5 mm Wima outline, 5.08mm LS for it.

I usually just solder these on the bottom of the board, but figured since I was laying the board out anyway...

Edited January 31, 201610 yr by Pars

On 2016/1/18 at 7:57 PM, kevin gilmore said:

It does about 1.5 amps

there will be a higher voltage one soon that does 6 amps

Does  the goldenreference  low voltage provide enough juice for Dynahi? Use two for the Dynahi?  I plan to make the Dynahi for the use of HiFiman HE-6.

use 2 and make sure the pass transistors have enough heatsink, as in bolted to the main heatsinks

Somebody have boards? I'm building the Dynalo MK2 and wanted one

41 minutes ago, FallenAngel said:

Somebody have boards? I'm building the Dynalo MK2 and wanted one

There's a group buy going on now: 

 

5 hours ago, chiguy said:

There's a group buy going on now: 

 

 

Cool, signed up, thanks.

Folks, if we need a high power golden reference, like, a 350w golden reference (AC tranny), what should we do?

pre-reg driver on the uber2 output board

Made up 4 split 15V units, all within .001V, from unmatched resistors, I’m impressed.

 

 

I'll be impressed when I hear your finished Carbons.....   

I'm impressed with your post count today ?

If I want more impressed I'll visit your profile ?

My profile..?  

Bald head, stub nose and receding chin......   impressive..?  

Is possible add smd type soldering pad at GR LV's backside? smd tantalum capacitor looks are cheaper and easy to source.

maybe just my stupid idea.

On 2016/1/30 at 2:25 AM, Pars said:

I had mentioned using Schottky rectifiers for this. I think I am going to have a few of these made:

These are setup to take either a D201 axial diode (31DQ10 or equivalent), or also accept a TO220 package like an MUR820. I know the TO220s should probably be oriented 90 degrees from how I have them for airflow, but my intent was the axial Schottky diodes on these.

I home-etched a pair of these and used them in my original Dynalo (headamp board). I used some Mill-Max right angle pins on those (3301-2-14-21-00-00-08-0), and plugged them right into the RS402 bridge holes on the PCB. If anyone with appropriate facilities wanted to compare these noise-wise to the packaged rectifiers, I could send them a pair to test.

EDIT: Added John Swenson snubber across AC primary

Love this board!

Edited March 2, 201610 yr by palchiu

Of course it is possible. I won't be doing it because I already ordered some, and couldn't get this version run because I had already submitted the version quoted. I could put it in and send you either the eagle files or the gerbers if you want.

 

Ooops, Seeeds gerber viewer doesn't appear to be working tonight so can't post a pic. Vertical mounted version, like the ones I home-etched for my Dynalo.

 

 

I saw a smd version from China.

21 hours ago, palchiu said:

Is possible add smd type soldering pad at GR LV's backside? smd tantalum capacitor looks are cheaper and easy to source.

maybe just my stupid idea.

Love this board!

Did you have a particular SMD cap package in mind? Let me know and I will add it.