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nikongod

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Everything posted by nikongod

  1. I'd buy that SUT stretch linked to if the guy posted any info on which transformers it has. Mystery SUT's dont do it for me. RC values were taken from the datasheet. I can see where my loading system could cause problems. My house is pretty good for noise, but I plan to shorten the resistor legs when I settle on a value. looking at it some more, shielded plugs for loading would not be absurdly expensive to implement.
  2. If you can build it yourself, and dont go too overboard with "non-transformer" parts the largest expense is the transformers. By far the hardest part is grounding everything "properly" which occasionally means not grounding at all! what fun! I would guess $300 to start. the transformers are listed at 58pounds each, with a 10 pound add on for OCC wire. so about 150 pounds=$250, plus all the other stuff. all the "non transformer" junk (including my junky cast aluminum case) for this cost $50. you could probably do it for less than $40 + transformers if you didnt put the binding posts or ground/float switch in. I realised after my last SUT that im too lazy to open the thing up and solder it every time I want to change stuff.
  3. I preferred transformer phase splitting to the inherent phase splitting of the SRM-717 (I know, long shot comparason) when I had it. 6sl7 may work. Why do you need a second B+ supply?
  4. nikongod

    slow forum

    bear enteres grocery, climbs into beer cooler
  5. Headphone meets are a bad influence on my wallet.
  6. I had a wonderful time meeting all of you people, except for stretch who I didnt meet and missed quite a bit. Its OK, the ceiling in this pace was very low, he would have had to crawl or tilt his head all funny or something. At this meet I tried out some very impressive gear. In particular Nate's SB-600 flash for my camera. It is quite a nice bit of gear, I will have to get one. pictars: look here for more pictures some highlights: jin, he has JH13, it says so on his nametag. Nate and the Menace TC lite the floats came out, a picture like this had to happen. This one had to happen too. Ian makes nice headphone cups.
  7. Yet Another Thread To Talk About Digital Cables. discuss.
  8. Hint 1: Hint 2: Hint 3: Hint 3.5: Answer:
  9. I am also very curious to see what is going on inside vicky's extreme. If there is room in the vicky-mobile, I would advise bringing the drill & 1/8 & 3/16" bits. My luck cracking extremes has not been as good as others. I always need to drill out one or 2 of the screws. I'l send a replacement set of filips head screws ahead of time so I cant forget them.
  10. I would like to come to this meet and hang out with all of you. I am arriving at about 1pm on Friday. Flying home at 930PM on Sunday. I also need a room. Between those times I hope to drink beer, drink scotch, eat food while watching live music, drink beer, drink scotch, drink beer sleep. wake up. eat breakfast, setup audiophile related equipment, hang out perhaps drinking a beer while chatting with everyone, eat lunch, drink beer, hang out some more, maybe listen to some music in there if it dosnt interfere with chatting and drinking beer, then I plan to eat and drink some more beer. do something else, drink more beer, sleep. wake up. dunno what peeps are doing on Sunday, I expect it to be a lot like saturday.
  11. michaels sells a matte-board cutter for making circles. very good for the big circles. If you are patient, a compass and scissor is 95% of as good, the circular matt cutter is kind of pricey and when I tried it fiddly to set up. Its probably only worth it if you want to take the throne from the guy who was selling these DIY mats on ebay. For the small circles, you can buy uberlarge hole punches (probably from michaels too) for making 3/4" hearts and stars and circles. hopefully they will have the circle one at your local shop Here are some I found: This one looks good! they may have a suitable circulat matt cutter, could not find it myself though. Something like this one will work perfectly and will never break although it is very noisy when you wack it with a harmer/mallet. Also cool if you want to cut dots into the base... just an idea. amazon link The circular punch I have used looks like this one here. Im pretty sure they have them at michaels. the star one could make cool dots too. I have seen DIY mats on audioasylum that use hand cut angular pieces (diamonds, triangles, etc) so maybe the star would be cool. Edited: as a preemptive strike you may want to try this on for size: sorbothane depending who you ask the best or worst thing ever for a mat. easy and cheap to test for yourself
  12. Higher linear velocities allow lower noise. More noise in the outer groves than the inner groves is usually an alignment issue. If noise is audible at all it should be fairly constant across the face of the record or MAYBE a little worse in the inner groves (depending what alignment method you use). I would spend some more time with your alignment gauges. If you happen to have the kind of magnifying glass one would expect an old man to have to read the newspaper or a jewelers loupe, bust it out and get busy with the protractor. Until you are comfy setting up a cartridge just let it take as long as it takes. Even once you have the hang of it, let it take as long as it takes. If you want to try some other alignment methods (or double check your protractor against a different one), the various print it yourself protractors from vinylengine are all very nice. I like the "AccuTrak" protractor myself, It has a bunch of alignment methods, and is reasonably easy to use. As a note, if you are using an "ARC" protractor: ARC protractors may not work with a rega arm on a non-rega TT. ARC protractors require a very specific mounting distance, which sadly doesn't allow baerwald alignment with all cartridges on a rega arm. The solution is to mount the arm 1-2mm "short" to allow baerwald, BUT because of the way they work, arc-tractors will never work properly with an arm mounted 2mm short of what they were drawn for.
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