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Finished up my Eclipse video today. Had the opportunity to see the Totality down in TN. Saw it from right on the center-line at the I-40 rest area at the caney fork river... 2m39.5s of totality! it was profound:

Had my JLC Master Ultra thin sent to be serviced in July, and while that was being done thought I'd have a JLC SS bracelet fitted. I was told it could take up to October before everything was done, but I'm pleased I received it today and it looks brand new, although the bracelet is. Now I was happy with the brown leather strap that was originally on my JLC, but much prefer the look of their bracelet, and it looks even better in real life. This SS bracelet does make the watch heavier, but it's still extremely comfortable. Anyway for comparison the first photo is of a master UT ( not mine ) with a brown strap, and others of my JLC with that bracelet.?

https://www.pololu.com/category/71/wires-with-pre-crimped-terminals http://www.mouser.com/new/molex/molex-pre-crimped-leads/ https://www.digikey.com/products/en/cable-assemblies/jumper-wires-pre-crimped-leads/453

I have two Marvel coolers, the freestanding one that has been flawless and steady but the built-in one in a wine closet has crapped out on me and needs to be serviced and perhaps have the seals changed. My only real advice is to get two temperature zones because different types of wines and beers have different preferred temperatures. Also pay attention to the min / max temperatures for the zones because you know you want to serve your stouts warmer than your IPAs. Here are some general guidelines from Craft Beer and Brewing magazine. 35–40°F (2–4°C): Mass market light lagers 40–45°F (4–7°C): Czech and German Pilsners, Munich Helles, wheat beers, and Kölsch 45–50°F (7–10°C): IPAs, American pale ales, porters, and most stouts 50–55°F (10–13°C): Belgian ales, sour ales, Bocks, English bitters and milds, Scottish ales 55–60°F (13–16°C): Barleywines, imperial stouts, Belgian strong ales, and Doppelbocks

you lack the will of the warrior

I doubt you'll ever get to 1,500 bottles, though.

Why not get stands with little more... function?

No basements or cool rooms in Houston.

It certainly seems like almost everyone uses these connectors, and there must be dozens of amps built with them by regulars and lurkers here by now. This is only the second report of this failure mode. Not good, certainly, and it would be nice to find a better alternative. I wanted to switch to Molex or something similar, but couldn't find parts with sufficiently high voltage ratings.

too much solder and heat might be the root cause

Mine has a front vent but I still think it may have cooked itself anyway.

A further palate cleanser I came across recently, which instantly joined the Grail List. F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier in platinum with a black mother of pearl dial. They only made a dozen or so. The way it catches the light!

Next level baller!

Honestly, my post applies equally to your unnecessarily combative response to Dan and your original picture.

ok, take it as a negative that I don't think you should be embarrassed by a photo of yourself.

Yes! I have a thing about that kind of symmetry. When my then brother-in-law built our deck for us 20 ish years ago, we had a funky little bump out on the house -- 3 sides of an octagon. He matched the bump out in dimensions and angle for me. (My ex still lives in that house and still has that deck, so I get to occasionally see it.) It's very satisfying to see.

Shelly, True is a huge commercial fridge/freezer manufacturer. Look in just about any beverage store, sandwich shop, etc., and you'll likely see there products on the floor. I keep watch on CL for good used examples to replace the small, counter-top unit that I use as a beer fridge (not a True model).

the ones with the evaporator on the back of the unit typically last only a few years when you build them in, because there is no place to get rid of the heat generated. then the compressor burns up, and no way to fix it.

What they said. Multi zones great if you want to keep both reds and whites at proper serving temps. Next consideration is capacity -- how many bottles do you plan to accumulate? Followed by budget/price. I think the WE unit you posted looks decent. Vinotemp is arguably better quality but quite a bit more money, too.

My Dad has roughly about 1,500 bottles now and he owns a number of these types of coolers. My advice is to get one with nice pull-out drawers. Think of it more as a way to display the bottles you really want to drink than as long term storage. A cool/dark basement is really all you need for long term storage and aging. These wine coolers are more of a luxury, but the ones with nice pull-out drawers are really nice for choosing what to drink. You can use them for aging wines, but they aren't really necessary for that purpose. Just my 2 cents.

Welcome to the glorious world of high voltage.

Stay safe, Brent. You may identify with being white but these white supremacist shitbags are even getting DNA tests, which ironically prove that they are not as white as they think they are.

I saw some noise issues in the Spice model for the regulator version as well. I could mostly control it, but not completely (especially once you go above 20KHz). Here's another idea I came up with (CSS #2 and #4). They will also support 1,000V. You could improve it slightly by adding a DN2540, but I'm not sure it's worth it. These other two models work almost as well as the battery at 10KHz and only a bit worse at 20KHz. The second (#2 below) is probably the best bang per parts. # 4 could be made to be a bit better, but I'm not sure it's worth it. The results are for the first three only (which includes the battery that Kevin came up with). R1 May not be necessary, but it felt good I want to experiment a bit more with it.

Most insane thing I've ever seen! The traffic driving back to the east coast from TN was sick too...10hr drive turned to 16hrs...and I had to work today.