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Woodworkers of Head Case unite!

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Best 8” jointer without 18 month wait list…Go

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Are we in the Paleolithic era? I can't imagine buying a jointer or planer today that doesn't have a helical head. 

I'll second Naaman's recommendations, I think Doug must have put the wrong mushrooms on his pizza!

1 hour ago, swt61 said:

I think Doug must have put the wrong mushrooms on his pizza!

I just assumed that someone selling a $750 jointer for $15,000 would have plenty of stock.

I assumed Doug was recommending a jointer made by 92 year old dwarves that have been made by the same dwarves for 72 years and end up being harder to use than sand paper in jointing, so I can earn the flat surface.  Anything Naaman recommends only fits in his ever expanding garage, weighs more than my truck and takes 320 weeks to show up. 

2 minutes ago, VPI said:

I assumed Doug was recommending a jointer made by 92 year old dwarves that have been made by the same dwarves for 72 years and end up being harder to use than sand paper in jointing, so I can earn the flat surface.  Anything Naaman recommends only fits in his ever expanding garage, weighs more than my truck and takes 320 weeks to show up. 

First recommendation, yes. Second, only two weeks. 

I was looking at the parrallelllaggrammmm thing and decided the extra depth of the cabinet was not worth the minuscule amount of accuracy that may be gained. Accuracy that is all destroyed by my shitty craftsmanship. 

While the shop is shut down until the electrician decides it is warm enough to run the conduit outside, I have been trying to learn Sketchup and model some of the projects I am in the middle of. 
 

Kind of clunky at first but it works pretty well you you figure out all the tools. 
Need to download some more wood textures as I do not like the Walnut I have and there is no Ambrosia Maple, the lighter wood in this project. 
 

B12A31CD-D656-4EF1-A81F-0D73834F83E3.jpeg

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Edited by VPI

22 hours ago, VPI said:

While the shop is shut down until the electrician decides it is warm enough to run the conduit outside, I have been trying to learn Sketchup and model some of the projects I am in the middle of. 
 

Kind of clunky at first but it works pretty well you you figure out all the tools. 
Need to download some more wood textures as I do not like the Walnut I have and there is no Ambrosia Maple, the lighter wood in this project. 
 

B12A31CD-D656-4EF1-A81F-0D73834F83E3.jpeg

19445491-4A10-42F9-B67A-DF2962066357.jpeg

D5594399-70B4-4D2D-9026-6C9D08B74EB5.jpeg

4462791F-87D2-49A9-965F-7F149E43108F.jpeg

Looking good! Bringing what is in my head to the real/digital world is always a challenge. 

 

Here is my preliminary plan for the miter station. Frameless cabinets with butcherblock tops. The two cabinets will have slide out trays. Any suggestions?

Room Garage - Perspective.jpg

23 hours ago, VPI said:

 model some of the projects

I think those little feet may need something to keep them from snapping off

That is my concern as well. Working on other options as well. 
 

 

BD56FEBB-1859-43A1-B34D-46E8FE574016.jpeg

2 hours ago, naamanf said:

Looking good! Bringing what is in my head to the real/digital world is always a challenge. 

 

Here is my preliminary plan for the miter station. Frameless cabinets with butcherblock tops. The two cabinets will have slide out trays. Any suggestions?

Room Garage - Perspective.jpg

So much fucking storage. I would love half the drawers but I kind of like the idea of vertical pull out trays for mounting woodpecker stuff, saw blades etc. I am sure you have all that stuff stored elsewhere already. 

21 minutes ago, VPI said:

That is my concern as well. Working on other options as well. 
 

 

BD56FEBB-1859-43A1-B34D-46E8FE574016.jpeg

Feet like that are popular these days, so clearly it can be done. Something like a sliding dovetail and a very strong piece of wood might do it. Depends what is going on the drawers.

  • Author
3 hours ago, naamanf said:

Looking good! Bringing what is in my head to the real/digital world is always a challenge. 

