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Everything posted by penmarker

  1. How good would something like this for transistor matching? https://www.ebay.com.my/itm/152443029396
  2. Its the Google Translate doing its magic. IIRC transformers are translated into "cows". I've bought a Naim NAP200 assembled board once. They replaced all polystyrene caps with mica and the 2922 are fakes - among others. In retrospect, for the amount of work needed to redo the thing I should've started with a blank board.
  3. I think I found the Dynalo gerber files. There are several iterations with SMT versions as the recent ones. I don't know if I can share the Google Drive link since it was shared to me by Mr. Gilmore.
  4. Dude even sells an RK50 https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=555379677261 Perfect for when you want your volume pot to cost more than the whole build.
  5. How does it compare with the metal transformer can? I'm planning to complete the build first and assess the level of interference. If required I'll add in the shielding.
  6. I thought it sounded like Doge, as in the Shibe Doge.
  7. Thank you very much. Yeah I've been looking back through the thread and I saw some images of single chassis builds including yours. Initially I've been looking at transformer cans but they're all far too tall to fit in my case. I'd have to get a smaller transformer with a smaller VA, current choice is 160VA. Rumina does have transformers directly below the amp boards but they're shielded well with sheet band around it. link That would be very helpful. My other option is to build a 2 chassis amp, but I think it'll be too bulky. I mean, it's a headphone amp the size of a power amp. **edit Heheh. Looking at Nuforce HA-200 gave me some ideas... If only the case I ordered isn't 70mm tall... more like 40-50mm would be nice for a stack of balanced.
  8. They might have changed the pricing, now its $60.52 for 8 LSK170 and $69.47 for 8 LSJ74. That there alone costs as much as some mini headphone amps. I might just gamble choosing among ~4 THAT340 instead since we can get it locally/easily from Element14. Anyway, I've purchased a chassis and thinking about doing a single chassis build. I've made a rough layout of what it could look like, appreciate it if others could chime in. 2 images; the first shows only bottom floor layout without the amp boards above it. The second shows all boards including proposed front panel layout. Toroid is in the middle and amp will be powered by single Beta22 mounted on heatsinks in blue. Orange board at the rear right is a balanced relay switcher with a small 12v transformer+BR for power. Amp boards will be attached on the top of the case and fastened to the walls with standard L profile like others. Because of the size of the transformer, the only location it could be is in the middle where there aren't any tall components on the amp board above it.
  9. Saw that site when I was googling about LSJ74/LSK170. That's mad, $49.99x2 for a balanced board.
  10. If you don't mind looking like a tool, a Sony PFR-V1 is cheaper.
  11. Better to use XLR, no issue with shorting outputs when plugging in too.
  12. Since its 4.4mm and not 3.5mm or 6.35mm, how will it be backwards compatible?
  13. Wewlad. Glad I didn't get them yet. Thanks a lot. I got some BOMs but I didn't check the power rating. So would it be ok to use resistors at higher rating?
  14. Any drawbacks if I use resistors rated at higher power? For instance the 50Ω resistor at 1/8W costs 4X higher than the 1W counterpart. Also, just a thought. How bad is it to have long flying leads to the front panel for the feedback resistors so I can make a gain switch? Or is it just better to not do it.
  15. Sorry if this is off topic, but what are balanced differential amps? I think I understood it when it comes to balanced studio monitors where one of the the balanced inputs gets inverted so common mode rejection will reduce noise. Headphones however usually has +ve and -ve pumping push-pull straight to the drivers. How would a differential amp work? Or maybe mention some balanced differential headphone amps and I guess I can go from there.
  16. Ah ok that's enlightening. Here where I'm from, Multicomp resistors are cheaper compared to Dale at similar tolerance, value, and rating. But not much, maybe only 3/4 or 2/3 the price. We're talking cents here not dollars.
  17. He can't, because they've already established relations with HF. HF hates SBAF to the core. You can't even link to SBAF in HF threads. I did it once and I got a pm by a mod saying I can't do some things. Imagine hating another forum which has I think less than a quarter for your traffic, and then seeing your good friend go there to market his products. HF is gonna do a temper tantrum. They salty as fuck.
  18. I'm inexperienced with builds but can I just check with you how hot are the heatsinks? Are all of the output transistors fastened tightly against the heatsink? Do you have proper thermal paste/heatsinking compound? Thank you very much this is very clear. I've had some ideas about the input/output wiring, so I needed confirmation. My personal take regarding inaudible changes is if you need to focus hard to detect changes then it probably wouldn't matter. But I don't know whether there is something happening electrically that could affect the unit in the long run, I doubt so. Just last night some of my friends were having a group chat on our phones and they were discussing about resistor rolling. One guy showed tantalum resistors that cost around €5-7 a pop. He wants to upgrade his Cambridge Audio phono pre. I think that was a little mad, resistors don't change the sound. do they? But then again, I do see a lot of people using the same Dale resistors for the Dynahi.
  19. Having both SE and balanced input+output is good for versatility. A lot of headphones has non removable cables to get replacement XLR cables. For my case, my Matrix Mini-i DAC has balanced output but my turntable and CDP only has SE so I'll need that capability too. For inputs I think it'll be okay since I'm planning to get balanced relay switches, but for the output should both LR ground and -ve be terminated to the headphone ground? Or how should it be? Only both channel ground without -ve connection?
  20. Speaking of grounding, should the each ground and -ve input be grounded to their respective boards or it doesn't matter? Since SE has both grounds tied that means both boards will have their -ve and ground tied together.
  21. I used this for a clone power amp I built. The button's LED taps straight into the 220V mains power so you only need to parallel it to the transformer. I have no idea what circuitry it has inside the housing. http://www.ebay.com/itm/172247784910 But its probably as safe as it sounds like.
  22. I am planning to build using the most recent board and I've been in contact with Dr. Gilmore and several other users here. Luckily a friend of mine is sending out some PCBs for etching so I can tag along with him. Annoyingly enough, case size needs to be very big to accommodate both amp and PSU, with heatsinks. The cost really starts to hike up from thereon.
  23. Ferraris are fast because they're red. Didn't you guys read the memo? Christ.
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