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The Headcase Stax thread


thrice
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Spritzer, have you or anyone else confirmed that the recent production SR-007A model has been "fixed" as well? IIRC, it was the SR-007A model which you had in possession at the time that exhibited the flaws in the bass and midrange, correct? If not then perhaps there is a difference between the SR-007A model and the SR-007MK2 model. Just a thought.

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Spritzer, have you or anyone else confirmed that the recent production SR-007A model has been "fixed" as well? IIRC, it was the SR-007A model which you had in possession at the time that exhibited the flaws in the bass and midrange, correct? If not then perhaps there is a difference between the SR-007A model and the SR-007MK2 model. Just a thought.

I believe the SR-007 MK2 have the port near the earpads as well.

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Have a Lambda Nova Sig that has globs more glue on them than necessary. When it gets warm, or even the phone not used for an extended period of time, the pads slide out of place (too much glue and not evenly spread). Irritating, but I'm also worried about damage with the glue landing incorrect places. Going to be ordering new pads soon, but wanted to ask if anyone has a suggestion for getting the excess glue off? A cloth type maybe? Narrowing down my phone collection and although I slightly prefer the Novas to the regular Lambda Sigs, this glue issue has me reconsidering what stays and goes. Any help much appreciated.

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Have a Lambda Nova Sig that has globs more glue on them than necessary. When it gets warm, or even the phone not used for an extended period of time, the pads slide out of place (too much glue and not evenly spread). Irritating, but I'm also worried about damage with the glue landing incorrect places. Going to be ordering new pads soon, but wanted to ask if anyone has a suggestion for getting the excess glue off? A cloth type maybe? Narrowing down my phone collection and although I slightly prefer the Novas to the regular Lambda Sigs, this glue issue has me reconsidering what stays and goes. Any help much appreciated.

It's just a solid piece of metal that the glue holds the pads to. You can probably just rub the glue off with your fingers or whatever other method that won't scratch the metal, and make sure the rubbed off glue doesn't fall into the drivers as it may be hard to get out through the screen.

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Have a Lambda Nova Sig that has globs more glue on them than necessary. When it gets warm, or even the phone not used for an extended period of time, the pads slide out of place (too much glue and not evenly spread). Irritating, but I'm also worried about damage with the glue landing incorrect places. Going to be ordering new pads soon, but wanted to ask if anyone has a suggestion for getting the excess glue off? A cloth type maybe? Narrowing down my phone collection and although I slightly prefer the Novas to the regular Lambda Sigs, this glue issue has me reconsidering what stays and goes. Any help much appreciated.

Maybe Goo Gone?

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Spritzer, have you or anyone else confirmed that the recent production SR-007A model has been "fixed" as well? IIRC, it was the SR-007A model which you had in possession at the time that exhibited the flaws in the bass and midrange, correct? If not then perhaps there is a difference between the SR-007A model and the SR-007MK2 model. Just a thought.

I had 3 Mk2's and 3 A's, all of which were identical and had the same issues. All of them "fixed" and still with the original buyers. :)

Maybe they are following this thread...

...or reading my mind. Either way works for me... :D

Have a Lambda Nova Sig that has globs more glue on them than necessary. When it gets warm, or even the phone not used for an extended period of time, the pads slide out of place (too much glue and not evenly spread). Irritating, but I'm also worried about damage with the glue landing incorrect places. Going to be ordering new pads soon, but wanted to ask if anyone has a suggestion for getting the excess glue off? A cloth type maybe? Narrowing down my phone collection and although I slightly prefer the Novas to the regular Lambda Sigs, this glue issue has me reconsidering what stays and goes. Any help much appreciated.

I usually try to scrape off as much glue as is possible with a razor blade and then try to lift off the rest with tape. All the chemical solutions I've tried still don't work better then a length of tape and there is zero chance of damaging the drivers.

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fuuuu.jpg

I can't believe this - in one clumsy 'rock-out-with-my-c*ck-out' move (note to self - need to put carpeting in den) I accidentally dropped my 404LE onto hardwood floor and the plastic "fork" on one side broke like this:

broken-1.png

I've super-glued it together - seems to be holding together for now.

Do I have any chance of STAX replacing this piece, especially on a so-called 'limited' edition?

(so far, the super-glue seems to be holding, and I have a back-up pair...but it still pisses me off - my clumsiness, that is)

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The forks are easy to replace so it shouldn't be a problem to get a new one from Stax.

They are easy to replace on the old Lambdas, sig and earlier, but I have had zero luck removing the fork from my SR404. Looks like there is a press fit pin or something holding it in that I have not been able to budge.

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They are easy to replace on the old Lambdas, sig and earlier, but I have had zero luck removing the fork from my SR404. Looks like there is a press fit pin or something holding it in that I have not been able to budge.

It's a bit fiddly but I've never had any trouble with it. It's just a small tube with a cut in it so that it can compress held in place with friction. :-\

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What's my Stax? I've got three pairs of 30 to 40 year old Stax phones that I first bought in 1971 (when money was very tight and I was very young. Now money is still tight and I'm much older :-)). I have two SR-3's which I retrofitted with SR-5 diaphragms in the late 80's and one original SR-5. The driver amp is my own custom-modded SRA model, removed all the preamps and doodads and kept the driver amp, but I goosed the amp's bias and also the headphone's bias with my own bias control, so I'm running the phones "hot-rodded" with between 200 and 300 volt bias. Basically I adjust the bias until the hair on my arms starts to stand on end and then I back it off :-). I know it's risky but there's a resistor in the phones and life is too short. The higher the bias the higher the phones' output and thus the cleaner the amp runs before it runs out of headroom.

And now I have a little spare cash so I'm going to splurge on a total luxury item that I totally do not need: A pair of Omega IIs and a Gilmore-style solid state amp. I think the Omegas are the best-sounding headphones I've ever heard and I've been salivating over them for as long as they've been around, but kept putting my money into loudspeakers and amps and my mastering gear.

Does anyone have a spare headband for sale for an SR-3 or SR5? My SR5 headband is cracked and cannot be repaired with superglue or anything short of custom-made parts.

(To help finance this I'm selling a beautiful Pass X250 amp if anyone is interested)

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Thanks for the possible explanation! I'll report back with what happens. It has been on all day, and no problems yet.

Speaking of caps. I replaced the main filter caps and the low voltage filter caps in my Stax SRA-series amplifier about 20 to 25 years ago, so theoretically it's overdue for a new set (some say every 10 years!). The amp has been performing very well, however. I have an LED on it that takes 6 seconds to go out on power off so there's a decent amount of reserve capacity. I just measured the current (pun not intended) caps in situ and they all measure at least 30% higher than the specified value. They were all good-model electrolytics. My question is : If the caps measure fine is there any need to replace them, even after 20 years?

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