Pars

Which one? Hagerman's (marc's link), or Swenson's?

Kevin, Have you ever tried John Swenson's snubber across the xfrmr secondaries? Tube DIY Asylum - Different type of snubber - John Swenson - March 26, 2010 at 15:08:48

Happy Birthday!

Forgive the stupid question, but why does the LED impedance matter in this application? From your previous post, mu (38) * 40 ohms is 1520, added to an rp of 3500 = 5020 ohms. Two red LEDs in series, assuming 10 ohms, would be 20 * 38 = 760 + rp (3500) = 4260 ohms. Higher, but not huge? I'm sure I'm missing something here?

Have a great birthday Jim! Hopefully no students tuition-paying units will fuck it up

That is a balance pot, not balanced. Percy recommends using silver conductive grease on the shaft to rectify this. It works, but the grease is kinda pricey.

Have you plugged directly into one of the router ports via ethernet? Or directly into the modem's ethernet port to take the router out of the equation? Maybe you are being censored?

Happy Birthday, you slacker, you... !!!

My condolences to Todd and to the families. Terrible tragedy.

I was referring to the protecting the CRD from overvoltage with a zener trick.

Sounds like a Mike Elliot (Counterpoint) trick. Watch the CRD voltage limits... the 1N stuff is usually 100V, but the J5xx series is only 50V. Elliot uses a 91V zener for protection also.

I'm using a roll of Kester 44 that I got from work over 20 years ago. Works fine. I know Kester has an expiration date, but I wouldn't worry about it. One more way of selling more solder IMO.

Happy Birthday!

Oh goody! I can put blue LEDs in

Happy Birthday Deepak!

sig worthy!

Two stupid comments, one bumping a 6 month old thread? methinks

I've used these Erse caps before in a preamp, and liked them. Probably not the last word in anything, but 22uf caps will get quite pricey. Not sure what kind of footprint you have available on the board, if they are board mounted as well. I would think these would be better sounding than any electro. I know Nelson likes Elna Silmic IIs for electros. For the PSU, I would probably use Panasonic; FMs if possible, or TSHAs if you need a snap in. [url=http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?cPath=35_145&products_id=647&Cid=aa9bf221a3528444387ec8299c2ded15]DIYCable.com : Intro

Got this email from Zu the other day, and thought I would post it here in case anyone is interested. I have a Zu something or other interconnect; it's OK and seems well made. Dear Valued Zu Customer, With the economy shadowing daily lives, we at Zu thought it was time to share a bit of good news with all of you. We’ve recently brought on a new CEO that has challenged us to provide our customers with new and innovative products at prices everyone can afford while providing quality, in both production and sound, you’ve come to expect from Zu. On Monday, September 7th, 2010, we will be launching a new cable line, the Mission. Mission Cable will be available to you and anyone you care to share this deal with for 5 days. Following the 5 day promotion offered to our Customers, we will launch this product world wide at retail prices. We're not boasting, well maybe a little, when we tell you that this is by far the best cable line that we've ever produced. If mission doesn't rock your world or you're not satisfied for any reason, you have our standard 60 day money back guarantee. Bottom line, this is one promotion you don't want to miss. From September 7th through September 10th, you’ll be able to enjoy 30% off retail while have the opportunity to get this revolutionary product before anyone else in the world. On top of that discount, if you choose to purchase two or more items from the Mission Cable line, you’ll receive 50% off your total purchase. Please take a moment and look over the products below and give us a call starting Monday to place your order. Please note, although these products are listed on our website, this special will only be given to those that call or email Zu direct at, 801-627-1040 or [email protected]. Attached you will find the price sheet associated with our customer appreciation sale. As always, we appreciate your continued support and look forward to continuing to provide you with the revolutionary sound you’ve come to expect from Zu.

Whoa.... that makes Dakiom look pretty normal

^ god are there some fucking douches in that thread... HF is anymore. And I can hardly understand what Sovshiller writes.

You can just turn it off and wait a minute or so before putting the resistors in. There is live AC back around the IEC, and also a pair of jumpers on the left side of the board back by the transformer, so stay away from there (or unplug it). Those shouldn't be a problem with the switch off though. It does have a bleeder resistor, so the caps etc. are drained pretty quickly.

I'll try to make it, would be good to see you peeps again!

Craig, I'll give you a call. How do your impressions stack up if you use the GCD-575 by itself? This is modified with a cetoole discrete I/V stage. I would think it at least has a decent chance of bettering the Pedja Rogic NOS TDA-1541a DAC that I built (and that he is listening to). Not sure about dynamics. The amp is probably going to require a decent amount of pot rotation with anything save Grados. Not sure if there is much at all that can be done about that, but I don't see anything wrong with turning it up that much. Also, did you try the higher bias on the CCS? Interested in what your take is on that as well. I could also lend you my Gilmore Dynalo to see what your thoughts are in comparison, but I know you like your toobies. EDIT: Also, how do the dynamics compare to your Apogees? If they are similar, then that is probably about all that you can ask for with your source, etc.

PSUs though can and do weigh a bit, or at least the transformers for said PSUs. The DAC chip itself may not need much current, but a good discrete output stage can. Switching PSUs tend to be pretty light; hope that isn't what is being used here, or if it is, that it is well designed to deal with noise. Oven controlled clocks are useless for jitter as the temp control is for long term stability; jitter is short term stability.