Pars

This. And everything else. Miss you!

What I want to do is do the SE->BAL conversion with the minimum sonic impact on the SE signal (and the BAL obviously, but I don't use balanced currently). What is this specifically designed thing BTW? I've probably seen it at some point, but I'm getting older...

Kinda expensive but supposed to be good. http://www.excelsports.com/main.asp?page=8&description=Eolo+III+CO2+Inflator+with+2+16g+Cartridges&vendorCode=SILCA&major=12&minor=1 SIlca was bought by an American and moved from Italy to Indiana. Always used to be the pump to have back in the day (still have 2). They can be a workout to get a tire up to 100+ psi with though.

On my Rotel RCD991, in implementing the discrete I/V stage, I had thought about the SE to BAL conversion, since it is single-ended to the output, where it is converted to balanced via an opamp. Per Filburt's recommendation, I had switched this out to a heavily bypassed AD8599 or something like that. I read with interest the input stage on this amp, doing SE->BAL conversion using the THAT340. Do you think that doing a small PCB to implement this would be an improvement over the opamp? I wanted to preserve a) the output muting relays, and 'b) the balanced output. Even though I don't currently use them, I would like to keep them implemented for resale value and more importantly to preserve the output quality in SE mode. The cetoole I/V stage I have built up has dc servos. Would the THAT340 implementation be pretty much 0V DC offset, or does that depend upon it being inside the servo loop?

Yep, such a loss. Brilliant, but as other have noted, had his issues. RIP Robin

Cool Colin! SO that freeze off shit actually works? This was an aluminum cup in an aluminum frame (Cannondale)? Might have to try this on my friend's bike that I so far can't get the drive side crank arm off of.

Sheldon's bolt thing supposedly works very well. Remember that that cup is LH thread, so CW to loosen. If it were std. threads, you would need a LH bolt and nut to do Sheldon's thing. Get a grade 8 bolt and nut (or whatever he recommends in the link I had attached.

Yeah, had to shitcan that Maytag washer of ours after paying to replace the same tub bearing for the 2nd (or was it 3rd) time. Thought it was a Whirlpool, but they were Maytags. Much happier with the Speed Queen top loader, SS tub.

We have a Speed Queen washer (replaced a POS Whirlpool), and have really liked it. When the Whirlpool gas dryer takes a dump, it will be Speed Queen. I'll live without it's IoT connection

I would think the LBS would know that. Are they somewhat versed in vintage? The drive side cup on English (ISO) threading is left hand thread, and this bike most certainly has that threading. Post 4761 confirms that (1.370 x 24tpi is english or ISO, sometimes marked 1.375 x 24tpi). Remind me again, you were trying to get this out of the Cannondale in order to put different components on the frame? Kroil or Freeze Off would be something to try. If the cup is the type that has wrench flats on it and you have a bench mounted vise with sharp jaws, you can clamp the cup in the vise and turn the frame. Do you have any of the bottom bracket apart? Down to just the fixed cup still in the frame? Do you need the cup? EDIT: You could also try Sheldon's trick tool at the bottom of this. If you could get someone to try it with an impact wrench, might be even better: http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html

Yeah, I a) never trust the manual data, and do the rollout method, though I don't get on the bike. Matches what I see on Strava and Mapmyride. Good enough.

Using the link Dr. Wood provided... http://www.woodcraft.com/search2/search.aspx?query=teak Maybe the Watco? I've never used this one, but did use a Watco linseed oil and liked it. Someone that is an expert should pipe up...

Ray makes power supplies and he is considered "high end". He's not the only one. I think many of the high end audio manufacturers have major fail in that regard, and have for years (see Counterpoint for an example). Agreed. I had some noise thru my system due to a light dimmer and the Brick Wall took care of it. Look at Zero Surge as they are the makers of Brick Wall.

Both bikes will take an English (BSC) threaded BB. You need to match the BB to the crankset you will be using. As to what tools to take them off, dunno. Old school, it would always be something like these: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/adjustable-type-bottom-bracket-service Apparently someone determined that that shit was broke, so came up with interminable new fangled combos. You'll have to take a closer look to see what you have.

That Trek probably wouldn't be too bad. I would bet it is closer to 24-25lbs, and should have 700c wheels (Matrix rims, 15g stainless spokes, Sansin sealed bearing hubs). Probably a 1990. Indexed 7 speed as well, for those that don't do friction. Looks like it would clean up quite nicely, but you would want to do a complete tear-down.

Happy Birthday guys!

Happy Birthday Greg!

Happy Birthday Justin!

^ Good idea! Me: 2012 Mac Mini (6.2), i7 Quad, 4Gb RAM, 1T HDD. Bought in Feb. this year from Apple store refurbs. Problems I have are slow startup, log-in, etc. Once stuff is running it seems pretty quick. What upgrade would bring the most bang for the buck? 1) 16Gb RAM 2) 250Gb Samsung EVO SSD 3) '??? Thanks for any input.

Holy crap x2! Good luck!

Good one Dusty! I didn't mention that the DAC was modded by Stan Warren, for whatever that is worth. It seems that the consensus is to pass on this as a trade?

The Stratos (which Reks has) runs these quite well. The larger full range ribbons were somewhat the reason that Krell came into being though, hence the nuclear power amp comment My brother used a Class D Audio SDS-254 that he and I built after he blew up his Counterpoint. He liked the Class D better than the Stratos with the Apogees, and better than a pair of Bel Canto Ref 1000 he borrowed from a friend. I have this amp as well and it is available, also cheap. The power supply was upgraded with Panasonic TSHA caps IIRC (I soldered them in).

Thanks for the thoughts. The Monarchy uses PCM63-Ks, which I think are still pretty well thought of. The particular unit has been modded by Stan Warren, and he was going to include some power cord (Tek-Line?) as well. The power cord has little value to me, but I thought the DAC would be easier to ship (and pack) than the speakers. Reks, really cheap if you can swing the Apogees! Shoot me a pm if interested.

Happy Birthday!

My brother left his Apogee Centaur speakers with me to sell when he left for South America. I've had an ad on US Audio Mart for quite awhile, and while it has attracted some responses (including 1 local, but couldn't meet up the same night he was looking at some Maggies), has not resulted in getting rid of these for my brother. I just got an offer for a trade for a Monarchy m22A, plus some Tek Line power cord. Anyone have an opinion on this DAC? It certainly would seem easier to sell for something without requiring me to pack or crate the speakers (dude would come and pick them up). Thanks for any input! p.s. And I know this is more like a bar... I am drinking a Sierra Nevada right now