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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/26/2022 in all areas

  1. 5 points
  2. Cases and heatsinks are a problem for DIY builds. Front panels of thick alloy need machining and tapping as do heatsinks. These items are hard to get machined or the sizes the builder wants are not available. I devised a way of making cases, which eliminated these problems and made for easier case design, lower costs and quicker builds. Cases Made from sheet aluminium alloy of preferably 3mm so only single sheet of material needed. I get the parts laser cut by a company which will also supply the material. The case parts need holes to be countersunk where necessary and are then taken for surface finishing, (bead blasting and anodising in my case). I then take the front panels to be screen printed with the graphics I provide. The assembly is with corner posts and angle brackets cut and drilled, and bolted together. I only drill and tap corner posts to attach base and top panels. The case is basically a box with a front panel on to cover the front of the box. Heatsinks https://uk.farnell.com/amec-thermasol/fch505010t/heat-sink-50mmx50mmx10-25mm-ceramic/dp/2499023 Edit; a link to these was omitted, http://www.amecuk.co.uk/ Element14 has them in many countries. https://www.newark.com/c/cooling-thermal-management/heat-sinks?brand=amec-thermasol I discovered porous ceramic heatsinks and realised that these small, light, self-adhesive items would solve problems. I bought a few and tested to see if they did what was claimed. A single 50mm square of 10mm thick could dissipate 5-10W stuck on sheet aluminium. To make heatsinks you only have to bolt the semiconductors directly to the 3mm plates and place the ceramic heatsinks as needed. They are not expensive, and with a range of sizes you can arrange heatsinks of different shapes. I was concerned that they might unstick but the opposite has been true, they are hard to remove. They are not pretty so I contain them inside the case and organise slots above and below to act as a chimney to allow convection. This works well and they do not run hot. The porous ceramic devices are very effective. I have found that this method is much easier to procure and build. The amplifiers built this way can be smaller and lighter.
    2 points
  3. Dahl, to go with the leftover curry.
    2 points
  4. 1 point
  5. I know the Ember was a game changer for my wife. With the kids running around, she was dealing with cold coffee multiple times a day, every day. I bought her the original 10 oz for her birthday a few years back, and when the 14 oz was released, I upgraded her that Christmas. 136 degree Americanos make Lauren a happy woman.
    1 point
  6. I’m not surprised, but only because I bought my partner similar machines, and I was also shocked at how good they were at mimicking pour over. Speaking of pour over: beyond how convenient it is to have my coffee stay warm, the ability to know exactly the temperature of the liquid, in real time, is the game changer here. In this case I brewed directly into the mug using the Brewista Tornado, from a PID kettle set at 210. Four pours, but the kettle was set to maintain that temperature. Brewing into a warm mug (set to the default of 135) the coffee was 177 degrees upon uncovering, and had gone down to 168 within 20 seconds. Keep in mind that this was a best-case pour over scenario, as the Tornado is dual wall. Recommended. Plus you can make the LED glow any color you want. 135-140 is pretty ideal, and this bean has tons of chocolate there.
    1 point
  7. Thanks. Yes, I use it with paper filter. My Kalita Wave manual pour over tastes better, but I am surprised at how good this is for an automatic.
    1 point
  8. "Apple Cinnamon Bread Recipe - Sally's Baking Addiction" https://sallysbakingaddiction.com/apple-cinnamon-bread/ With the Brits at Creek Park in San Anselmo
    1 point
  9. Another batch of chicken curry, for later
    1 point
  10. Chicken Curry 2.0 Now the flavo(u)rs have had some time together to get to know each other.
    1 point
  11. First steak in the Ooni. Pizza from lunch.
    1 point
  12. Did anyone experience how vulnerable DN2540N5 are? They are damaged so easily that I had to scratch my head. E.g. desolder it from a donor known good GRHV, actually new (don't ask why, I had to get spares) and it's detected OK in circuit as N-Ch depletion mosfet. I desolder it, test it and BAM it's no longer depletion mosfet, it turns into kind of Voltage regulator. And doesn't work of course. I spoiled 4 pcs already, despite the fact that I know how to desolder and handle components. And only one out of 5 was OK after desoldering.
    0 points
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