luvdunhill

I dunno, say another $300? Maybe that's a lot percentage wise... I still maintain my hubristic (dunno if that's a word, but hey..) comment that graces the title of the "ZYX" thread I started here.

this is the general idea... the heat sinks totally dwarf that big Plitron

strangely enough, I really like them with the Millet Tube Portable... I'm working on another amp specifically designed with orthos in mind that will be part of my preamp.

you should post some impressions once you decide to go with a SUT or upping the gain on the beta22

all that acrylic makes me nauseous

The input caps are still present when it's in passive mode. They are 10uF 'lytics bypassed with a 1uF polyester. Depending on your sources, you could eliminate these caps, or replace them with Black Gates. If the latter, you'll need to get a hold of some BG N 47uF/50V and BG N 10uF/50V, which are getting scarce. If you want to avoid BG, you'll have to fit a ton of films in there, which will be hard and not cheap.

sweet! know anyone who's handy with a soldering iron, or looking to get into DIY?

2 new-in-box Crydom D1225 SSR.. I bid $1 and won and the guy sold me a second for $3. $5.50 shipping. This is an insanely good deal if you need these, and he's relisted the auction and probably has more... Here's the auction: NEW in the box Crydom D1225 Solid State Relay - eBay (item 290275899040 end time Nov-23-08 16:11:30 PST) They sell for ~$30 each at Mouser.

yes, you can order just one. I've ordered 4-5 custom R-Cores from vt4c. In fact, I'm using a pair of custom R-Cores in my preamp 96 VCT @ 50VA each. It will take a month or so though, and to that point I'd hurry in order to avoid the usual delays around Chinese New Year. One thing, is they are pretty conservative on their VA ratings and for custom work they'll give you around 80% of the total theoretical VA rating to work with. If you go the Dantimax route, look at the Standby2 for 5v out (or maybe use a rigged up e24), I'm using it to power some things as well as providing switched power, which is very convenient. Also, there's another guy selling R-cores on Ebay, analog888 that might have something in stock you can use. He can get things custom wound as well, but I have no experience there.

for your preamp?

my opinion on the matter, which is irrelevant really, is that a nice compromise here is to commission a build from someone who doesn't build these on a full time basis. This way, I think you could achieve your monetary goals without supporting someone who very likely in the near future will get shut down like the others that have tried this in the past. Also, another member here bought an amplifier from this guy, I can tell you 100% that the parts in fact cannot be to spec, as this builder upon cross-examination said it was, which calls into question his honesty in addition to his ethics.

recstar24: I don't know where your ethics lie, but you might be interesting in reading this thread: diyAudio Forums - Someone's DIY Aleph J for Sale - Page 1

taken from here: chassis/enclosure questions.... - Page 2 - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio

so, does anyone need anything anodized black? I found a place to do it locally, but requires a minimum order of $100...

in which case, you could reterminate the volex cords... half the work!

as long as the black Delrin rod doesn't get involved.

actually, the Adcom is a perfect unit for modding, but I didn't get the impression that was the direction you wanted to persue. edit: oh I was confused... anyways, yes your correct.

... and maintains proper phase.

I think you are confused between EMI and RFI. The tests below were specifically for EMI. Not thing to vindicate the vendor here, but it's hard to say what frequency of EMI is considered "bad" for electronics. For example, what is the impact on wide-band opamp circuits working in ranges > 1MHz like used in amb's mini3 portable?

oh and what EMI frequencies are important in the audio field, pray tell?

There are some significant differences. The CCS is a different type (passive) and there are electrotylics in the gain circuit in the Adcom. Finally, the Adcom has very cheap DC coupling caps on both the input and the output. I'd call the GFP a "poor mans" Aleph P. There are a few other differences, but it's been a while. You're definitely not pulling a "Sherwood" here, but just figured I'd let you know that you're not quite on target FWIW, the Nakamichi Nelson Pass implementations (CA7II and PA7II) are quite a bit better.

oh, and before you ask what the last two items are for....

just bought some metal online. If anyone needs to buy from onlinemetals.com, let me know and I can send you a discount coupon as part of their refer a friend. It's an additional 5% off, which is added to their 5% discount for signing up and the 10% discount for material orders over $100. Anyways, here's what I got: Aluminum 6061-T6 Bare Extruded Square 0.375" Cut to: 11.8425" 8 @ $1.66 Aluminum 3003-H14 Perforated Sheet Round Hole 0.125" Thick (0.5" dia. holes) 0.6875" stagger Cut to: 12.0457" x 5" 4 @ $10.84 Aluminum 6061-T6 Bare Extruded Rectangle 0.375" x 2" Cut to: 4.25" 4 @ $2.55 Plastic Teflon Virgin NATURAL Extruded Round 0.8125" Cut to: 12" 1 @ $9.03 Plastic Acetal Black Round 1.375" Cut to: 12" 1 @ $9.29

I'd be more worried getting a prank call from a hacker if I had a pacemaker....

hey, have you ever considered trying a First Watt F3 with your Gallos? I know you may be headed down another path, but I think it would be worth trying... Here's a F3+Gallo review.. 6moons audio reviews: FirstWatt F3/Gallo Ref 3.1 - A brief riff on good sound and the power required to make it