Laowei

Very nice build. Any inside shots?

A beautiful build inside and out, Geoff!

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Good advise. I use those wooden coffee stirrers at Starbucks as spacers while soldering the resistors to the boards. When done, pull 'em out. Gives a nice uniform outcome.

Orange is the new black. Focal Utopia is the new Audeze LCD-4. Meh. Berylium works good for dynamic compression drivers. Have had a pair of TAD 2001s for years in my horn system. Before I retired them for Vintage ESS Heil Great AMTs. They are worlds better.

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/boards/goldenreference6.zip

Before my conversion to Stax, I enjoyed a DIY Marsh Headphone built from the thread over on DIYAUDIO.com.: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/headphone-systems/211394-marsh-headphone-amp-linear-audio.html

Well done Sir! How do they sound?

Really clean and inspiring build John! Lots of clever details. Bet it will sound fantastic!

Looking for anyone who could part (for a price) with a pair of separate plus minus GR-LV boards. It would help clean up the packaging on the KGSSHV-Carbon I'm slowly putting together. The bipolar boards I have are a wee bit too big for the space allocated. Thanks.

I haven't tried, but some report that DSD files converted on the fly to PCM sound pretty good on the Yggy.

Schiit.

In fact, The Republic of China was a democracy for a short period of time following the end of the Qing dynasty. From 1911 to 1949. Founded by Sun Yat-sen who was schooled in Hawaii. With their long tradition of Confusianism I doubt if China could ever be a functioning democracy. And now back to the original topic.....

You might try checking the Yggy's BNC. Some early ones like mine had a 50 ohm one installed from Schiit, vs a 75 ohm one. That could be causing some minor impedance matching issues. For the visual differences, see the Schiit product pages. The Gungnir rear photo shows a 75 ohm connector with a bare center pin. The Yggy shows a 50 ohm with the pin within a Teflon tube. There is a thread on another forum where Schiit acknowledges the problem, and offered exchange out if anyone thinks this is an issue. You might try contacting them directly if optimizing the BNC SPDIF input is on your agenda.

I would. In the last 4 years I've spent over 17 months back and forth in Mainland China for business. Everything from Stinky Tofu (made with human feces instead of fermented tofu) to mink and rat meat sold as lamb in high class Shanghai restaurants. Rolexes, Beats HPs, Starbux, Obama Fried Chicken..... You name it, if it's in the PRC more than likely it's fake.

Everything is fake in China. It's the way of life there.

Sharp looker.

Thanks HemiSam. My question was really too broad to answer. I'll just go find a fun to drive used car. Driving a slow car fast can be more fun than driving a fast car slow.

The new Gen 3 CTS-V has the supercharged V8. 650hp vs 464hp for the ATS-V. Does 0-60 in 3.7 seconds vs 3.8 in the auto ATS-V. Top speed >201mph vs 189. Thinking I'll end up paying $20-30k cash now for something used to get by for a couple of years. Any opinions?

The twin turbo V6 LF4 in the ATS-V has only been out around 6 months and already the tuners have them running low 10's in the quarter. With only a tune and downpipe the HP get upped 140, and 170ft/pounds more torque. The motor should take it as it is a detuned race motor with titanium connecting rods and sodium filled valves. Crazy easy to mod. Have not decided what to get next. My old 2003 CTS has 218k miles and a head gasket was starting to weep. I'll probably go lot shopping to a buy a cheap daily driver for now, with no sky high payments. Maybe later a ZL1 Camaro......

Looks like my new Cadillac ATS-V will be getting bought back by the dealer next week. I took ownership last December 6th. Mechanically it is an awesome driving experience. The engineering of the motor, 8 speed automatic transmission, electronic LSD, and suspension is superb. Absolutely no drama. Adjusted to Track/Race mode is funner than hell. Saw an easy 140 mph in it. Felt like a Toyota at legal speeds. In Tour mode, the perfect daily driver. Again, no drama. Ever. Too bad the assembly quality is for shit in such an expensive car. The few problems I've had, HUD and performance pedals tilted/skewed, and a fucked up HVAC system, have been too difficult for the dealer or Cadillac Regional Rep to get fixed. The Cadillac spec sheet says when both driver and passenger sides are sync'ed at the same temp, a 12 degree difference is considered "normal" Drove another new one last Saturday, and although the HUD and pedals were straight, the HVAC in that one was acting up similar to mine. Always blows cold, even when the temperature is cranked. Drivers side set at 78 degrees and the passenger side at 68, and both side blowing the same cold air. And cannot electrically turn off the vents, so that went the fans or HVAC is turned off, Coke ambient air blows more. The only way it stop it is to manually close the vents. So much for swapping me into another new one. Too bad, as the ATS-V really is a 4 door Corvette. More HP and torque than a Z51, and faster on the track too. A really enjoyable car. But the UAW build is not ready for prime time, and some basic interior functions just don't work. Might have to revisit in a few years.

That will work fine. You may have to add small heat sinks to the pass transistors.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/221765958085 You can drill to fit the 8mm shaft.

Whatever amp you build, be sure to stuff the case full of Bybees.