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Part Sourcing Assistance/Advice Thread


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Never underestimate the obfuscating twats on diyaudio I asked a question regarding Kemet vs. Vishay-Polytech tantalum-polymer capacitors (since the Vishays are considerably cheaper and appear to

Started one last night, actually.

there needs to be a Mouser Prime service

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as silly as this sounds, I've done a good amount of research (I won't call it listening, for fear of being laughed at TOO hard) and settled on a relay that comes in 24 V version (well other, like 5v etc. but these aren't stocked at Mouser). That being said, yeah I'll try and using my variac and see how low I can go :)

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Hm, quick before-dinner check says you need 19 VDC to operate a 24 VDC relay. So, I have the dropout of a LM317 and bog standard diode drop for rectification... So, perhaps 20 VAC, I think 18 VAC is cutting it too close...

Perhaps a Hammond 229C40 then?

edit: one more question. What's the preferred orientation when using two of the above. Side-by-side on the long dimension, or the short dimension?

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I'm not sure I would trust a threaded part like that given how thin they are. But you could always just tap the holes that are there for the next larger screw. I'm guessing that they'd accept a 6-32 tap, but it depends on the model as some I've seen have already had holes that large.

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Good place to pick up a variac around Chicago? My brother's Counterpoint power amp decided it might be a good time start on fire :eek:, and I am trying to fix it (with some excellent help on diya). I'll need a variac of bring it up slowly to determine whether or not the output devices are still good. Something around 10A would be great, though I was advised that something smaller (s low as 2.5A or so) will work as long as I don't take it up to full voltage on the variac.

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Good place to pick up a variac around Chicago? My brother's Counterpoint power amp decided it might be a good time start on fire :eek:, and I am trying to fix it (with some excellent help on diya). I'll need a variac of bring it up slowly to determine whether or not the output devices are still good. Something around 10A would be great, though I was advised that something smaller (s low as 2.5A or so) will work as long as I don't take it up to full voltage on the variac.

Variable AC Output Transformer MAX.20A (Metered Variac) - eBay (item 120631655275 end time Nov-07-10 14:34:08 PST)

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I'm not sure I would trust a threaded part like that given how thin they are. But you could always just tap the holes that are there for the next larger screw. I'm guessing that they'd accept a 6-32 tap, but it depends on the model as some I've seen have already had holes that large.

I think it'd be fine if they're still just used for small wire bundles, since there will be virtually no load on them. I've never actually tried it that way though, anytime I've used screws on those things it's going in from the top into sheetmetal.

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I think it'd be fine if they're still just used for small wire bundles, since there will be virtually no load on them. I've never actually tried it that way though, anytime I've used screws on those things it's going in from the top into sheetmetal.

Yup, for wire bundles it'd work, but I'm thinking more of big motor run oil or film applications. :)

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Ehh... for big caps like that I would be looking at other means to secure them anyways.

I think with one on both side of the cap at at least two locations along the length of the cap they could make a very good hold down system. Horizontal cap clamps are few and far between in my experience.

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I think with one on both side of the cap at at least two locations along the length of the cap they could make a very good hold down system. Horizontal cap clamps are few and far between in my experience.

I'm just thinking about adhesive coming loose over time or the plastic stripping off the screw on a hard jolt during shipping. Maybe if you make the screws long enough to stick up past the top of the tie holder and add some nuts to it, then it would be more UPS-proof. :)

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I'm just thinking about adhesive coming loose over time or the plastic stripping off the screw on a hard jolt during shipping. Maybe if you make the screws long enough to stick up past the top of the tie holder and add some nuts to it, then it would be more UPS-proof. :)

Oh, I definitely wouldn't be counting on either the adhesive or a threaded portion of plastic. I'd definitely through bolt with lock nuts for the proposed application.

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