luvdunhill

I am going to give the REL HT/1003 a shot.

I dunno - the REL aren’t reassuringly expensive and the SVS aren’t the most aesthetically pleasing. So, REL HT or the ones with the confusing slashes in their names?

I am happy with my Sunfire HRS-12 and considering a different strategy for the lake house than the current two passive subs. I am looking for something similar size or smaller (20” cube) to pair with B&W in-walls. An in-wall sub won’t work. What recommendations are there for HT these days?

How quaint.

That’s for playing darts though!

Curved OB baffles like these could be cool - I presume you’ll could cut a stick to look like that over a few days?

Hm; no idea - I use DH Labs cables and they don’t seem to “sound”, so perhaps that means they are “neutral”?

It has an amazing front to back soundstage - I am not sure how exactly, but there you go.

Nope, it “was” Nora Jones. Now it is someone named Snotty.

Sure! https://symbolaudio.com/ Does anyone know if Speaker’s Corner reprints items in their reissue catalog, or are they limited / single run.

MySpace? I am confused whether I am too old for this, or not old enough

Just keeping everyone on their toes

Wasn’t that featured in Goldfinger? I mean who am I to judge what you use it for...

Monk / Coltrane

Yes, but you will need something to drive the new motor. The VPI one runs off wall voltage and the BLDC 3-phase 24V.

The $800 is for the entire motor pod, which includes the massive stainless steel milled enclosure. You can definitely ask VPI about a warrantee replacement. They are very approachable and helpful. Say hi to Tara and the gang for me - they are busy but willing to help. I think it’s reasonable to start here. That project won’t be very cost effective - the 24V Anaheim motor will run around the same price shipped - say $100. The stuffed boards, will run around $200 for the two and then you have casing and the bits for the tach (optional) - maybe $100. It comes in lower than what SOTA is asking, but obviously more than replacing the motor.

The stock motor is a Hurst P/N 3201-001 - for the 300rpm motor. You might have the 600rpm motor. First order would be to check then you can order direct or take your chances with a used one: http://www.hurst-motors.com/papbdirectdrive.html I am replacing it with a motor from Anaheim Automation - likely same motor as SOTA. I am thinking about trying CircuitPython. Using a Cortex M4 - well, will be. https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/307918-3-phase-class-amp-diy-bldc-motor-drive.html https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/298018-diy-4-phase-sinewave-generator-turntable-motor-drive.html https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/301609-digital-tachometer-record-player-lcd-display.html I can supply most of the bits if you decide to go this route.

Ok, fair enough! I have about a hundred irons in the fire on this project - just debugged the display and moving onto casing up the controller - then I need to layout a backplane and then write some software.

Yeah, this is definitely doable. Do you just want to replace the motor? I can do that for you, if you would like / or walk you through this. If you want upgrade, you can ride on my coat-tails, I am doing the same process - motor, controller and tach. The SOTA offerings are provided in a slightly less turnkey format to the DIY community.

@bhjazz did you already hit the buy button / inclined for some DIY?

Bolted a slightly different one of these (than I just sold) together 😅 I need to revise my little autoswitcher board to make sure the negative input is grounded when the RCA is input is chosen - a difference between the two boards. Also, interesting way to hide the front panel screws, note the two small set screws I just measured them and they perform as stated. Will try and listen to them this weekend and then back on the bench to get the inputswitcher working...

Oh! https://www.waxingmoonhumidors.com/

Nope, been in the Cuban catalogue since 1975. It’s a Robusto with a fancy name.

Ramon Allones Specially Selected

I would tie the shell to the chassis and have a jumper for the pin 1 to go either to AGND or Earth. Does the vertical height of the two parts match up well enough?