luvdunhill

check Doug's post above, it should help you out.

Woah Al. What's the occasion?

well-done kind sir!

perhaps traditional dynamic drivers would have been better. You looked at the right page though, the explanation is right about the paragraph you excised: "It is a power trans-conductance amplifier (or power current source, if you like), replicating an input voltage into an output current. A regular amplifier sends output voltage to the loudspeaker. This is not that kind of amplifier. This amplifier ignores the elements in series with the load circuit, including back-emf, wire resistance, inductance and such, and creates voice coil acceleration in direct proportion to the input signal." Has anyone here heard (or considered the upgrades) the F1J?

MoAT MoAT MoAT MoAT MoAT ?

Perhaps I missed the proper "turn on" then?

elnero: when you turn your head to the extreme left or right (keeping your body facing forward) does the seal stay or can you hear it loosen up?

hm.. did I mention the legs? oh, regarding the different direction, I feel that knife switches are under-appreciated:

.. it's a red double D though.. does that help?

Member of Another Trade?

Tom, what I meant was, installing the heat sink and then tapping the two holes in the top of heat sink and then screw the lid down into these holes. Thus using the the heat sink itself as a heat transfer mechanism to the case. I cannot find any pics of me doing this, but I've done it quite a bit with good results. However, point taken about the case already getting pretty warm.

why not just couple the heat sink to the top instead of drilling all those little holes? you have a large chunk of aluminum right there to help dissipate heat! Did you actually use the mounting holes on the sides of the PCB? They're on the drawings, so I assumed so. Are they really needed?

yeah, I ordered it and noticed the same thing

Mine too. I kitted the other half of a kit and things are looking pretty good. I noticed I'm missing a fuse, and it doesn't seem to be on the BOM. Any recommendations? Also, those case tops need a bit of grease, mine was impossible to move by hand even... Do either of you guys have a FPE file I could use as a template to cut the end panels?

nice!

Inu, nice! Would you mind sharing who did the power coating to a fellow Texan?

I'm assuming that's the "major diameter"? I thought they had square pins...

when you were standing and line and brought this issue up, did the people that just showed up apologize to you, or did they just pretend nothing had happened?

Damn those people that just think they can just show up and everything will be okay! These type of things require proper planning, don't they realize that?

Thanks Doug!

Ah I should have looked here first. In fact the cap I'm looking at is rated 200VDC...

I cannot seem to find a voltage anywhere on the schematic, so ... what's the minimum safe voltage for the big film caps?

yeah, I've used those in the past too... hm. Good idea!

does anyone know of a chassis mount, screw down barrier strip (like Cinch makes) that has an integrated (or optional) plastic safety cover?

lusting after knobs is perfectly fine around here... NTTIAWWT...