 

Here is my preliminary plan for the miter station. Frameless cabinets with butcherblock tops. The two cabinets will have slide out trays. Any suggestions?

Room Garage - Perspective.jpg

Offset saw is a good idea in that space. What's your max cut capacity (length on the left side)?

What are you planning between the cabinets (the space under the miter saw)?

One thing I'd suggest is no miter fence on either side of the saw. Al and I both agree with the Wood Whisperer, that the only important fence is that of the saw. A fence on the cabinets could actually throw off a cut with a warped board. A T track set into the countertop on both sides of the saw, with a sliding stop block is all you need.

  • Author
1 hour ago, dsavitsk said:

Feet like that are popular these days, so clearly it can be done. Something like a sliding dovetail and a very strong piece of wood might do it. Depends what is going on the drawers.

Agreed. A sliding dovetail with a really strong species of wood would be the strongest option. I've seen it done with dominoes, but with a shallower angle. Even so, the sliding dovetail would still be superior. I also like the look of joinery like that. It shows craftsmanship. 

No doubt the angled legs look much nicer than the chunky, little feet. Especially on a mid century modern design. 

I would turn that base and legs on edge though. It'll still look great, but be immensely stronger. 

Edited by swt61

Instead of 4 little feet, you could do 2 wide feet. That will increase strength considerably without changing the look much. You would also then be able to add a beam down the center that would be largely unseen, but with a sort of lap joint, help hold the wider feet in place.

14 minutes ago, swt61 said:

Offset saw is a good idea in that space. What's your max cut capacity (length on the left side)?

What are you planning between the cabinets (the space under the miter saw)?

One thing I'd suggest is no miter fence on either side of the saw. Al and I both agree with the Wood Whisperer, that the only important fence is that of the saw. A fence on the cabinets could actually throw off a cut with a warped board. A T track set into the countertop on both sides of the saw, with a sliding stop block is all you need.

8ft to the left and 14+ to the right. The wall is inset where the miter station will go. So should be good to go either side. Dust collector will be under the saw. No fence, just planning to install some T track. 

I was contemplating a single piece leg for both legs made of the 8/4 Wenge I have laying everywhere, I just could not figure out how to do that in Skethup.  I really do not trust my skills, or lack of bandsaw though so I am looking at other ideas  

That being said, are you guys with the Hammer bandsaws using their blades or some Murican ones with proper measurements?

Also, I want to see more of Naaman’s 3D shop. Do you have everything modeled in Fusion?

Edited by VPI

24 minutes ago, VPI said:

I was contemplating a single piece leg for both legs made of the 8/4 Wenge I have laying everywhere, I just could not figure out how to do that in Skethup.  I really do not trust my skills, or lack of bandsaw though so I am looking at other ideas  

That being said, are you guys with the Hammer bandsaws using their blades or some Murican ones with proper measurements?

Also, I want to see more of Naaman’s 3D shop. Do you have everything modeled in Fusion?

I don't, it's actually all in Mozaik. I can import Sketchup models and place them in the Mozaik room with the cabinets. 

  • Author

Single legs are not necessarily going to be stronger. Especially Wenge, because there's going to be a section where the grain will cross the pattern and be very weak.

2 hours ago, naamanf said:

8ft to the left and 14+ to the right. The wall is inset where the miter station will go. So should be good to go either side. Dust collector will be under the saw. No fence, just planning to install some T track. 

I got intrigued by the Woodpeckers StealthStop, which should arrive soon. Embedded track with rulers and stops that flip up and have micro-adjust. Not using the optional fence portion as Steve mentioned. 

EB3ECD28-2624-46C6-98A6-E13517D6B637.thumb.jpeg.4fcac7231b3d39b3607b33c1c496ab9b.jpeg

Those look pretty cool, I'll have to see if they fit in a normal T track. 

On 1/30/2022 at 4:22 PM, swt61 said:

Single legs are not necessarily going to be stronger. Especially Wenge, because there's going to be a section where the grain will cross the pattern and be very weak.

Tell that to him.

The Pirate Captain Illustration 10476064 - Megapixl

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