RudeWolf

Here's Elear (which is similar to Clear in many ways): Here's Utopia: The LF roll-off on the Utopia makes it sound leaner even if objectively it extends lower. It's like comparing sealed and ported box speakers.

I prefer Clear to the Utopia. With Utopia I pretty much required calibration which is an insult for the asking price. The extra technicalities over the Clear are nice for sure, but I like bass.

I really enjoyed the Outsider. The photography was beyond excellent.

Yup, he is.

The transistors I got performed up to spec and looked similar to known genuine parts. Even the legs had slight discoloration characteristic to old electronics.

Got them from this gent here -

A pair of 2sj109/2sk389. Sounds better that way and the DC is way more stable. I'll add that even with the THAT340 it sounded superb!

Finished! Thanks to KG, Sbelyo, Pars and mwl168 for the help!

I would kill for a 1U dissapante case.

A technology sufficiently advanced is indistinguishable from magic stupidity, you guys.

I'm adding a protector to mine, will run it from one of the GRLV's. The shutdown on mine sends a 2VDC transient out, so I'd better be safe, never know when power can go out and you won't be able to unplug the phones.

Just go for tube ubal/bal->bal and 4xCFA2's like a real man.

Well, I'm no EE, but generally feedback is what lets amps oscillate. Hence why KG said he doesn't know how to make a ZF amp do it. What makes you think that the amp is oscillating?

Super-Symmetry and Zero-Feedback. The input section of this board can do both topologies.

I think so. It's one of the reasons I don't like them.

Neumann NDH 20 when stationary and Sony WH1000-XM3 when commuting.

This stuff happened in my hometown, Riga! The depths of hell opened up to swallow a bimmer.

The soldering IS the fuse!

I adjusted the trimpot to nullify DC on input board outputs, before the servo opamps got installed. For the ceramic cap I used this - https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/81-RDEC71E476MWK1H3B

Hunting for power switches is a nightmare, unless you're willing to go with a bulgin vandal-proof type of thing. I'm mounting my power switch on the bottom plate near the faceplate, so you can reach under the amp and easily push the toggler switch. This is also pretty okay - https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-Audio/ACJM-MHOP?qs=t8VhaDIDl4uYvnn1Z02tXA%3D%3D But generally the choice isn't too big.

It lives! One of the better solid state amps I've heard. Now to drill some panels!

My Hera with about a year in between. From: To: She likes well biased amps!

I'd say that affordable delta-sigma DACs have become way less annoying. And the advent of R2R for less-than-MSB prices at least for me make hunting for rare old multibit chips largely redundant.

ATC is pretty cool, if a little overpriced. I consider a used SCM40 to be the best deal, as it's the easiest way to enjoy their dome mid. Probably the SCM20 will also cut the proverbial mustard, but I'd try to get the active version as it's extra special. For less cashmonies Neumann KH310 is also quite delectable.

I'll probably try to buy some from the local GB participants.