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The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!


spritzer

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Anyone else get their shipping notifications from OnlineComponents for their RK50? I got mine last night, and I still can't believe I bought a $600 pot. My credit card has been screaming for mercy lately... =)

Edited by Horio
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Anyone else get their shipping notifications from OnlineComponents for their RK50? I got mine last night, and I still can't believe I bought a $600 pot. My credit card has been screaming for mercy lately... =)

Nothing here. But I ordered a month after you did, fingers crossed!

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Nothing here. But I ordered a month after you did, fingers crossed!

I think you ordered about the same time as I did. Just got my shipping notice last night, so it shouldn't be too long for yours to be shipped. :P

I'm seriously not looking forward to the custom fees on this one...

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So, I bought some C3675 and A1486 from utsource, after seeing that they have it in stock in cheaper prices than bdent, and that this particular distributor seem legit from comments on diya.

dsc01551oz.th.jpg

I initially thought that all of these are fakes because of the uneven epoxy coating on the back side of the a1486 part; but measuring them gives me a minimum hFe of 30, a maximum of 67, while most of them have a reading about 60.

dsc01631k.th.jpg

Similarly, most of the C3675 I got have a hFe reading around 58-71.

dsc01571i.th.jpg

So both of these devices are within tolerance. Are there any reasons why I should not be using these devices?

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I'm wondering how hot the PSU runs. Going to have the top panel made, right now I only have 2 vent rows at the back, on top of the transformers. Would that be adequate or should I need more venting? The bottom panel also 2 vent columns, not rows though. The panel is 5mm thick, btw.

6002544488_bd16bed74d.jpg

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The power supply pass FETs will give off quite a bit of heat. Also the current sources feeding the zener strings and battery will give off a bit heat. The active battery and resistors will generate a small amount of heat as well.

Basically you need to make sure there is venting above the PS especially the pass FETs. I've found that having additional venting in the top panel (not just over the hottest parts) will help as well.

As far as the bottom goes, it is a good idea to make sure there is enough venting to allow for good air flow. I'm not sure from your description above, but it sounds like you could use some more.

I don't remember which version of the amp you are building and was curious what the 4 large rectangular cut-outs are.

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Returned from hollidays,

and today i finished the powersupply :)

My LM7912 also gave -15V like Gilmore ... but actually a spare TS7912 worked instead

I also had quite some trouble with the +250 rail (i gave only 90V). After some searching, it turned out that i switched the direction on the zener on the FET. Luckily i didnt fry any other parts, so now its working :)

Readings:

+576

+496

+246

-260

-495

-557

+11,87

-12,07

Now on, to quite a lot of wire-work ....

Edited by pedefede
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