n_maher Posted November 12, 2008 Report Share Posted November 12, 2008 Very nice looking panel, Nate. What's the font used?Thanks Haj, the font is Euro, 5-Stroke. I'm really most pleased with how the volume indicator came out, FPE released a scale generator that is really cool and makes stuff like that possible for those of us not well versed in traditional graphics design programs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted January 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 (edited) so, the little material on this panel to accept threads has become somewhat of a fail, like most of my casing endeavors. So, I was thinking... why not just bond the standoffs permanently to the face plate (there are still threads, so alignment isn't a huge issue)? So, hence my question... Anything particular, such as Lock-Tite/JB Weld/etc. that would work well in this case (blind holes, Aluminum to aluminum, yes lame pun intended) Edited January 17, 2009 by luvdunhill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swt61 Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 so, the little material on this panel to accept threads has become somewhat of a fail, like most of my casing endeavors. So, I was thinking... why not just bond the standoffs permanently to the face plate (there are still threads, so alignment isn't a huge issue)? So, hence my question... Anything particular, such as Lock-Tite/JB Weld/etc. that would work well in this case (blind holes, Aluminum to aluminum, yes lame pun intended) I would think JB Weld would be plenty strong, and somewhat easy to work with. I've used in to bond aluminum together with great results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted January 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2009 well, the JB Weld worked .. kinda.. this was a #3 thread and the JB Weld sorta took up too much room and I couldn't really tell when the screw hit the bottom, and is was tough to screw it in straight. Remember, I have all of 3 threads available.. I just kept turning and ended up with a dimple on one of the screws on the front. doh. The nice thing is, it make a volcano shape around the standoff that seems to be stronger now. I just did it on the standoffs that are holding a small PCB transformer and probably will not do it to the rest. In other news, I need to add vent holes to the top of this thing.. I'm thinking a largish 7/16" hole, as that's the second largest size on my stepper bit, and I need lots of open space, and finally I can get alligator clips in there at this side for adjusting bias and offset. I'm looking at a 8.5" x 8.5" area that I need the holes (for reference, the case is 17" wide) soo.. I need to draw up a pattern today, so I can print it tomorrow, so I can carry it with me to where I can do the deed. So, trying to come up with a hole to hole distance and a stagger pattern, any comments (or templates) are much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted January 22, 2009 Report Share Posted January 22, 2009 So, trying to come up with a hole to hole distance and a stagger pattern, any comments (or templates) are much appreciated CAD services available, if necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted January 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2009 CAD services available, if necessary. bah, this is perfect application for my massive FPE skills Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted January 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2009 how long does it take to drill 150 holes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted January 22, 2009 Report Share Posted January 22, 2009 Way too long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted January 22, 2009 Report Share Posted January 22, 2009 how long does it take to drill 150 holes? A CNC machine? Not that... oh, wait... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted August 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2009 So, working on another panel. This time, everything is PCB mounted. Unfortunately, I cannot get everything to look just right. I'm using a PCB mounted DACT attenuator, and due to the slots in the extrusion, I cannot get it exactly to be at center. Also, I have two switches on the front that are used to control input section. One on the left and one on the right. My question is, what sort of text to I put above / around the switches? On the rear, I label one input "A" and the other input "B". The toggle goes up and down, not side to side. I cannot find anything that looks right to me. I have "Left Input" and "Right Input" over the switches and nothing else at the moment. I'll post the panel later on, as somehow FPE crashed and I lost my work ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted August 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2009 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin Posted August 14, 2009 Report Share Posted August 14, 2009 move Left Input to the Left of the switch and put it on 2 lines Left Input or use smaller text. then put A and B above/below the switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swt61 Posted August 14, 2009 Report Share Posted August 14, 2009 Nice post count Justin! 1,111 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted August 14, 2009 Report Share Posted August 14, 2009 ...and now he's ruined it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Chalk Posted August 14, 2009 Report Share Posted August 14, 2009 One on the left and one on the right. My question is, what sort of text to I put above / around the switches?Alpha/omega? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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