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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/16/2020 in all areas
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I'm lucky enough to have a few local record stores nearby. Both will let me sample the merch, but also steer me away from lesser quality pressings. I made lots of discoveries by browsing my local vinyl shops back in the day, and had forgotten how much I love spending an afternoon record browsing.3 points
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Absolutely brilliant Marc! Exactly what I needed. I was able to order a belt not only long enough, but also wide enough to use with my existing pulley for VHS tape. Now I can compare magnetic tape, surgical silk thread and nylon reinforced rubber. Ordered! Thanks all for suggestions. DONE.3 points
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McMaster Carr sells custom order flat belts: https://www.mcmaster.com/rubber-flat-belts/3 points
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Yup,.. Amoeba on Haight is one of my favorites stores (not just records). Streetlight in San Jose was a real haunt of mine when I still lived there.2 points
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Not entirely from scratch. I had a thread dedicated to the build, but it got nuked by Reks. I purchased a VPI Aries special edition Black acrylic platter, about 2" thick, along with the accompanying inverted platter bearing. Then purchased a Rega RB300 tonearm with upgraded Cardas wiring. Then outfitted that tonearm with Pete Riggle's counter weight and VTA mechanism. The plinth I built was rather complex, with 6 alternating layers of 3/4" birch plywood and 3/4" MDF. I drilled a series of 10 holes about 1 1/2" in diameter and 3" deep, on the bottom of the plinth. Those I filled with the modern version of lead shot, for even more anti resonate properties, and made removable caps, so that I could adjust fill levels accordingly. I wrapped the plinth core with 3/4" Walnut, Walnut corner posts and Big leaf Maple burl veneer on top. I made the tonearm board out of Walnut, and made it adjustable by about 1/2". Marc built me a Pass Pearl phono stage and also a DIY motor controller, for the separate motor pod and Maxon motor. The turntable weighs in at around 75 lbs. And it's enormous! Hence the name Colossus.2 points
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Very pretty. I think Stephen King has scared me too much to visit Maine. I just know that I'll have a Gypsy curse cast upon me, or a killer clown will chase me, or some High School prom queen will use telekinesis to run my car into a tree.2 points
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Looking at the schematic, you are probably correct that it is one of the c2m1000170ds. I would replace the 20K resistor, then ohm out the c2m pins to each other (G-D, G-S, etc.). Compare to the good channel. I believe that MOSFETs will often fail as a short (could be misremembering though). I don't know if the UnitedSiC part that Blueman posted above would work. Kevin or Birgir might be able to comment on that.1 point
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Gene, it sounds like you need a local record store where you can sample the records. It sounds old-fashioned, but that's the only way to be sure when you're spending so much money. I've noticed a bunch of negative online reviews in the same vein over the last few years – it sounds like some of the labels are pushing records out without any kind of quality control – perhaps they are outsourcing the operation.1 point
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its entirely possible that one channel had more leeway before breaking than the other. Hence one still working. The hum probably came from a combo of the failure (whatever it is) in the L channel from the unregulated (broken) -400 supply. I would get the LV 15V supplies working next after you get -400V regulation back. I have no idea which transistor maybe bad, but most likely one is. Once you get the supplies working correctly you should measure the voltages on both channels, that may point to the problem. The observation that it passes audio while turning on or off leads me to think that is happening when it passes thru working bias points. And stabilizes with everything biased off. Check your board well for missed solder joints, cold solder or arcs. As an aside, you can use almost any correct type of FET to trouble shoot. The 170 is for low noise and distortion, others will work just fine.. do you have a scope?1 point
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