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Everything posted by RudeWolf

  1. You can try this - http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/299822-fs-soekris-dam1021-rev1-0-02-bc550-mod.html These are the earlier boards, but seem properly modded. As for the input board - I might actually be able to sell you one together with an Amanero USB->I2S converter. It will have on board connection for volume, input switching and input indication. Ideally you'd want an extra 12V DC power supply because that supposedly improves the noise floor/sound. For a leaner build I could also ship you a proper 7VA transformer to use with the DAC. Here's one of the last images
  2. Anyhow - if someone wants to get a good taste of that multibit goodness, get the soekris board. Some come up cheap 2nd hand, just make sure that you out-ninja other folks who might also get their multibit sweetooth on. I got mine right after they became available. At first it sucked ass and was borderline a disaster. The guy who designed them is pretty experienced in digital electronics, but not so much in analog, so there were fuckups. And by fuckups I mean a few guys got their stuff blown up because of asymmetrical PSU loading which spat out an uber nasty DC transient on powerdown. Also
  3. There's a Soekris module inside there, so it might sound good. If they have bothered to change the digital filters and modded the PSU loading so it doesn't kill your downstream stuff on powerdown... *shakes fist at Birgir for ninja-ing those two boards*
  4. Has anyone actually built the CFA3? On one hand, there are plenty of decent smart choices for driving headphones nowadays (maybe it's different for stats), but on the other - I'd love to build something insane for a change. So, I was thinking - 2xGR PSU's powering a pair of CFA3 boards in a 2U 400mm Modushop case. Double Joshua tree attenuators for volume control. Or should I just stick to ebay Dynahi kits and sit my ass down?
  5. LS50ies are a safe bet, if you need bookshelves. The ELAC coax bookshelves look nice, but i can't understand the advantage of using a 3-way arrangement if you have 5-6" woofers. And yeah, get a sub if you can.
  6. Bah, just use a DAC which has a memory buffer and galvanic isolation. It will sound the same with any input, because jitter will be dictated by the on-board master clock and galvanic isolation will take care of most of the ground/line crud. The only price to pay for this would be latency induced by buffer size. Mine adds 0.5ms. You can't just go spewing out stuff like "USB is dead, because my AOIP gear makes me feel better/different". P.S. Just keep in mind guys, that USB audio can't really be compared to other data transfer protocols which have error correction. USB audio can't
  7. Currently there's a slight shitshow going on in the Apple official USB-C dongle review thread - http://www.apple.com/shop/reviews/MJ1K2AM/A/usb-c-digital-av-multiport-adapter I have pretty neutral sentiment for both of the major players. For 20 years I've been using mainly Windows and for the last year or so getting a MBP for work was a wonderful revelation. I'd hate to return to Windows for work.
  8. Watch it further then. The next 20 minutes or so they're doing cross-checks with other devices/setups.
  9. Watch the first 10 minutes. tl;dw - Wi-fi on new MBP's is bottlenecked by Thunderbolt data traffic.
  10. So technically what's so bad about USB audio that's solved by AOIP?
  11. Bin the opamp, sanity check all remaining silicon. I burned my Dynalo with wrong polarity and ended up swapping out all transistors. Really depends on how available the parts are.
  12. You won't get a real zero with most DMM's and that's really not needed. My rule of thumb is to stay below 5mV at all times and be done with it. Just watch that warmup doesn't stray too sideways and you should be okay. Also - when adjusting with servo opamps in place, always measure the opamp output pin rather than amp output. P.S. What's the current standing with PCB design on the mini-dynalo? Maybe it would make sense to make the PCB wider so it fits readily available cases? And add standoffs for guys wanting to mount it with screws.
  13. Interesting, just checked the datasheet and the noise figure checks out. I wonder how the guy got his -140dB noise measurements. He's an EE at TI and should know better than that.
  14. There's also THAT - http://www.neurochrome.com/product/that-receiver/ The board's a bit pricy, but should be easy to implement.
  15. Well, 10Ah would mean 2x the size. No way around it. As for the new design, I hope the cold sterile Sabre sound has been warmed up a little. Otherwise it has always struck me as a stellar offering technologically way above the rest and at a killer price. All in all - go Oppo! I really like my PM-3.
  16. I'm game. I just wonder how many to get to be on the safe side...
  17. Narp, extra 1.25$ wouldn't be an issue. Any news on how's the best way to case the thing?
  18. I'm good with smt soldering and wouldn't want to ruin my oven! And that paste is super expensive.
  19. Well, you could say the same about Class AB and maybe even Class D. Even classic Class A doesn't guarantee anything, unless it's done right.
  20. I've heard nothing but bad rep about these bias changing class-A amps. Used to be all the rage in eighties.
  21. What are the dimensions of these boards? I might be up for a pair.
  22. Speedmaster-ey watch for poor sods like me and... okay, just me. http://www.nezumistudios.com/
  23. Well, we might as well manufacture the case to be fully sealed and fill it with mineral oil.
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