Hello Board

Im working on a shitty little amp that assuming the stars and plannets are in alignment will be at canjam. at the moment, not 1 part has been soldered but the casework is done and being painted....

Now that I have cursed my project by admitting that it exists:

The case (a cheap "BUD box") that I am painting with hammer-tone paint, because it will (hopefully) mask some of my horrific screwups with the drill and could not ever look even close to as bad as a naked BUD box.

I painted one corner of the top a little thicker than the rest, should I worry? Im going back for coat #2 in about 45 min...

Thanks

Ari

Ari,

Don't sweat the small stuff.

I've found the Hammer-Tone stuff is generally pretty forgiving, BUT I would avoid getting carried away with heavy coats. Take your time and let it flash off a bit before the next coats are applied. This is what has worked best for me. You'll be fine.

Just run a dremel along the inside, and no-one will pay any attention to the outside.

Just run a dremel along the inside, and no-one will pay any attention to the outside.

Not to fear: Dremel tool used extensively I actually managed to cut a hole for the IEC that dosnt look like cookie-monster went to town on my case, I consider this an accomplishment.

The second coat went on with just enough time to set before it started to rain. The amp looks OK, although not exactly as "hammered" as I would have liked. Such is life.

If you want that authentic hammered effect, feel free to send it to me and I'll give it the full Thor treatment. Hammertime!!!

I just used some of the same paint to redo my BH case. For some reason in the middle of painting it started to come out in faster. Looks like poop but oh well. We can compare our crappy rattle can jobs at CJ.

I had a go with hammered paint in the past. To get a good looking hammered look you need to spray rather heavily to the point of it looking wet/shiny. Multiple light coats did not work for me, it looked like poop. The only problem then becomes trying not to cross the fine line where you get runs in the paint.

It also took days to cure/harden. You have to be careful not to ding it up meanwhile.

Edited May 24, 200917 yr by Looser101
Added info.

I used to mod computer cases, and in doing so I used a lot of hammered spray paint.

I came to the same conclusion as looser101. I found that one heavy coat works much better than multiple light ones. I also agree that a few days drying time is needed.

This goes against conventional wisdom for normal spray paint, but this isn't normal spray paint.

I have a par metal 20 series slimline case I need to paint so I got some primer today and will be using a metallic dark gray enamel paint to make it look sexy with a wood front. So I'll see how that goes and let you know the results.

It needs to be clarified if you guys are using Rustoleum or Krylon. They both seem to be a bit different in how they react with the previous layers to get the hammered look right, and how much needs to be applied per coat.

The Rustoleum stuff does seem to take forever to dry. (and I don't much care for it) I have had better luck with Krylon by far.

I have both but agree, Krylon is quick drying and pretty good. Rustolium is slower and the look is a bit rough.

The Krylon gloss lacquer is also damn nice. Stinks to high heaven but very nice finish and tough as old boots too

Ok, I finished painting the case. I used Velspar primer and metallic spray and finished off with Deft lacquer to make it semi-shiny. Seems pretty nice. Fast drying and good coverage.

Wood trim is Orange Agate.

Wow, very nice! Looks very much like an OEM job, well I guess there is hope for me if I ever try to DIY again.

It needs to be clarified if you guys are using Rustoleum or Krylon. They both seem to be a bit different in how they react with the previous layers to get the hammered look right, and how much needs to be applied per coat.

The Rustoleum stuff does seem to take forever to dry. (and I don't much care for it) I have had better luck with Krylon by far.

No idea, it was store branded.

Looking good Smeggy.

won't that get quite aromatic once it heats up?

The amp is 3/4 built.

Thanks for the help on the paints guys!

The case is holding up well despite my best efforts to knock it about while I P2P the beast. The output caps scratched INSTANTLY while being mounted.

Hopefully the last 2 parts arrive tomorrow or wednesday so I can finish this thing up. McMaster Carr has never failed me before.

won't that get quite aromatic once it heats up?

All of the paints I used said good for 200*f. Should be adequate for a tube amp case (I hope)