Pars
High Rollers
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Joined
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Everything posted by Pars
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I usually use strips of masking tape to hold stuff on the board while I solder.
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Wow, OP got out of here alive... Re. the ATH ES7s, I bought a pair of them and they sounded so good I immediately returned them. I guess I could have asked "Will burn-in make me like these?", but I didn't...
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I thought digger had a larger hifi2000 case for sale, maybe a 4U or 5U... not sure if he sold it already or not.
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I dunno. I had a pair of DT-880s for awhile; got em from jeff (VPI). Nice midrange. Yes, a bit bass shy, and a bit bright. But very clear. And very comfortable. They had a number of qualities that I preferred over say HD-650s. A lot of this postulating somewhat depends on the idea of a house sound. I'm not sure that all manufacturers have or attain one throughout their product line. And I agree with posty on the aardvark comment. Some of these threads start to take on the very qualities that we deem shovel worthy from others.
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Anyone ever listen to the Fischer FA-003s? My brother bought a pair and is going to lend them to me...
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Happy Birthday!
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You may be onto something here Reks... left channel in my brother's amp also went...
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The far right fuse looks a little different, but doesn't really mean anything. Saw one thread on diyaudio regarding these, something about loose RCA grounds: Seeking help- something caused HUGE noise - diyAudio Do you have a meter, but just not there? At a minimum I would check the DC offset on both inputs if you have access to a DMM. And I have gotten schematics for free from Adcom just by asking them via email (if it comes to that). EDIT: A bit of info in this thread as well (see post 34) http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/56735-adcom-gfa535-bad-transformer-3.html And follow Doug's advice
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Happy Birthday Dinny!
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These should work: CPF3100R00FKB14 CPF3100K00FKE14, 6 in stock, 100ppm instead of 50ppm tempco Caps, not sure, would probably look at panasonic.
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Why don't they come with a Marshall double-stack stand?
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x2 (or more...) Thanks for sharing these!
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If I wanted to add a power indicator (LED), would it be best to power this from the heater supply, or from B+? I tried it with jumper clips from the heater supply and it worked fine. Kind of hard to tell when this is on or not, at least from a bit away from it.
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Cardas here if you want some more foo foo parts [url=http://www.diycable.com/main/default.php?cPath=26_44_49]DIYCable.com : Intro
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Sounds good Doug. Did you flip the heater rectifiers so they are all lined up the same way (eliminates any chance of tabs shorting to one another)? Post a pick of the board layout if you want any other comments.
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^ I would find that unusual, and think more of surges or overvoltage, particularly if all died of electrical problems.
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Remind me to never loan you any gear
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Surprised there is much if any difference in ride quality as I thought these were basically the same vehicle/chassis???
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Power amp, tried to start on fire
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It lives! Fired it up (not literally) last night, and things seem good. Takes around 4 hours to adjust bias and make sure it is stable, so will do that this week sometime. I guess the charred portion will just stay like it is as there is no plus to removing the board to clean it up as best I can, but lots of negatives as in 8 MOSFETs I could blow up...
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I didn't get mine from these guys, but you could try them. Also, I see the DA models all over amazon; just need to weed out the plastic LX ones. Jewelry Tools - SEP Jewelry Tools of Chicago, Inc. Also, be aware the the higher power ones (like the DA10s I have, 3.5X) have a pretty low focal length (~4") which makes soldering, etc. a bit challenging. I've meant to get another lower powered lens plate for mine, but just haven't gotten around to it yet
