nopants

I'd be interested if the price cut's good, though I imagine it'll still be prohibitively expensive. Have you contacted them about it already?

I'll take a power supply board if possible, I already have an amplifier pcb

Just got the hi-res PCM for Du Pre's Elgar Concerto, but quite a bit more to enjoy in this

Aren't Winged-Cs like 20-30 a pop? They're not really the bank-breaking part of the build

damn good job successfully trolling people this long, I'd respect it more if it wasn't such a waste of space

I can help you with the omega but most of my amplifiers are a bit unwieldy to ship, to say the least

maybe you should try google something

that tubes cost is a bit ridiculous though, hate to think what the cost is for the all-DHT amplifier..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SiTubes-LPF-Low-Power-Isolated-DC-Filament-Supply-/161719174157?hash=item25a736c40d:g:EBMAAOSw~OdVaIav something like this might work, I remember seeing it from scavenging around millett's site

20b is the only candidate? and you're referring to the grounded grid amplifier?

http://slickdeals.net/f/8419277-denon-da-300usb-usb-dac-headphone-amplifier-219-99-free-shipping Amazon is listing this at 455 USD Quick google rundown of specs: PCM1795 up to 24/192 2 toslink, 1 rca coax, 1 USB input op-amp output stage

im up for testing them in the original boards, need to get that thing finished anyway. does that make them similarly applicable in other designs like the t2, or the 6c33c amplifier?

I have some original bh boards here maybe I should case it so they can use the same power supply

maybe the tube circlotron will be similar sized if you've got tubes instead of heatsink fun projects are getting more fun though, no parts headaches ATM

bh modern? how's the prototype (assuming you've built one) I thought the main issues around this were the fets needed to drive the el34 inputs

seems to be much smaller, and larger spots to accommodate those supremes

there seems to be a physical indentation, albeit very shallow. it only crosses two nets. the other corresponding side has a silk line on the top of the board

I was in the middle of cleaning my psu pcb when I saw this score/break for the first time. does anyone else have this on their boards? should I be worried? it's right at the point where the angle bracket ends.

if there's room I'd like two bottles

Seems like you can shave off a bit of heatsinking if brackets are enough to keep the temperatures manageable

congrats on the house purchase liquidate your stax collection so you can buy another one

Why is the 1704 still such a prevalent chip? Aren't they supposed to be EOL'd like twice over? I thought it was on some 1862 status.

is it possible to get a run that doesn't cost a kidney? luckily they sell this at mouser... I looked up the current limits for 24 AWG and it seems I need 3A capacity, this should still work right? The insulation is definitely an issue though. I opted for some ptfe/kapton wrap affair but I guess I should reevaluate this. Thanks for the tip on the hellerman sleeves, I was going to do some normal stuff with heatshrink. On the note of I'm sort of concerned about thoroughly cleaning the flux off the boards, what did you guys do? I had some pcb flux remover but it seems to just create some weird flux precipitate that is pretty hard to remove. I tried to scrub it down with rubbing alcohol but it started coming back green so I'm a bit concerned haha

Can I confirm the power domains for each umbilical? I took these from the schematic: ABiasBN/AC6DJ8 6.3DEL34 6.3E+12F+250G-12H6DJ8 6.3JEL34 6.3KChassis GroundL-560M+500N-500PCircuit GroundR-260Can I get away with 24 AWG for the filaments?

Are you guys twisting the filament runs between PSU and amplifier? I noticed the pin legend specifying C-J and D-H for each of the filaments, wondering what the reasoning was for this as opposed to using adjacent ones. Quite a painful part of this build, have to admit