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RudeWolf

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Everything posted by RudeWolf

  1. What about solder-on sinks? Like here -
  2. What's the usual procedure for heatsinking smd devices? Sprinkling vias around or screwing on a small heatsink?
  3. Save for the smaller regs, everything else should be manageable. Just keep the parts from flying off the table.
  4. SMD, SMPS... Blasphemy! I'm actually super proud to see HC finally embracing the newer tech. How do these SMPS'es look under the scope? Does extra after-regulation help?
  5. The info on the sub is scarce. At first I thought that Equator guys were crazy enough to devise 18" coax main monitors. Here's the skinny - Frequency Response (-6dB): 15Hz - 180Hz Recommended Line Level Input: 10mV-2V Amplifier Power (LF): 1000W Amplifier Peak Power (LF): 2000W Sensitivity: 1w/1m output, 103dB Max SPL: ≥129 Input Impedance: 10kΩ L.F. Driver VC Size: 4” L.F. Driver (4- ohm): 18” Crossover Frquency: Software Configurable Inputs: XLR, USB, RS485 in/thru, ¼” phone jack Protection: Compression (LF), thermal, short ci
  6. The Q12's are anything but mild mannered. Stock they go down to low forties/thirties and with my SB-2000 sub it's pretty much 20-20k coverage. And 500+200W continuos power is something to behold. Fortunately DSP tames the horn driver, so there's not really a hint of harshness. Interestingly enough my SVS 12" sub has a hard time keeping up with the mains at high SPL's. The frenchman who sold me the Q12's has made me an extremely nice deal for the Equator Q18S sub. Think - 18", 1000W continuos and 16Hz -6dB point for a 160lb sealed box. On top of that I can daisy chain the sub to mains with
  7. Yesterday finally acquired a pair of Equator audio Q12's. Yeah, I know - they're hardly audiophile with all their internal DSP trickery and 12'' drivers with compression horn tweeters are hardly appropriate for near field...
  8. That's germanium transistors. One guy from a Russian forum had a rather decent headamp schematic based on these things.
  9. Look up Nelson Pass's distortion measurements of the said attenuation method. They weren't too pretty. I use a combination of 24 step stepped attenuation for coarse steps and 28bit digital volume control for finer adjustments. Complex, but gets very good results.
  10. Killer remasters for some of my favorite Opeth albums.
  11. Well, it gave me some insight. Ultimately Damasko looks a bit too Sinn-like, and there isn't that much of a difference in price. Still. I need to blow some more money in audio projects, before I go for another watch. In the following year or so I intend to build a 4-way fully digital crossover unit. Standard digital inputs->SHARC processor for IIR/FIR->4xR2R DACS. Should kick Arsch.
  12. I'll think about brushing, the current look is starting to grow on me. So maybe it's nothing to get riled up about. P.S. Where did Jacobs's last comment disappear?
  13. Thanks for the tip. Fortis looks interesting. Have you looked at Damasko? Looks like an alternative to many Sinn models.
  14. Yeah, I'm really happy with how it worked out. Tho much of the happiness comes from not really owning a watch, but researching what to buy. I found out about Sinn, a company which really 'gets' me. I also found out that most diver watches are a homage in some way to a handful of classic models from Rolex and Omega. I really like the Rolex diver look as well, but really I feel that Rolex has the quintessential 'expensive watch' stigma. One guy from a local forum said that an expensive watch must either be a Rolex or must be golden. I'm sure that in the eyes of uneducated folks this pretty much
  15. I wanted the chrono and an auto chrono for this model was ridiculously large (48mm) and twice the price. Size was the main dealbreaker there, though at the >1000$ range I'm not sure if I'd go with Tissot. As for how it wears, I really don't know what to say. Doesn't feel like a 45mm, that's for sure. As in - the face doesn't scream out the "big watch" look. I needed some time to adjust to blue ceramic, because it's rather bright, but not overwhelmingly so. Bracelet might be a bit too polished, as I prefer a more understated brushed look. All in all the bracelet doesn't feel cheap and doesn'
  16. Seastar Quartz (yeah, boo and hiss).
  17. Mix rum with what you want, just don't mix it with weak will. I did and I'm dead this morning. Thursday is the Friday of Friday, right?
  18. Hard to judge the size ones' self wrist. I mean it's the same thing dangling in front of you for decades...
  19. I tried one on and it wasn't THAT crazy, but I get your point. I'll look around - Tissot has a Seastar Quartz Chrono which is 44mm. Doesn't look too different from the big auto.
  20. Sure, 48mm isn't exactly petite, but I think that I'll manage. I don't wear suits that often, so it'll appear in a more smart/casual setting. As for Hamilton, they are pretty scarce in EU, but I had considered them. The problem is that that I already have a Maratac Mid Pilot Red, so getting another pilot/field watch doesn't seem much sense. Especially if its my second proper watch.
  21. Thanks for the tips guys! I guess that saving up a bit for this isn't such a bad idea -
  22. Bit too rich for my blood that Oris. I mean I could, but my boss is a watch lover as well and there's no way I'm getting a raise with one of those on my arm.
  23. I remember them going for 1.2k in Agon about a year ago when all the rabid reviews popped up. I got mine for 900€ back when our Monopoly money was still worth something. I'd say it's a swell price, but nothing to get crazy about. Just measured mine with SB2000 sub crossed at 80Hz.
  24. What's the general consensus around here about Tissot? I'm looking for a metal bracelet dressy diver watch (700$ super uber tops) and naturally Seiko 007/009 jumps into view, but my old man says that Tissot should also be worth looking at. Tried a few Seastars yesterday and they sat on my wrist pretty well. I still have a feeling that I'm overpaying for dat "Swiss Made" sign - am I? And what's more important - should I?
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