luvdunhill

Interesting thread that has popped up from some recent controversy in Stereophile surround the Halco amps. A few heavy-weights are in on this discussion, so it should be interesting! http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1404200

Is that a pancake on the bunny's head?

I'll make a cable this week ... I have the stock cable and some XLRs around that I can use

I think you'll enjoy listening to Al's Twisted Pear stuff as well as Al's new source. Sadly, my DI DAC (the topic of this thread) will not be done by then, and even if it did I'd need a transport (that one you have probably would work nicely, after I did a few mods here and there ...) Actually, perhaps nate will see this. Do you know the transport (and more importantly) the decoder chip (SAAxxxx) used in that transport you made? Perhaps you have some pics of the insides somewhere?

yeah, I'm doing a lot of comparisons to my modded MPX3 SE w/ the HD-650 and the KGSS + SR-007. One thing that is strange is that there is a lot less sibilance with the electrostatic rig... I'm not sure if this is a good thing or a bad thing... I mean, it's good in that is sounds better, but perhaps bad in that it's less accurate. This is from rather crummy Verve pressings that are known for this. We'll spin up some Diana Krall at my place and I'll let you listen as well. I'm a bit worried that I won't be able to get things setup just right at the meet, as my current tweaking took a long time to get right. I am going to take this opportunity to send my cartridge in for a cleaning after the meet, so all is good.

do you own a Pico? I didn't see your screen name on the pre-order list. If so, then contact Justin... he offers good support for his products.

sounds pretty impossible to me...

yeah, and the strange thing with your speakers that go down to 45, is there may be a peak in the 50-100 range that is causing them to satisfy your extension needs So, I can think of 3-4 people that I sat down for a day with a RTA analyzer and balanced things out, moved around home-made fiberglass panels, worked on first reflections, ceilings, etc. and every single person hated the results.... the main complaint, was lack of fullness in this lower region and a "brighter" sounding room.... however, after a few months, none of them would go back and definitely were able to hear / appreciate more minor changes in their setups (from tweaks, cables, cartridge alignment, etc.) Strange phenomenon, but there you have it.

only 3 posts? I definitely don't trust this guy... The real question is how did it fair to the nice electrostatic rig you are babysitting

interesting point. So, the whole reason I got interested in headphones was that my Magnepans had some roll-off around this point. The thing I finally noticed after doing some research was that it wasn't the ~30hz roll-off that was the problem, it was the large room suck-outs at 100Hz and 50Hz due to room modes (and for some reason lack of standard room gain in these regions). Until you analyze the room interactions it's tough to say. However, I would caution you to solely look at frequency response. Once I fixed these things (square rooms are the devil) then I noticed there was some information missing and the sub really did help things. Music? Perhaps not at this point, but definitely auditory clues of some sort. The problem is that integrating another driver is next to impossible (this is a general problem though) and unfortunately, in my opinion, impossible really to do by ear... Just my $0.02 worth.

I owned a REL Strata II sub for a while, 'cause everyone said it was the best sub to pair with my Maggies.... It was supposedly fast enough to keep up with the 'planars... well, that was a load of crap, and when I actually bothered to trust my ears, I found an excellent match... a pair of Vandersteen 2Wq. Just listen to a few, buy and sell (then buy and sell) ... repeat until satisfied.

maybe m-audio sells something for the dj / recording type? I seriously doubt such a thing exists. For DIY possibilities, how about one of these: http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/pcm2707.pdf ^^ ^^ dunno what I'm smoking ... please ignore

it's possible that the coaxial cable is using the ground of the connected component. Since the optical cable has no such provision, that might explain things.

AKG service manuals may be of help... I'm not sure if other vendors do this, but I know that AKG does.

are you referring to the legalized live sex acts in Oregon?

If it were me using the MPX3 as a preamp, I'd try a few 3 6SN7 combos and think about ditching the 5687. They are great sounding tubes, but in a preamp context I think most "standard" recommendations might go out the door. I'm going down this route as well, and can comment later on as well.

pretty much... not to mention MD5 collisions using a PS3 is trivial these days I cannot complain, as stuff like this puts bread on my table...

so... I finished adding all Black Gates to my MPX3 last night... all the low voltage caps are upgraded now... good thing is, I just have to keep it on without signal to burn 'em in, as the CRC heater supply was effected mostly. I'm not sure if this will make much a difference, but what the heck.

so, I'm looking inside yet another MPX3, this one has a "XLR" jack wired up in the back. The pin 2 (left when looking at the back of the jack) is wired to the input signal and the ground is taken, not from the remain two pins, but the brass tab that is tied to the jack itself. Symptom is that when using this jack or the other RCA jacks, a bit of the other signals leak into the selected input if multiple inputs are turned on. So, question is, is this wiring scheme for a XLR->RCA converter valid? Is this the source of this problem, or is it related to the switch itself?

I played with the kids today in the yard wearing shorts... it was like sunny and 65 or so in the afternoon ...

doesn't WINE run on a Mac?

great! I've called FPE multiple times and they are very easy to work with and are extremely helpful. Keep me posted

you could get creative and do a standard neutrik cutout and then make a small piece that the jack screws in and then rear mount that and use the two holes in the neutrik cutout to secure the adapter. If you go this way, have FPE make a ton of the adapters and sell 'em. You can panelize the thing and add some scoring marks to break them out. How much do these things run? I might be interested in working on it with you

you could just make an entire panel at FPE to accommodate the connectors, or are you looking to retrofit and existing project?